Tag Archives: フランス料理

For Vegans & Vegetarians! “Forgotten” Vegetables 1: Scorsonere/Oyster Plant

SCORSONERE-1

Organic agriculture and biodiversity have in recent years brought about a rediscovery of many “forgotten” vegetables that people especially in Europe and France conscientiously tried to forget as they reminded them of the privations suffered during WWII. The same people had then to make do with untraditional vegetables because potatoes, carrots and so on were confiscated by occupying forces or their own armies.
With sustainibility and bioagriculture made more important by the deficiencies of modern mass agriculture, those “forgotten” vegetables have suddenly come to the fore for the pleasure of all, and that of course of vegetarians and vegans!

This particular series of postings will introduce these vegetables one by one. I hope they will become useful for a long time to come to all my vegan and vegetarian friends!

SCORSONERE (French)/OYSTER PLANT (English)

SCORSONERE-2

Scorsonere, or oyster plant, is a close cousin of the salsify and even of the burdock root.
The main difference is the dark brown/black colour of its skin.
Their history is the same. They are both found in the wild, especially along the Mediteranean Sea.
Scorsonere lost its popularity mainly because it is a chore to peel them, adde to the fact that the sap tends to stain hands. Moreover, they take a long time to cook.

Scorsonere seeds are planted in March~May in soil, spaced 25 cm from each other. Keep the soil clean leaving only one plant every 10 cm. Keep the soil cool (as opposite to hot and dry). Cover with straw in hot weather. If a flower stem appears, cut it to fortify the root.
The plant can stay up to 3 years in soil.
Soil must must be cool, deep and well manured.
harvest is conducted from October to march according to needs.

SCORSONERE-BEIGNETS
Scorsonere beignets/fritters

Once properly cooked, they are very tender and sweet, reminiscent of oysters as their English name indicates, as well of asparaguses and artichokes.
They are great cold in salads with mayonnaise or vinaigrette, glazed like carrots, deep-fried as beignets, or cooked again with fresh cream, tomato sauce, parmegianno and herbs!

RECOMMENDED RELATED SITES
Not-Just-Recipes
Bengal cuisine
Cooking Vegetarian

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French Cuisine: Salmon Parmentier and Broad Beans Hash

SALMON-BEANS

Salmon and broad beans can be found on the plates and tables at homes and restaurants almost everywhere in the World.
Here is an easy recipe I found in my notes. It was both inspired by Japanese and French Cuisines, but definitely with a twist of the latter:

Parmentier de Saumon et Puree de Feves/Salmon Parmentier and Broad beans Hash!

INGREDIENTS:For 4 persons

-Salmon fillet (skin peeled off): 400 g
-Broad beans (peeled): 500 g
-Unsalted Butter 50g
-Hazlenut powder: 4 tablespoons
-Seasme oil: a few drops
-Ground pepper and fine salt

RECIPE:

-Preheat oven to 210 degrees Celsius
Put the salmon on an oven dish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Cover a piece of foil paper and bake for 15 minutes

-During that time Heat a big pan full of salte water and cook the broad beans for 5~6 minutes.
Take care not to overcook!

-Drain the broad n\beans and mash them roughly witha fork inside a bowl. Add a few dops of seasme opil and a little pepper and mix.

-Fiil 4 glass cups with the broad beans has, then add the cooked salmon (after having brol\ken it into large flakes).

-Sprinkle the hazlenut powder over the top. Add a dollop of butteron top.
Grill it in the oven so as to gratine it for a few minutes.

Serve with a sprig or two of flat Italian parsley.

NOTE: Keep a few whole broad beans and mix them with the hash for better effect!

-Accompany it with a wine from my home:: Rully white (Cote Chalonnaise)!

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French Dessert: Apple Crumble Tiramisu

CRUMBLE-TIRAMISU

Apples are still very much in season, but contrary to here in Japan, the cold days are around the corner back home and people are expecting slightly heartier if still smaller desserts!

Here is a simple recipe marrying English, French and Italian cuisines all at the same time:
Apple Crumble Tiramisu!

INGREDIENTS: for 6 persons

-Apples: 2 (Canada, golden, …)
-Semi-salted butter: 50 g
-Sugar: 2 tablespoons
-Mascarpone: 150 g
-Egg: 1
-Flemish speculoos (French spéculoos) or shortcrust biscuit (cookies)

RECIPE:

-Peel the apples and cut them into small pieces.

-Put them on a frypan with butter and sugar.

-Fry them slowly on a small fire for 10 minutes. Then turn fire higher and cook, stirring all the time, fro 2~3 minutes. Let them cool and pour them at the bottom of six smallindividual ramequins or cupcake cups.

-Separate the yolk and white of the egg.
Mix the mascarpone with the yolk.
Beat the white into meringue with a pinch of salt.

-Mix the meringue delicately into the mascarpone cream so as not to break the air bubbles inside the meringue. Pour over the apples.
Leave inside of the fridge for a minimum of 3 hours or up to a mximum of 12 hours.

-Just before sercing top with a thin layer of crushed speculoos cookies.

-Drink an apple wine such as pineau or pommeau with it!

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Vegetarian French Cuisine: Chilled Cucumber & Yoghurt Soup

CUCUMBER-YAOURT

Summer is supposedly a good season for slimming and cooking healthy foods. I don’t know about the former and I totally agree with the latter!
As this is a season for vegetables, it is also a good time to eat vegetarian now and then!

Chilled Cucumber & Yoghurt Soup

INGREDIENTS: For 4 persons

-Cumceumbers:2
-Plain yoghurt: 250 g
-Olive oil: 4 tablespoons
-Parsley or flat Italianparsley: half a bunch, fresh and washed in cold running water
-Coarse salt, salt & pepper

RECIPE:

-Cut and keep aside a piece of cucumber 4 cm long.
Peel the cucmbers and cut in halves lengthwise. discard the pips and cut again into small pieces.. In a bowl sprinkle them with coarse salt and put them aside for 30 minutes to let lose their water.

-Drain the cucumber pieces in a sieve.
Mix/process them together with the yoghurt, lightly chopped parsley and olive oil. The soup must be homogeneous. Season with salt and pepper.

-Chill inside fridge for at least 3 hours.

-Cut the the piece of cucumber into thin slices and keep in the fridge.

-Taste the soup and rectify/season it if necessary, before serving it very cold (add a cube of ice in each bowl for decoration and temperature!). Decorate with cucumber slices and parsley leaves.

NOTE:
If you find the the soup to thick add some vegetable stock soup/bouillon!

-Serve with an Alsace Muscat or slightly sweet white wine!

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French Cupcakes: Lemon & Ricotta Cupcakes

CUPCAKES

I finally succumbed to the temptation of posting a cupcake recipe!
Mind you, this one is very French in spite of its name, and I7m afraid it’s a first and last!LOL

Lemon & Ricotta Cupcakes!

INGREDIENTS: for 6~9 people

-2 lemons (organic, please!)
-Ricotta Cheese: 100 g
-Eggs: 2
-Slightly salted (demi-sel) butter: 110 g (softened)
-Sugar: 110 g
-Sieved flour: 110 g
-Baking powder: 1 small packet
-Icing sugar: 4 tabespoons

RECIPE:

-Preheat oven to 180 degrees Celsius

-Mix softened butter with sugar so as to obtain a creamy mixture.

-Lightly beta the 2 eggs. Mix them with the butter cream little by little.

-Add the finely chopped zest of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, the sieved flour, and the baking powder.. Mix well.

-Fill one fourth of each cup with that cupcake mixture.
Add a “large” teaspoon of ricotta.
Cover the ricotta with more cupcake mixture. Make sure to fill only three fourths of each cup.

-Bake at 180 degrees Celsius for 15 minutes.

-Prepare the icing/glacage:
In a bowl pour the icing sugar with a few drops of hot water and mix. Cover with cellophane paper and keep aside (you can use it until the cakes have completely cooled down.

-Cut 6~9 slices of the second lemon. Take off the outer skin.

-As soon as the cakes have completely cooled down, Top with one teaspoon of icing. Spread to make a small circle as in picture above. Top with one slice of lemon.

As this is a cupcake designed for adults, drink a dry white wine with them!

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French Cuisine: Marinated Cuttlefish

PISTES

The Japanese are not the only ones to eat cuttlefis or squids raw.
In French Languedoc, especially along the coastline separating the Thau Lake from the sea, locals have an interesting, is simple, way to accommodate small “calamars” (French for calamari) very reminiscent of recipes found in Greece, Italy and Spain.

Marinated Cuttlefish:

INGREDIENTS: (this can multiplied at will, so I’ll keep to elements, instead of quantities)
-Cuttlefish: Choose them small
-Garlic, finley chopped after being crushed with a fork, spoon or heavy knife.
-Lemon juice
-Olive oil (EV)
-Green chili pepper (fresh and high quality, fresh jalapenos is fine): finely chopped (discard seeds!)
-Salt & pepper

RECIPE:

-Peel off “skin” of calamari wherever possible. Clean them thoroughly under running cold water. Take off excess water with kitchen paper.
Cut into bite size or according to preferences.
-Let them marinate together with chopped garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, chopped green chili pepper, a little salt and pepper.
Proportions: 1 clove of garlic, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of olive oil, 1 small green chili pepper.
-Mix well and leave in fridge for at least 1 hour.
Serve in individual pots or on good toasted bread as tidbits for aperitif before a larger meal or as a snack to go with your beer or wine!

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French Cake by Bernard Heberle: Tarte aux Figues/Fig Tart

FIGUES-HEBERLE

My good French friend, Bernard Heberle, a native from Alsace in France and plying his trade as a patissier in Hamamatsu City, has just sent me his last creation:

Tart aux Figues/Fig Tart!

In his own words:
“Voici une tarte de saison , la combinaison de figue et de framboise sur un fond de pâte sucrée a l’amande régulée par une douce crème pâtissière , un vrai mélange de saveur et de parfum avec une sensation croustillante et mielleuse a la fois.”

“Here is a seasonal tart. The fig and raspberry combination on an almond pâte sucrée is enhanced by a soft crème pâtissière/custard. A true mixture of savours and perfume with a crusty and honey sensation.”

Abondance
Address: Hamamatsu Shi, Sumiyoshi, 2-14-27 (in front of Seirei Hospital)
Tel.: 053-4738400
Fax: 053-4738401
Opening hours: 10:00~20:00. Closed on Tuesdays.
Homepage

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French Sweets: Salted Butter & Ginger Bread Caramels

CARAMEL

Who does not like caramels?
Of course, there are many varieties depenfing on taste, texture and countries of origin.
My preferences lean towards the soft ones with a special taste.
These two caramels make use of ingredients from two different regions: Salted butter/Beurre sale from Bretagne/Brittany or Normandie/Normandie and Ginger bread/Pain d’epices from Bourgogne/Burgundy!

INGREDIENTS: ~35 caramels

-Salted butter caramels:
Fresh cream: 500g
Sugar: 375 g
Glucose syrup: 375 g
Salted butter: 200 g

-Ginger bread Caramels:
Fresh cream: 500
Good quality ginger bread: 100 g
Sugar: 375 g
Glucose syrup: 350 g
Fresh vanilla pod: 1
Salted butter: 100 g

-Utensils:
Thermometer
Thick bottom pan (middle size)
30 cm square mold for caramels

RECIPE:

-First prepare the salted butter caramels:

Line a mold with baking paper
In a thick bottom pan mix the glucose syrup and the sugar.Heat on a medium low fire to obtain a brown caramel.
Take off fire.
Add salted butter. Mix well. Add fresh cream. Mix well.
Put the pan back on the fire.
Whisking/stirring all the time, heat the mixture up to 180 degrees Celsius.
Cook for two more minutes and pour mixture inside mold.
Cut caramels with a saw-style knife before they have completely cooled down.
Wrap them separately/individually inside small thin jam cellophane paper.

-Secondly, prepare the ginger bread caramels:

Mix the fresh cram and the (crumbled) ginger bread in a bowl.
Cut the vanilla pod legthwise and take out the seeds.
In a thick bottom pan mix the sugar, glucose syrup, vanilla seeds and the ginger bread cream.
Stirring all the time heat the mixture uo to 180 degrees Celsius.
Add butter and mix.
Cook for two more minutes and pour mixture inside mold.
Cut caramels with a saw-style knife before they have completely cooled down.
Wrap them separately/individually inside small thin jam cellophane paper.

NOTE:
To obtain soft caramels do not overcook them.

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French Dessert: Glace aux Mendiants/Beggars’ Ice Cream

BEGGARS

“Beggars” in French has two meanings:
1) hobo, mendicant, …
2) it is the name given to dry fruit and grains used in desserts and cakes.
It is a tradition for example to make a tart called the Beggars Tart with 7 different kinds of dry fruit and nuts in Winter.

This is why why this ice-cream is called “Beggars’ Ice Cream”!

INGREDIENTS: 4 persons

-Milk: 250 ml
-Thyme leaves: 1 tablespoon
-Sugar: 90 g
-Powder milk: 40 g
-Egg: 1
-Whole fresh cream: 120 ml

-Marrons glaces: 75 g
-Preserved orange peels: 5o g
-Unsalted pistachio: 15 g

RECIPE:

-In a large pan bring the milk to boil and let the thyme infuse into it.

-In a large bowl mix the sugar and the powder milk.

-Separate egg yolks and whites.
In a deep bowl beat the egg yolks with a whisker with a little lukewarm nilk. Add the sugar and milk powder and mix. Add the rest of the milk.
Pour back into the large pan and mix with a spatula over a medium low fire.

-When the cream has become homogeneous/smooth, take off the fire and pour back into the deep bowl. Le cool.

-When the cream has completely cooled down, add and mix in the fresh cream and leave in refrigerator for at least 20 minutes.

-Take the cream out and strain it to discard the thyme leaves.

-Switch the ice cream maker/ice cream freezer on. Pour in the cream and let it turn/work for 25 minutes. When the ice cream starts jellyfing add egg whites, marrons glaces, orange peels and pistachio.
Fill soft molds (to make ice-crams easy to unmold) with ice ceam and leave inside freezer until just before serving.

-Serve it decorated with small pieces of marrons glaces, orange peels and broken pistachio over a caramel tile!

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French Cuisine: Duck, Prunes & Hazlenuts Pound Cake

DUCK-CAKE

Pound Cakes should be all cakes. The recipe can be adapted for meat eaters into an eminently presentable dish!
Duck/Magret is an exceptionally easy to adapt meat in such a case.
Here is another easy French recipe with another log name (it is becoming a habit! LOL):

Cake aux Magrets de Canard, Pruneaux et Noisettes
Duck Breast, Prunes & Hazlenuts Pound Cake!

INGREDIENTS: for 4 persons

-Eggs: 3
-Flour: 150 g
-Baking powder: 3~4 g
-Sunflower Oil: 100 ml
-Unskimmed milk: 125 ml
-Gruyere/Emmental Cheese: 100 g (grated)
-Duck breast: 150 g
-Prunes (pitted): 80 g (roughly cut)
-Hazenuts (roughly broken): 30 g
-Salt: a pinch
-Pepper: 2 pinches

RECIPE:

-Preheat oven to 6/180 degrees Celsius

-Cut the duck breast in small enough pieces with their skin on. dry fry them (no oil or fat needed) on both sides 3 minutes each.
-In a big bowl or processor, mix the eggs, flour, baking powder. . Mix well. Add sunflower oil and milk. Mix well. Add cheese. Mix again.

-Add the duck, prunse and hazlenuts.
Pour the lot into a buttered pound cake mold and bake for 45 minutes.

NOTE:
-You could use rabbit instead of duck.
-Let cool down completely before taking it out the mold.

Drink a sweet white wine with it!

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French Cuisine: Broad Beans, Parmegiano & Basil Clafoutis

BROAD-CLAFOUTIS

Clafoutis are not all desserts. The recipe can be easily adapted to vegetables and others. Living in Japan it is a bit reminiscent of tamagoyaki!
Here is another simple French recipe with a long name:
Clafoutis de Fevettes au Parmesan et Basilic
Broad Beans, Parmegiano & Basil Clafoutis!

INGREDIENTS: fro 4~6 persons

-Broad beans (choose them small): 500 g
-Eggs: 4
-Milk: 200 ml
-Fresh cream: 100 ml
-Grated Parmegiano Cheese: 70 g
-Flour: 2 tablespoons
-Sweet basil: a small bunch (finely chopped)
-Salt: a pinch
-Grated nutmeg: a pinch
-Freshly ground white pepper

RECIPE:

-Pre-heat oven to 160 degrees Celsius

-Drop the brad beans in a big pan of boiling salted water and cook for only a minute. Strain immediately and cool under running cold water. Drain again and put aside.

-In a large bowl break the eggs. Add milk and fresh cream. Strongly beat into an omelette.

-Add salt, flour, parmegiano, nutmeg, pepper and basil. Mix well. add brad beans.

-Butter the inside of a clafoutis dish.
Pour in the broad beans mixture.
Put inside oven immediately and bake for 35 minutes.

-Serve hot or cold with a roquette salad.

-Best appreciated with sparkling rose wine!

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French Cuisine: Lukewarm Carrots Salad with Orange Flower Vinaigrette

CARROTS

As a kid, I was not a fan of cooked carrots, whereas I could have never enough of grated carrot salad.
Age helping, my palate is finally accepting cooked carrots, especially new ones or the red Kyoto variety.
Here is a simple French recipe for new carrots with a very long name:
Salade de carottes fanes tiedes, vinaigrette a la Fleur d’Oranger
In English: Young carrots with part of their leaf stems, served lukewarm with a Orang Flower Vinaigrette!

INGREDIENTS: For 4 persons

-Carrots (young, small, with their leaves): a “bunch (at least 12 of them)
-Eggs (absolutely fresh!): 4
-Olive Oil (EV): 3 tablespoons
-Lemon juice and zeste (grated skin) from 1 whole lemon (organic if possible)
-Eau de Fleur d’Oranger/Orange Flower Water: 3 tablespoons
-Fine salt and ground pepper

RECIPE:

-Heat 1 litre of water to boil in the bottom of your steamer.

-Cut the leaves off the carrots leaving at least 2 cm of the stems on.
Quickly grate the skin off down to root point.
Make an incision all along their length.
Clean under clear cold running water.

-Place the carrots in the basket of your steamer. As soon as the water starts boiling, put the basket on top. Close your steamer and cook for 8~12 minutes.

-During that time heat some water to boil in another pan.
As soon as it starts boiling , carefully drop the eggs in the water (use a large strainer) and boil for 12 minutes.

-Clean and dry the lemon. cut the yellow part of the skin and chop finely. Pres the juice out into a glass.

-Cool the eggs under cold running water. Tap the eggs onto your kitchen board. Take off the shells.

-Mix in a bowl the lemon juice, olive oil, orange flower water, chopped lemon skin/zeste, salt and pepper. Place the warm/lukewarm carrots on 4 individual plates. Pour the vinaigrette on them. Last grate one boiled egg over each plate. Serve at once.

An Alsace type white wine would be best!

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French Dessert: Tarte au Cafe/Coffee Tart

CAFE-TART

The French desserts series continue!
Notice that this tart is served with a sauce, both lukewarm!

Tart au Cafe/Coffee Tart!

INGREDIENTS: For 4 persons

-Pastry:
Flour: 125 g
Sugar: 70 g
Butter: 60 g and 20 g for the mold
Egg: 1
Salt: a pinch

-Coffee Cream:
Lukewarm strong coffee: 300 ml
Butter: 130 g
Sugar: 200 g
Eggs: 6

-Chocolate sauce:
Dark chocolate: 100 g
Sugar: 70 g

RECIPE:

-Pastry:
Mix 60 g of butter cut in small pieces with the sugar and salt. Then add the egg and mix. last, add the flour and mix.
Once the pastry has become homogeneous/smooth, wrap it in cellophane paper and leave it in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 100 degrees Celsius.
Butter the inside of a mold (24 cm diameter). Spread the pastry with a pastry roll and place inside mold.
Puncture pastry with a fork. Cover it with a sheet of baking paper. Fill it with dry beans or baking pellets and cook for 10 minutes.

-Coffee Cream:
Melt butter in the lukewarm coffee.
Beat the eggs with the sugar until the mixture whitens. Then add te butter coffee and mix.
Take the tart out of the oven. Take out beans and baking paper. Fill the tart with the coffee cream and bake at 80 degrees Celsius for 1 hour.

-Chocolate Sauce:
Cut the chocolate finely with a knife.
Heat 150 ml of water and sugar to boil.
Take off fire.
Add the chocolate and whisk it strongly until the chocolate has completely melted.

-Unmold the tart carefully after having cooled down completely.
Serve with lukewarm chocolate sauce.

NOTE:
The slow baking of the taart is necessary to preserve the smoothness of the coffee cream!

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French Dessert: Mousse Chocolat Cafe et Tuile Orange Cafe Chocolat

CAFE-MOUSSE

Back into French Desserts!
Sorry for the fuzzy pic. I only had my mobile phone ready to take pics.
The titel is a bit long and needs a translation:
Coffee-scented Chocolate mousse and its Tile made of Orange, Coffee beans and Chocolate! (Phew!)

INGREDIENTS: For 6 people

-Mousse:
Chocolate: Black and coffee scented/perfumed, 200 g
Hot strong coffee: 1 cup
Eggs: 5
Butter: 50 g
Sugar: 30 g
Salt: 1 pinch

-Tuiles/Tiles
Chocolate perfumed coffee beans: 40 g
Coffee beans: 10
Flour: 60 g
Almonds (thinly sliced): 80 g
Butter: 100g
Brown sugar: 100 g
Orange juice: 200 ml

RECIPE:

-Mousse
Melt the chocolate and butter together over a bain-marie (one bowl into another bowl half full of water to avoid direct flame/fire contact with bowl). Dissolve the sugar into the strong hot coffee.
When the chocolate has melted add the coffee. Delicately mix, neither too long, nor too strongly, or you will break the harmony of the chocolate. Let cool down to lukewarm.
Break the eggs and separate the yolks and whites into two different bowls.
Add the salt to the egg white and whisk them into a solid meringue.
Add and mix the egg yolks into the coffee/butter/chocolate mixture.
Add and delicately fold into the meringued egg whites.
Pour the mousse into individual cups/bowls and leave inside the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.

-Tuiles/Tiles
Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius
Dry fry the thinned almonds on a frypan.
Crush the 10 coffee beans and add to the orange juice. Heat to boil.
Reduce to half and then filter the juice.
Melt butter on a very low fire. Then add the sugar, flour, orange juice and the almonds.
Let the tile paste cool down completely before adding the chocolate perfumed coffee beans.
On a non-stick oven plate (if unavailable, spread a cooking paper sheet over the oven sheet) pour the paste,1 tablespoon at a time and spread with back of the spoon.
Bake the tiles. They must be a bit thick an soft unde the teeth.
Keep the tiles in a tightly closed box until you serve them with the mousse.

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Vegan French Cuisine: Green Peas & Mint Chutney

PEAS-MINT

I’ve said before that the French are also fond of vegetarian and vegan cuisine and are always ready to adapt their traditional rcipes to different priorities.

Here is a French-style chutney that even my Indian friends will appreciate:
Green Peas & Mint Chutney!

INGREDIENTS: for 4~6 persons

-Fresh green peas: 300 g
-Small new onions: 2, thinly sliced
-Olive oil (EV): 2 tablespoons
-Brown sugar (light brown variety if possible): 1 tablespoon
-Freshly grated ginger: 1 teaspoon
-Mint: 3 large sprigs, finely cut (reserve a few leaves for decoration)
-Green lemon juice: 1
-Salt & pepper to taste

RECIPE:

-Cook the gree peas (out of their pods!) in a pan full of boiling salted water for 4~5 minutes. Try and preserve some firmness. Cool completely.

-At the same time cook the onions in the oive oil for 2~3 minutes, taking car not to “colour” them.
Add grated ginger, sugar, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Let simmer for 2~3 minutes.

-Mash the green peas (keep some whole for better effect the you will add at the end) and add to the onions. Let simmer for 2^3 more minutes. Lats add the finely cut mint and transfer the chutney into a bowl.
Serve cool or slgtly chilled.

NOTE:
You can mash all the green peas, but keeping a few whole added with a few mint leaves will look great!

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