Heda (Izu Peninsula)
Izu Peninsula Hotspring Resort: Hotel Isaba in Heda!
Service: A bit stiff but friendly and attentive
Facilities: A bit old-fashioned but clean. Excellent hotspring bathroom
Strong points: Excellent private hotspring bathroom and open-air hotspring bath with great view on the sea. Excellent breakfast
The best time to check in a hotel in Heda is at sunset when you can admire the sinking sun over the horizon from your windows!
It is the more striking when you squid fishing boat cutting the sea under a sinking flaming orb!
Hotel Isaba is one of the most popular hotspring resort hotels in Heda, Izu Peninsula, thanks to its location overlooking the great sea expanses.
One can choose a room Japanese-style or Western-style.
The hotel is a bit kitsch and definitely from another age but comfortable with all amenities.
The better rooms have a nice, if small, kind of terrace opened onto a great sea landscape.
Cozy place to enjoy a drink or a book in summer!
The private hotspring bath, small by Western standards is big and deep enough for two adults!
Like the terrace it opens onto a sea landscape particularly striking at dusk and dawn!
The dinner served inside your room over a table large enough for 4 adults is a big affair!
Complimentary home-made blueberry aperitif.
Live abalone you grill by yourself after listening to the maid’s instructions!
It’s dancing over the fire!
Chyawanmushi/Japanese hot salted pudding and Japanese pickles.
Mishima Pork shabu shabu.
Sashimi plate from Suruga Bay!
Simmered « Medai » seabream and taro.
« Menuke » fish Sautee.
Plenty of rice and miso soup!
The specialty of the house: Suruga Bay sea-salt sorbet!
Wake up early enough in the morning to enjoy a great ocean view!
And catch the sight of the returning squid fishing boats!
And then first pay a visit to the large hotspring bath on top of the hotel!
Don’t forget to scrub yourself before taking a dip!
Large bay windows will allow you to enjoy a great view again at the same time.
But your hotspring experience will not be complete with another body-relaxing dip in the « rotenburo/open-air bath » outside the main bathroom whatever the season or weather!
A great souvenir picture!
Breakfast is simply enormous and should last you half a day!
And very healthy too with local ingredients!
Horse mackerel from Suruga Bay.
All kinds of tidbits to accompany the rice, and a little dessert.
Tamagoyaki, Sweet and sour tofu, pickles and crab miso soup.
And plenty of rice, the traditional way!
400-3402, Shizuoka Ken, Numazu Shi, Heda, Bihama Kaigan, 3878-20
Shizuoka Touristic Spot: Heda in Izu Peninsula!
Heda, a harbor tucked away inside an almost closed cove is the epitome of what Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture has best to offer to any tourist, be he/she Japanese or from distant shores!
-A resort off the beaten tracks.
-A spa renowned for its thermal hot springs.
-A major fishing harbor part of Numazu City, one of the main providers of seafood to Tokyo.
-Arguably one of the best spots to admire Mount Fuji in the whole of Japan!
-A gastronomic venture with its deep-sea fish and marine life including the largest crab in the world, Takaashigani/高足蟹/Japanese Spider Crab!
-History: It was visited in 1854 by the Russian frigate Diana of the Imperial Russian Navy, the flagship of the Russian explorer Yevfimy Putyatin when it was damaged in a tsunami, following the powerful Ansei-Tōkai earthquake of 23 December 1854. The Diana sank while sailing from Shimoda to Heda for repairs!
Board in front of the tiny but extremely useful Heda Tourist Bureau.
Before I can extol on the reasons to visit the village let me explain the easy access:
Go down at Mishima JR Station (Shinkasen Bullet Train Stop) and proceed to the neighboring Izu Hakone Line Station (right of the Mishima JR Station South Exit). Board the local train/Izu Hakone Line to Shyuzenji (30 minutes, 510 yen). Take a bus from Shyuzenji Station, terminal No 6 to Heda (54 minutes, 1,000 yen).
The bus will reach Heda just beside the Tourist Bureau you ought to visit to get as much information and as many pamphlets as possible from the very kind staff!
First of all, Heda is a paradise for photographers, amateur and professional alike, who can take innumerable shots of Mount Fuji from various view spots all year round as the sacred mountain is changing its robes daily!
In Autumn, one may sight Mount Fuji as a dark and mysterious figure shrouded in mists looming beyond the sea.
Sometimes it does look as surging out blue expanses!
At dusk it will be blurred out of the sky by magnificent sunsets irreverently crossed by returning squid fishing boats!
Once you have managed to take your eyes off Mount Fuji you will realize that the cove itself is also worth clicking away all day long!
In the middle of November the surrounding mountains will explode into autumnal colors and the first snow will don a cap to the faraway Mount Fuji!
But before you linger on the inside beach let me take to the tiny Shipyard and Suruga Bay Deep-Sea Museum past the old lighthouse!
It is an old and almost decrepit building, the more when you realize that the various monuments left and donated by the Soviet Government date back to 1947!
But the entrance fee is a mere 200 yen as the Museum is managed by the City!
The largest crab in the world, Takaashigani, almost 3 meters from leg tip to leg tip!
The Museum is divided into two distinct parts, the Shipyard & Suruga Bay Deep-sea Hall on the lower level and the upper level dedicated to Yevfimy Putyatin and his frigate Diana.
A real Sakegashira, a variety of deep-sea mahi mahi, even bigger than the Japanese Spider Crabs!
Most of the displays were donated by local fishermen or well-wishers. All names of fishermen, places and dates of catch are clearly indicated!
Tasmanian Giant Crab, the crab with the largest body (legs not included) in the world!
Crabs out of the deeps…
Spiders of the deeps…?
Hands off me, guys! (I know that I’m tasty!)
A ghost of the deeps…?
Sharks of the deeps…
They call that critter from the deeps a fan globefish!
For the marine history buffs!
Walking from the Museum towards the inlet you will go past the small quaint Shinto Shrine Maorokuchi Jinjya/諸口神社!
Keep walking under the pines and you will find the sacred shrine portal/torii/鳥居/ overlooking the inlet. Needless to say that the shrine is there to protect the fishermen and their families!
In summer that small pine forest is a welcome haven from the hot sun!
Away from the summer bathers, fishing buffs enjoy the day on the small pier in front of the shrine portal!
A last picture of Mount Fuji before walking back along the beach!
The shrine portal as it looks from inside the cove!
The beach is a great promenade out of season (I mean the bathing season!)!
Calm blue and beautiful waters away from the rough seas!
A monster from the deeps…? Utsubo/ウツボ/Moray eel!
A Nessie monster for the kids!
One can walk all the way to the center of Heda past fishing boats!
A squid-fishing boat! Red squids are a delicacy abundant in the Suruga Bay waters. The boats go at sea at night only.
Time to go back to our hot springs hotel! (next article!)
HEDA TOURISM ASSOCIATION & BUREAU
410-3402 Shizuoka Prefecture, Numazu City, Heda, 289-12