Tag Archives: Burgundy

French Gastronomy: Cooking with Bros in Chalon Sur Saone, Bourgogne, Part 1

Bro’s Carbonara Tagliatelle!

During my (very short) holiday back home in Chalon Sur Saone, Bourgogne, neither the Missus or I had to worry about cooking!
We enjoyed our meals either at hotels, restaurants or in one of my two brothers’ homes!
My first brother is actually a professional chef whereas my second brother is a chef as a hobby (he goes as far as attending cooking school in spite of his vast experience!).

On the last day of our stay he cooked a “simple dinner” for the four of us, while we were enjoying (a) drink(s).
It was a pretty typical affair with many culinary influences.

Bro had an excellent idea for appetizers/tidbits to go with aperitifs and drinks while waiting for dinner to start.
Small round tomatoes first dipped in caramel sauce (just sugar, water and lemon brought to a boil and to a thin brown color before switching off the fire) and then coated with golden sesame seeds!
Interestingly enough they don’t seem to have black roasted sesame seeds in France…

The French, especially in Burgundy and Bresse, cannot spend a day without eating a big lettuce and vegetable salad every day!

So Bro served us an appetizer consisting of fresh local lettuce seasoned with his own dressing (had no time to check the recipe) and a “small” (we were taking the plane the following morning!) portion of his pork and pistacchio terrine out of a dish holding at leat 2 kg of it!

Bro loves his pasta and the Missus who is a pastaholic was certainly happy to learn that he makes all his own pasta!

He certainly has all the gear needed!
The pasta is first kneaded and left in the refrigerator for at least 3~4 hours before being prepared!

He used the kitchen table on which we ate later as a work table (after cleaning it, wiping it and sprinkled it with flour!)!

The streched pasta ready to be cut into smaller pieces and then passed through the machine to make tagliatelle!

Work made so easy!

The fresh tagliatelle ready to be boiled! Only 4 minutes!

The Tagliatelle Carbonara!
The sauce had been made the night before as it is easy to preserve and saved a lot of time!
Sorry, no recipe made available!

For dessert a fine apple tart made with thin pastry sheets, fresh apples and a minimum of sugar and spices!

To be continued…

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES

Tokyo Food File by Robbie Swinnerton, Green Tea Club by Satoshi Nihonyanagi in Shizuoka!, Mind Some by Tina in Taiwan, Le Manger by Camille Oger (French), The Indian Tourist, Masala Herb by Helene Dsouza in Goa, India, Mummy I Can Cook! by Shu Han in London, Pierre.Cuisine, Francescannotwrite, My White Kitchen, 47 Japanese Farms Through The Eyes of Its Rural Communities, Foodhoe, Chucks Eats, Things that Fizz & Stuff, Five Euro Food by Charles,Red Shallot Kitchen by Priscilla,With a Glass, Nami | Just One Cookbook, Peach Farm Studio, Clumsyfingers by Xethia, PepperBento,Adventures in Bento Making, American Bent, Beanbento, Bento No, Bento Wo Tsukurimashou, Cooking Cute, Eula, Hapabento , Happy Bento, Jacki’s Bento Blog, Kitchen Cow, Leggo My Obento, Le Petit Journal Bento & CO (French), Lunch In A Box,
Susan at Arkonlite, Vegan Lunch Box; Tokyo Tom Baker, Daily Food Porn/Osaka, Only Nature Food Porn, Happy Little Bento, The Herbed Kitchen, J-Mama’s Kitchen, Cook, Eat, Play, Repeat, Bento Lunch Blog (German), Adventures In Bento, Anna The Red’s Bento Factory, Cooking Cute, Timeless Gourmet, Bento Bug, Ideal Meal, Bentosaurus, Mr. Foodie (London/UK), Ohayo Bento,

Must-see tasting websites:

-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen, Warren Bobrow, Cellar Tours, Ancient Fire Wines Blog
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!, Beering In Good Mind: All about Craft Beer in kanzai by Nevitt Reagan!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

Tourism Off the Beaten Tracks in France: Chalon Sur Saone (June 2012) Part 1

Ancient houses, bars and cafes around Saint Vincent Square in front of Saint Vicent Cathedral.

In spite of being the second town in Bourgogne/Burgundy, France, Chalon sur Saone does not receive the acclaim it deserves. It is by far the oldest city of importance in Bourgogne as its river harbor and markets date back centuries before the Rommans invaded Gaul.
Did you know that it is also the birthplace of photography where Nicephore Niepce invented the first camera and took the first picture ever?
It is also the best protected gastronomic treasure of France. Just visit the Rue de Strasbourg with its 30+ restaurants in the Saint Laurent island surrounded by the Saone River and taste the great wines of the Cote Chalonnaise!
It being a very compact city it is so easy to discover at a leisurely pace.
Here are some photos taken during my trip back home (this is my hometown!)!

The gothic Saint Vincent Cathedral.

There are many ways and routes to visit the city.
But I always start with the old town located very near the Saone River and just wander round and round often retracing my steps back as many more opportunities for photography offer themselves!

Some of the well-preserved facades are over 600 hundred years old!

You will discover the latest fashions inside cute boutiques under the same facades!

No need to go and spend millions in Paris!
There you will find and buy what French ladies (and gentlemen!) really wear and at more attractive prices!
Chalon sur Saone and its suburbs house more than 100,000 souls and some major industries such as Areva and so on, meaning it is a major stop along the paris-Lyon-Marseille route where many businessmen form all over the world have to meet!

A old Burgundian roof out of nowhere…

A back street in the early afternoon…

Another back street…

A “trompe l’oeil” facade…

The oldest standing fully preserved building in town, a tower dating back to the early Middle Ages (over 1.000 years old)…

Oe can explore the back streets reserved for pedestrians for hidden shops and boutiques…

One can easily get a sore neck with all the photography subjects…

So many angles to shoot from…

Searching for gargoyles…

Such facades in “colombage” are all registered cultural assets and impossible to reproduce…

Come and sit at one of the cafe terraces around the Saint Vincent Square on a bright day…

People have been living there for the last 6 centuries…

There is still a Roman wall over 2,000 years old standing!

There are Irish Pubs for the thirsty!

if you want a quickand delicious fix you must try this baker!

Did you know that frog legs is a gastronomic specialty of the region?
But that’s for the next report!

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES

Tokyo Food File by Robbie Swinnerton, Green Tea Club by Satoshi Nihonyanagi in Shizuoka!, Mind Some by Tina in Taiwan, Le Manger by Camille Oger (French), The Indian Tourist, Masala Herb by Helene Dsouza in Goa, India, Mummy I Can Cook! by Shu Han in London, Pierre.Cuisine, Francescannotwrite, My White Kitchen, 47 Japanese Farms Through The Eyes of Its Rural Communities, Foodhoe, Chucks Eats, Things that Fizz & Stuff, Five Euro Food by Charles,Red Shallot Kitchen by Priscilla,With a Glass, Nami | Just One Cookbook, Peach Farm Studio, Clumsyfingers by Xethia, PepperBento,Adventures in Bento Making, American Bent, Beanbento, Bento No, Bento Wo Tsukurimashou, Cooking Cute, Eula, Hapabento , Happy Bento, Jacki’s Bento Blog, Kitchen Cow, Leggo My Obento, Le Petit Journal Bento & CO (French), Lunch In A Box,
Susan at Arkonlite, Vegan Lunch Box; Tokyo Tom Baker, Daily Food Porn/Osaka, Only Nature Food Porn, Happy Little Bento, The Herbed Kitchen, J-Mama’s Kitchen, Cook, Eat, Play, Repeat, Bento Lunch Blog (German), Adventures In Bento, Anna The Red’s Bento Factory, Cooking Cute, Timeless Gourmet, Bento Bug, Ideal Meal, Bentosaurus, Mr. Foodie (London/UK), Ohayo Bento,

Must-see tasting websites:

-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen, Warren Bobrow, Cellar Tours, Ancient Fire Wines Blog
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!, Beering In Good Mind: All about Craft Beer in kanzai by Nevitt Reagan!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

Gastronomic Destinations: France (2)


The Japan Blog List

Please check the new postings at:
sake, shochu and sushi

—————————————-
日本語のブログ
—————————————-

Saint-Martin du Mont: Restaurant L’Auberge du Moulin

If you want to get yourself lost in some unknown confines of Bourgogne/Burgundy, live the slow life and savour real traditional food at ridiculously low prices, I would strongly recommend you to discover the minuscule city of Saint-Martin du Mont lost in the middle of Bresse east of Louhans, a region which has given its name to the most famous cicken in the World.


If you opt for a set course you have a choice between three dishes for 15 Euros or four dishes from 20 Euros. Children can have their own menu for 8 Euros!


Wines at the Auberge du Moulin are mainly from the Cote Chalonnaise, probably the best value when it comes to Bourgogne wines. We were quite a few for lunch on a Saturday and we opted for a succulent Givry !er Cru (my own village!), La Renarde, Clos du Cellier aux Moines, Red, 2004.
The perfect wine to go with some really hearty food we ordered:


“Jambon persille au vin de Chablis”/Ham in its own jelly containing parsley and Chablis wine. The Chef, Jean-Jacques Martineau who practically works on his own in his kitchen, makes his own ham from local pigs! A typical Burgundian hors d’oeuvres ( a main dish in many homes!)!


“Terrine au poivre vert”/Green pepper terrine. When you see such a big hors d’oeuvres sitting on the table in front of you, you start wandering if you will be able to go through the whole meal!


“Oeufs Meurette”/Poached eggs served in red wine and mushrooms sauce a garlicked toast. Break the eggs in the sauce first! Another typical Burgundian dish!


“Meli-melo d’escargots et moules, sauce au Roquefort”/Marriage of snails and mussles in Roquefort blue cheese sauce. When sea meets land under the benediction of a ewe!


“Rognons de veau”/Veal Kidneys. Tender and juicy in the perfect cognac and cream sauce. An acquired taste? I did not personally oredered it, but I certainly would not mind!


“Cuisses de Grenouilles”/Froglegs. Another Burgundian specialty with a little accent from the South. Sauteed in olive oil, you eat them with your fingers!


“Cassolette de Saint-Jacques au Noilly Prat”/Scallops in Noilly Prat and cream sauce with a crawfish! Another meeting between land (river, actually!) and sea!


“Salade bressane”/Bresse salad. A very local (we are in the heart of Bresse) hors d’oeuvres which makes for a real meal at home: Ggeens, bacon, poached egg, chicken liver and garlicked toast.


“Nous v’la Bien-Quasi de porc mitonne avec un duo de champignons bolets at cepes dans un veloute de cidre legerement creme, accompagne de pommes de terre vapeur”/pork stewed with mushrooms, cider, cream and accompanied with steamed potatoes.
We could not resist the “Cocottes bressanes”/Bresse pots. This is a traditional way of cooking which dates back to many centuries ago!


“Dix sept a point-Jambon de porc fume par nos soins et cuit dans du vin de la cote chalonnaise avec lardons et champignons, accompagne de pommes de terre vapeur”/home-smoked ham and cooked in cote chalonnaise wine with bacon and mushrooms, served with steamed potatoes.


“Travers de porc laque/lacquered pork”. A dish that would tempt the likes of Foodhoe and Gaijin Tonic!


“Profiteroles au chocolat”, a dessert that would start Bill cooking!


Absolutely enormous “Creme brulee flambee!”


“Baba au rhum”. This was my dessert! I had almost to be towed out, as full as I was!

L’Auberge du Moulin
71580, SAINT MARTIN DU MONT, France
TEL 0385740233

Gastronomic Destinations: France (1)


The Japan Blog List

Please check the new postings at:
sake, shochu and sushi

—————————————-
日本語のブログ
—————————————-


(Cote Chalonnaise Vineyard/Givry)

Chalon Sur Saone: Restaurant L’Essentiel

Chalon sur Saone in Bourgogne/Burgundy, France, has given its name to the Appelation Cote Chalonnaise, which, cent for cent, has become better value than some overblown Bourgogne vintages. Actually, the city itself stands a good 10 km away from the first vineyards. That might explain why Chalon Sur Saone was rarely mentioned in gastronomic guides until recently.
It certainly was a pity as the very central position of the city gave it the best access to all food ingredients that have made Bourgogne so famous.

But then, about ten years ago, the trend completely changed. The reason is the Saint-Laurent Island in the very middle of the very wide Saone River within easy reach thanks to the bridge of the same name.

Its main street, Rue de Strasbourg suddenly became the place to eat and drink out because of its great tranquility away from the bustling centre. The street presently counts more than twenty restaurants of all kinds.
I’m particularly fond of L’Essntiel, which as its name indicates, serves generous plates of very traditional but precise Burgundian gastronomy. And this at very reasonable prices.
The last time I went there was in the company of five of my siblings and the Missus, which allowed to sample quite a few of their offerings made the more tempting by the genuine friendliness of the owners and staff:

Seabass on a bed of apples and pears.

“Sandre” fish with a potato “curtain”.

Veal Sweetbreads, my personal order. Enormous, but so nice and cruchy outside and so tender inside!

Beef Fillet with baked tomatoes and couscous. This pic does not justice to the real size of the fillet. It was certainly twice a big and as high at the very large tomatoes!

Roasted Duck with its liver and heart.

Escargots with echalottes and garlic confits.
Sorry, after that, I just either could not find the time to take picture,s or I wasn’t “allowed” to do so by my so-friendly siblings.
But have no worry, it will take you quite a few visits to sample everything! And do not forget the desserts!
And the wine list!

Incidentally, Chalon Sur Saone, apart of its very long history as the last port up the Saone River for the last 2,500 years is renown for one very important invention. Can you guess?
-The first-ever picture and camera you can see at the Musee Nicephore Niepce which contains more than two million pictures!

L’Essentiel
14, Rue Strasbourg
71100 Chalon sur Saône, France
Tel: (33)(0)3 85 42 95 75‎