Tag Archives: Bourgogne

French Gastronomy: Cooking with Bros in Chalon Sur Saone, Bourgogne, Part 1

Bro’s Carbonara Tagliatelle!

During my (very short) holiday back home in Chalon Sur Saone, Bourgogne, neither the Missus or I had to worry about cooking!
We enjoyed our meals either at hotels, restaurants or in one of my two brothers’ homes!
My first brother is actually a professional chef whereas my second brother is a chef as a hobby (he goes as far as attending cooking school in spite of his vast experience!).

On the last day of our stay he cooked a “simple dinner” for the four of us, while we were enjoying (a) drink(s).
It was a pretty typical affair with many culinary influences.

Bro had an excellent idea for appetizers/tidbits to go with aperitifs and drinks while waiting for dinner to start.
Small round tomatoes first dipped in caramel sauce (just sugar, water and lemon brought to a boil and to a thin brown color before switching off the fire) and then coated with golden sesame seeds!
Interestingly enough they don’t seem to have black roasted sesame seeds in France…

The French, especially in Burgundy and Bresse, cannot spend a day without eating a big lettuce and vegetable salad every day!

So Bro served us an appetizer consisting of fresh local lettuce seasoned with his own dressing (had no time to check the recipe) and a “small” (we were taking the plane the following morning!) portion of his pork and pistacchio terrine out of a dish holding at leat 2 kg of it!

Bro loves his pasta and the Missus who is a pastaholic was certainly happy to learn that he makes all his own pasta!

He certainly has all the gear needed!
The pasta is first kneaded and left in the refrigerator for at least 3~4 hours before being prepared!

He used the kitchen table on which we ate later as a work table (after cleaning it, wiping it and sprinkled it with flour!)!

The streched pasta ready to be cut into smaller pieces and then passed through the machine to make tagliatelle!

Work made so easy!

The fresh tagliatelle ready to be boiled! Only 4 minutes!

The Tagliatelle Carbonara!
The sauce had been made the night before as it is easy to preserve and saved a lot of time!
Sorry, no recipe made available!

For dessert a fine apple tart made with thin pastry sheets, fresh apples and a minimum of sugar and spices!

To be continued…

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES

Tokyo Food File by Robbie Swinnerton, Green Tea Club by Satoshi Nihonyanagi in Shizuoka!, Mind Some by Tina in Taiwan, Le Manger by Camille Oger (French), The Indian Tourist, Masala Herb by Helene Dsouza in Goa, India, Mummy I Can Cook! by Shu Han in London, Pierre.Cuisine, Francescannotwrite, My White Kitchen, 47 Japanese Farms Through The Eyes of Its Rural Communities, Foodhoe, Chucks Eats, Things that Fizz & Stuff, Five Euro Food by Charles,Red Shallot Kitchen by Priscilla,With a Glass, Nami | Just One Cookbook, Peach Farm Studio, Clumsyfingers by Xethia, PepperBento,Adventures in Bento Making, American Bent, Beanbento, Bento No, Bento Wo Tsukurimashou, Cooking Cute, Eula, Hapabento , Happy Bento, Jacki’s Bento Blog, Kitchen Cow, Leggo My Obento, Le Petit Journal Bento & CO (French), Lunch In A Box,
Susan at Arkonlite, Vegan Lunch Box; Tokyo Tom Baker, Daily Food Porn/Osaka, Only Nature Food Porn, Happy Little Bento, The Herbed Kitchen, J-Mama’s Kitchen, Cook, Eat, Play, Repeat, Bento Lunch Blog (German), Adventures In Bento, Anna The Red’s Bento Factory, Cooking Cute, Timeless Gourmet, Bento Bug, Ideal Meal, Bentosaurus, Mr. Foodie (London/UK), Ohayo Bento,

Must-see tasting websites:

-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen, Warren Bobrow, Cellar Tours, Ancient Fire Wines Blog
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!, Beering In Good Mind: All about Craft Beer in kanzai by Nevitt Reagan!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

Tourism Off the Beaten Tracks in France: Chalon Sur Saone (June 2012) Part 1

Ancient houses, bars and cafes around Saint Vincent Square in front of Saint Vicent Cathedral.

In spite of being the second town in Bourgogne/Burgundy, France, Chalon sur Saone does not receive the acclaim it deserves. It is by far the oldest city of importance in Bourgogne as its river harbor and markets date back centuries before the Rommans invaded Gaul.
Did you know that it is also the birthplace of photography where Nicephore Niepce invented the first camera and took the first picture ever?
It is also the best protected gastronomic treasure of France. Just visit the Rue de Strasbourg with its 30+ restaurants in the Saint Laurent island surrounded by the Saone River and taste the great wines of the Cote Chalonnaise!
It being a very compact city it is so easy to discover at a leisurely pace.
Here are some photos taken during my trip back home (this is my hometown!)!

The gothic Saint Vincent Cathedral.

There are many ways and routes to visit the city.
But I always start with the old town located very near the Saone River and just wander round and round often retracing my steps back as many more opportunities for photography offer themselves!

Some of the well-preserved facades are over 600 hundred years old!

You will discover the latest fashions inside cute boutiques under the same facades!

No need to go and spend millions in Paris!
There you will find and buy what French ladies (and gentlemen!) really wear and at more attractive prices!
Chalon sur Saone and its suburbs house more than 100,000 souls and some major industries such as Areva and so on, meaning it is a major stop along the paris-Lyon-Marseille route where many businessmen form all over the world have to meet!

A old Burgundian roof out of nowhere…

A back street in the early afternoon…

Another back street…

A “trompe l’oeil” facade…

The oldest standing fully preserved building in town, a tower dating back to the early Middle Ages (over 1.000 years old)…

Oe can explore the back streets reserved for pedestrians for hidden shops and boutiques…

One can easily get a sore neck with all the photography subjects…

So many angles to shoot from…

Searching for gargoyles…

Such facades in “colombage” are all registered cultural assets and impossible to reproduce…

Come and sit at one of the cafe terraces around the Saint Vincent Square on a bright day…

People have been living there for the last 6 centuries…

There is still a Roman wall over 2,000 years old standing!

There are Irish Pubs for the thirsty!

if you want a quickand delicious fix you must try this baker!

Did you know that frog legs is a gastronomic specialty of the region?
But that’s for the next report!

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES

Tokyo Food File by Robbie Swinnerton, Green Tea Club by Satoshi Nihonyanagi in Shizuoka!, Mind Some by Tina in Taiwan, Le Manger by Camille Oger (French), The Indian Tourist, Masala Herb by Helene Dsouza in Goa, India, Mummy I Can Cook! by Shu Han in London, Pierre.Cuisine, Francescannotwrite, My White Kitchen, 47 Japanese Farms Through The Eyes of Its Rural Communities, Foodhoe, Chucks Eats, Things that Fizz & Stuff, Five Euro Food by Charles,Red Shallot Kitchen by Priscilla,With a Glass, Nami | Just One Cookbook, Peach Farm Studio, Clumsyfingers by Xethia, PepperBento,Adventures in Bento Making, American Bent, Beanbento, Bento No, Bento Wo Tsukurimashou, Cooking Cute, Eula, Hapabento , Happy Bento, Jacki’s Bento Blog, Kitchen Cow, Leggo My Obento, Le Petit Journal Bento & CO (French), Lunch In A Box,
Susan at Arkonlite, Vegan Lunch Box; Tokyo Tom Baker, Daily Food Porn/Osaka, Only Nature Food Porn, Happy Little Bento, The Herbed Kitchen, J-Mama’s Kitchen, Cook, Eat, Play, Repeat, Bento Lunch Blog (German), Adventures In Bento, Anna The Red’s Bento Factory, Cooking Cute, Timeless Gourmet, Bento Bug, Ideal Meal, Bentosaurus, Mr. Foodie (London/UK), Ohayo Bento,

Must-see tasting websites:

-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen, Warren Bobrow, Cellar Tours, Ancient Fire Wines Blog
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!, Beering In Good Mind: All about Craft Beer in kanzai by Nevitt Reagan!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

Spanish Wine Bar Hagu in Shizuoka City!

Service: Friendly and easy-going
Equipment: Very clean overall. Superb washroom
Prices: Reasonable
Strong points: Great use of local products, vegetables, meat and fish in Japanese and foreign cuisines.

For the pleasure of the denizens of Shizuoka City the present trend seems to be in favor of wine bars!
I totally agree with it because, although I love my Japanese sake, I do also appreciate wine (normal since I hail from Bourgogne!)!

TAITA CORPORATION, already owning such establishments as Budo no Oka Restaurants, opened this new wine bar/bistro on January 17th and it is already pretty much crowded!

The concept is quite interesting with a relatively discreet entrance I discovered when I visited it for the first time in the company of a group of chefs and producers!

The atmosphere is very reminiscent of a cellar bar/restaurant in southern Europe!

Naturally, plenty of wines, Japanese and foreign at reasonable prices!

Superb raw hams from Spain!

Plenty of local vegetables, quite a few of them organic!

Chef Koushin Saita/才田享辰 and Manager Yusuke Kondo/近藤雄介!

Japanese pink Cremant!

Now, what did our merry band sample on that day?
Plenty of wines which I hope to describe in another blog!

Broccoli and carrot mousse in olive oil to help us wait for the first dish!

Parmegiano cheese on fresh cress!

Mixed starters including Spanish raw ham, French-style terrine de campagne and various salads!

Organic vegetables (the strawberries are also organic, all from Shizen no Chikara Farm in Shizuoka City!) served with a banya cauda dressing!

Sauteed mushrooms on savory toasts!

Spanish-style seafood hotpot!

Grilled Mangenton Pork on a beautiful bed of fresh vegetables!

Great grilled beef atop savory fried potaoes!
I must give a special mark to those fried potatoes!

Vegetables fritters/tempura to finish!

We just didn’t have any space left for desserts (I will check that next time!)!

To be continued…

WINE BAR HAGU
420-0031 Shizuok City, Aoi Ku, Gofuku-Cho, 2-8-9, Across Tsujihara Bldg, B1F
Tel.: 054-260-5253
Opening hours: 17:30~24:00
Cards OK
HOMEPAGE (Japanese)

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES

Mummy I Can Cook! by Shu Han in London
Pierre.Cuisine, Francescannotwrite, My White Kitchen, 47 Japanese Farms Through The Eyes of Its Rural Communities, Foodhoe, Chucks Eats, Things that Fizz & Stuff, Five Euro Food by Charles,Red Shallot Kitchen by Priscilla,With a Glass, Nami | Just One Cookbook, Peach Farm Studio, Clumsyfingers by Xethia, PepperBento,Adventures in Bento Making, American Bent, Beanbento, Bento No, Bento Wo Tsukurimashou, Cooking Cute, Eula, Hapabento , Happy Bento, Jacki’s Bento Blog, Kitchen Cow, Leggo My Obento, Le Petit Journal Bento & CO (French), Lunch In A Box,
Susan at Arkonlite, Vegan Lunch Box; Tokyo Tom Baker, Daily Food Porn/Osaka, Only Nature Food Porn, Happy Little Bento, The Herbed Kitchen, J-Mama’s Kitchen, Cook, Eat, Play, Repeat, Bento Lunch Blog (German), Adventures In Bento, Anna The Red’s Bento Factory, Cooking Cute, Timeless Gourmet, Bento Bug, Ideal Meal, Bentosaurus, Mr. Foodie (London/UK), Ohayo Bento,

Must-see tasting websites:

-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen, Warren Bobrow, Cellar Tours, Ancient Fire Wines Blog
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

Cheese Plate at Gentil (3)


The Japan Blog List

Please check the new postings at:
sake, shochu and sushi

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gentil-cheese-12-a
(oven dried lotus root, potato and red yam slices)

This is the third installment of a hopefully long series of cheese plates served at Gentil Restaurant in Shizuoka City.
The Cheese Sommelier, Ms. Keiko Kubota is the not only the sole Japanese holding the title of compagnon d’Honneur de Taste Fromage in Japan, but she was asked to choose, prepare and serve the cheeses offered to all these vey improtant people at the G8 Summit held last July in Hokkaido.

gentil-cheese-12-b

Top left: “Yama no Chiizu”/Mountain Cheese (Cow’s milk from “Mitomo Bokujyo” in Hokkaido)
Left bottom: Truffes (Goat’s milk/Provence-France)
Centre top: Gorgonzola Dolce (Cow’s milk/Italy) for Rowena?
Centre Middle: Dry raisins from France and “Sakura”) (cow’s milk/Hokkaido)
Centre Bottom: Vieile Mimolette (France)
Top right: Fourme d’Ambert (Cow’s milk/France)
Right bottom: “Yama no Chiizu”/Mountain Cheese (Cow’s milk from “Mitomo Bokujyo” in Hokkaido)

gentil-cheese-12-c

Additional plate:
Epoisses affine au Chablis (Cow’s milk/France) and Blue Stilton (cow’s milk/Egland)

Restaurant Gentil
Address:420-0031 Shizuoka Shi, Gofuku-cho, 2-9-1, Gennan Kairaku building, 2F
Tel.: 054-2547655 (Reservations advisable)
Fax: 054-2210509
Opening hours: 12:00~14:00, 18:00~last orders for meals at 21:30. Bar time 18:00~23:30. Closed on Mondays.
Credit cards OK
Homepage (Japanese)

French Cuisine: Dinner at Gentil


The Japan Blog List

Please check the new postings at:
sake, shochu and sushi

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gentil-08-11-07-16

At long last, I found the right occasion to enjoy a full dinner at Gentil in Shzuoka City!
This is the oldest and best (with consequent prices) French Restaurant in town and most probably in the whole Prefecture.
Both the Maitre d’Hote, Ms. Keiko Kubota and her assistant, Ms. Keiko Nakagwa are Wine and Cheese Sommeliers of renown in Japan.
As I mentioned before, Ms. Keiko Kubota is the only the sole Japanese holding the title of Compagnon d’Honneur de Taste Fromage in Japan, but she was asked to choose, prepare and serve the cheeses offered to all these vey important people at the G8 Summit held last July in Hokkaido.

I did not bother looking at the menu and left all the choices of food and wines to Ms. Kubota.
gentil-08-11-07-1
As we were only two of us, I requested wine to be served by the glass from fine bottles, a very rare possibility in this country (it is not much of a problem as customers in Gentil drink a lot of wine!)
The first offering was white Bourgogne, Chablis 2006, Louis Latour, La Chanfleure.
I wil spare you the details about wine as I was busy enough jotting down explanations about food. Just that all the wines were chosen to a perfection!

gentil-08-11-07-2
The amuse bouche consisted of a sakura ebi/sakura shrimp (found only in Shizuoka. Expect a hefty bill if you are served them in Tokyo!) Quiche and a gobo/Japanese burdock soup served as a capuccino.
I will spare you from reading lengthy prose on the taste and so on. I just hope you will understand that sometimes savouring is far more important than erring into tart comments!

gentil-08-11-07-3
The first hors d’oeuvre was a marriage of:
gentil-08-11-07-1_0001
Ishidai/snapper sashimi with fried renkon/lotus roots
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Seared (tataki) venison carpaccio topped with fresh and fried Autumn onions.
When land and sea end up in the same fashion on a plate!

gentil-08-11-07-6
The next glass was a white Bourgogne, Macon-Villages, 2007, Les Tilles, Domaine Sainte-Barbe.

gentil-08-11-07-7
The second hors d’oeuvre was Matoya Oyster (considered as the best variety in Japan) slightly sauteed on a bed of spinach.

gentil-08-11-07-8
It was time for our first glass of red wine: Bourgogne again, Saint-Romain, 2005, Sous le Chateau by Pascal Brunion-Bonheur.

gentil-08-11-07-9
Pasta is not the prerogrative of Italians, (as Rowena will agree?) as demonstrated with this cold Kobashira/Round Clam Round Twin Muscles Capellini!

gentil-08-11-07-10
Great fish is plentiful along our coasts as vindicated by this Madai/Madai snapper first sauteed on its skin and then served en nage on top of a succulent vegetables soup.

gentil-08-11-07-11
The next wine saw the apparition of the “enemy” (don’t believe it, I always point out I hail from Bourgogne! I love Bordeaux, too, but don’t tell my family!): Bordeaux Haut-Medoc 2004, Chatau Real.

gentil-08-11-07-12
Time for the Cremant de Bourgogne Granite!
gentil-08-11-07-13
This granite was of a special meaning for me as it was a Cote Chalonnaise wine, my very home: Cremant de bourgogne, Domaine de la Tour Lajole. I do not have to tell you that for once I ate very slowly!

gentil-08-11-07-14
Now, the “main” dish was a rare treat:
Ris de Veau/Sweetbreads and Foie gras both sauteed with a Madeira wine sauce and mushrooms including chanterelles, eringe, and gobo/Japanese burdock. Some people would kill for that single dish!

gentil-08-11-07-15
Before we attacked the Cheese tray featured at the top of this posting (we had a chunk of each!) we were served a (in my case two) glass of Saint-Emilion 1998 (extravagant!) Dassault Grand Cru!

gentil-08-11-07-17
And now the cheese:

Follow the “N”!
Bottom left: Sakura (Swiss Brown Cow’s milk/Hokkaido)
Centre left: Selles sur Cher(Goat’s milk/France)
Top left: Bon de Sologne (Goat’s milk/France)
Top centre: Chevre/Goat Cheddar(Canada!)
Bottom centre: Bleu d’Auvergne (Cow’s milk/France)
Bottom right: Mont d’Or (Cow’s milk/France)
Centre right: Comte Extra (Cow’s milk/France)
Top right: Red Stilton (Cow’s milk/England)

gentil-08-11-07-18
Yes, we had dessert!: Mont Blanc and Cassis Sorbet/Sherbet.

I did have a couple of Banyuls with my coffee, but I gave as far as pics were concerned!
Best dinner of the year!

Restaurant Gentil
Address:420-0031 Shizuoka Shi, Gofuku-cho, 2-9-1, Gennan Kairaku building, 2F
Tel.: 054-2547655 (Reservations advisable)
Fax: 054-2210509
Opening hours: 12:00~14:00, 18:00~last orders for meals at 21:30. Bar time 18:00~23:30. Closed on Mondays.
Credit cards OK
Homepage (Japanese)

Cheese Plate at Gentil (2)


The Japan Blog List

Please check the new postings at:
sake, shochu and sushi

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日本語のブログ
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gentil-cheese-2008-10-31-a1

This is the second installment of a hopefully long series of cheese plates served at Gentil Restaurant in Shizuoka City.
The Cheese Sommelier, Ms. Keiko Kubota is the not only the sole Japanese holding the title of compagnon d’Honneur de Taste Fromage in Japan, but she was asked to choose, prepare and serve the cheeses offered to all these vey improtant people at the G8 Summit held last July in Hokkaido.

This time I was more careful with the picture, and I hope you will see it in a better light!

The cheese featured on the above picture are (from left to right)

-Sakura/from Hokkaido, cow’s milk from a cow breed called Brown Swiss.
-“Murasaki Imo”?viole yam chips
-Craquebitte/France, Loire, goat’s milk
-Crutin/Italy, Piemonte cow’s and ewe’s milk with Piemonte truffles
-Bleu d’Auvergne/France, Auvergne, cow’s milk with dry French muscat raisins.

gentil-cheese-2008-10-31-b

Rowena will be happy to see an Italian cheese, and a great one (it costs a fortune!) featured:
Crutin.

gentil-cheese-2008-10-31-c

As for wine, the cheese was beautifully paired with a 2001 Monthelie (France/Cote d’Or) by Gerard Doreau!

Restaurant Gentil
Address:420-0031 Shizuoka Shi, Gofuku-cho, 2-9-1, Gennan Kairaku building, 2F
Tel.: 054-2547655 (Reservations advisable)
Fax: 054-2210509
Opening hours: 12:00~14:00, 18:00~last orders for meals at 21:30. Bar time 18:00~23:30. Closed on Mondays.
Credit cards OK
Homepage (Japanese)

Gastronomic Destinations: France (2)


The Japan Blog List

Please check the new postings at:
sake, shochu and sushi

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Saint-Martin du Mont: Restaurant L’Auberge du Moulin

If you want to get yourself lost in some unknown confines of Bourgogne/Burgundy, live the slow life and savour real traditional food at ridiculously low prices, I would strongly recommend you to discover the minuscule city of Saint-Martin du Mont lost in the middle of Bresse east of Louhans, a region which has given its name to the most famous cicken in the World.


If you opt for a set course you have a choice between three dishes for 15 Euros or four dishes from 20 Euros. Children can have their own menu for 8 Euros!


Wines at the Auberge du Moulin are mainly from the Cote Chalonnaise, probably the best value when it comes to Bourgogne wines. We were quite a few for lunch on a Saturday and we opted for a succulent Givry !er Cru (my own village!), La Renarde, Clos du Cellier aux Moines, Red, 2004.
The perfect wine to go with some really hearty food we ordered:


“Jambon persille au vin de Chablis”/Ham in its own jelly containing parsley and Chablis wine. The Chef, Jean-Jacques Martineau who practically works on his own in his kitchen, makes his own ham from local pigs! A typical Burgundian hors d’oeuvres ( a main dish in many homes!)!


“Terrine au poivre vert”/Green pepper terrine. When you see such a big hors d’oeuvres sitting on the table in front of you, you start wandering if you will be able to go through the whole meal!


“Oeufs Meurette”/Poached eggs served in red wine and mushrooms sauce a garlicked toast. Break the eggs in the sauce first! Another typical Burgundian dish!


“Meli-melo d’escargots et moules, sauce au Roquefort”/Marriage of snails and mussles in Roquefort blue cheese sauce. When sea meets land under the benediction of a ewe!


“Rognons de veau”/Veal Kidneys. Tender and juicy in the perfect cognac and cream sauce. An acquired taste? I did not personally oredered it, but I certainly would not mind!


“Cuisses de Grenouilles”/Froglegs. Another Burgundian specialty with a little accent from the South. Sauteed in olive oil, you eat them with your fingers!


“Cassolette de Saint-Jacques au Noilly Prat”/Scallops in Noilly Prat and cream sauce with a crawfish! Another meeting between land (river, actually!) and sea!


“Salade bressane”/Bresse salad. A very local (we are in the heart of Bresse) hors d’oeuvres which makes for a real meal at home: Ggeens, bacon, poached egg, chicken liver and garlicked toast.


“Nous v’la Bien-Quasi de porc mitonne avec un duo de champignons bolets at cepes dans un veloute de cidre legerement creme, accompagne de pommes de terre vapeur”/pork stewed with mushrooms, cider, cream and accompanied with steamed potatoes.
We could not resist the “Cocottes bressanes”/Bresse pots. This is a traditional way of cooking which dates back to many centuries ago!


“Dix sept a point-Jambon de porc fume par nos soins et cuit dans du vin de la cote chalonnaise avec lardons et champignons, accompagne de pommes de terre vapeur”/home-smoked ham and cooked in cote chalonnaise wine with bacon and mushrooms, served with steamed potatoes.


“Travers de porc laque/lacquered pork”. A dish that would tempt the likes of Foodhoe and Gaijin Tonic!


“Profiteroles au chocolat”, a dessert that would start Bill cooking!


Absolutely enormous “Creme brulee flambee!”


“Baba au rhum”. This was my dessert! I had almost to be towed out, as full as I was!

L’Auberge du Moulin
71580, SAINT MARTIN DU MONT, France
TEL 0385740233