Local fish: “Houbou”/Blue Fin Robin

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A couple days ago, my good friend Patrick Harrington rightly pointed out on the importance to eat “local” as much as possible. Consequently, I will endeavour whenever possible to introduce any vegetables, dairy products, meat and fish grown, made, raised or caught in Shizuoka Prefecture (and its waters)
As for today I would like to introduce a fairly cheap and tasty fish: houbou. Its English name is quite poetic: blue fin robin (“Chelidonichthys spinosus” for the purists)
Some call it grotesque, others beautiful. It earned its name because of it darkish red colour and bluish fins.
Most of them are found in Niigata Prefecture from in Winter (30~50 cm), but they are caught in early Spring in Suruga Bay (the Shizuoka variety is smaller, up to 20 cm).

It can be prepared in many ways:

Sashimi and sushi if just caught

In “nabe” (soup pot) or as “nimono” (simmered) in Japanese-style cuisine.

Steamed and served with a sweet and sour sauce in Chinese-style food.

My preferred way is Mediterranean style (one fish per person):
Cut the side fins and scrape the scales off. Clean the insides. Make a couple of shallow incisions over each flank.
Fill the stomach with a mixture of finely chopped vegetables and herbs (leave your imagination free!).
Put it on a large sheet of olive oil coated cooking foil paper, sprinkle it with a little salt and pepper. Place vegetables cut in long strings on both sides (plenty is fine), and one or two thin lemoon slices on top. Coat it with some (not too much) extra virgin oil. As a last touch, I add some white wine and a little anise spirit (Pernod, Ricard or Absinthe).
Lossely envelop the fish with the foil paper, close both ends by twisting them around.
Place the fish in its foil paer directly on the metal plate inside an preheated at 180 degrees Celsius and cook for about 15 minutes (longer for large fish).
If you do not have an oven, steam it the Chinese way!

Il y a quelques jour, mon ami Patrick Harrington m’a indiqué avec justesse la nécessité de manger autant local que possible. Dans cette optique je vais essayer de présenter autant que possible la richesse de l’agriculture, la pisciculture et l’élevage à Shizuoka.

Pour commencer je voudrais parler du houbou, le grondin rouge, bon marché et très goûteux poisson. Certains disent qu’il est grotesque alors que d’autres le considèrent comme plutôt joli. Son nom anglais  “blue fin robin” vient de ses ailerons bleutés et sa couleur rouge foncé. La plupart d’entre eux se pêchent en hiver dans le département de Niigata (30~50 cm), mais à Shizuoka et dans la baie de Suruga, une plus petite espèce se pêche et elle mesure vers les 20 cm).

On peut le cuisiner de plusieurs façons : En sashimi si il est encore tout frais, dans un “nabe” (une sorte de pot-au-feu japonais), en “nimono” (mariné) à la japonaise. On le trouve aussi cuit vapeur avec une sauce aigre-douce de style chinois.

Je conseille personnellement la version méditerranéenne (1 poisson par personne) : Coupez les ailerons latéraux, et dépouillez le de ses écailles, retirez les entrailles et nettoyez. Incisez le ensuite sur les flancs.

Remplissez son ventre avec un mélanger de légumes hachés finement et d’herbes selon votre bon goût !

Mettez-le ensuite sur une large feuille d’aluminium recouverte d’huile d’olive, salez et poivrez-le. Découpez des légumes dans leur longueur et déposez-les aux côtés du poisson (ayez la main lourde si vous le voulez!), ajoutez aussi deux trois fines tranches de citron dessus.

Pour le final recouvrez-le d’un peu d’huile d’olive et d’alcool d’anis (Pernod, Ricard ou Absinthe).

Fermez ensuite la papillotte d’aluminium en nouant ses deux bords . Mettez le poisson au four sur une plaque de métal préchauffée à 180 degrés pendant 15 minutes (voire plus selon la taille du poisson).

Si vous n’avez pas de four je recommande alors la préparation dite “à la chinoise “!

3 thoughts on “Local fish: “Houbou”/Blue Fin Robin”

  1. I don’t know. What I do know is that Czech families eat it fried (yuk) on the 24th with potato salad. In the dark days it was also a treat to open a bottle of Coca Cola! …Merry Christmas Comrade!

    Last year we made fish cakes as a nod to the tradition. Spiced up with corriander and chilli and served with a dip. Boeuf en Croute (Beef Wellington) was the main course.

    I adore Normandy fish soup with croutons + rich sauce (name cannot recall). The Japanese soups are more delicate I imagine.

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  2. Dear Absintheur!
    Greetings!
    I tend to cook all white-fleshed fish this way!
    They do have the same Christmas Carp tradition in Poland, too, haven’t they? Or is it common to all Central and Eastern Europe?
    Cheers,
    Robert-Gilles

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  3. “I add some white wine and a little anise spirit (Pernod, Ricard or Absinthe)”

    Lucky fish! I think the foil method of cooking fish like this one is best. I am assuming that apart from the complimentary infusion, we also have a fish that delivers moist flesh easily from the bone. Czech carp which is a Christmas “delicacy” (allegedly) is sometimes cooked like this nowadays, but served with a disapointing potato salad. The streets of Prague at Christmas run with carp blood.. they are kept in barrels and are finished off at street level on a slab.

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