Tag Archives: 美食

Bryan Baird’s Newsletter


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Baird Beer & Taproom Events Bulletin 2008 #20
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Dear Taproom Friend & Baird Beer Enthusiast:

We brewed our 1000th batch of Baird Beer this year on April 30. Thinking this an important landmark for us, we decided in advance to commemorate the occasion by formulating and brewing a uniquely characterful beer. We also found ourselves reflecting on our journey within the Japan craft brewing industry to batch # 1000. When we started the prevailing wisdom was that it made no economic or business sense to brew on a miniscule scale (our first brewing system was of 30-liter batch size). It generally was thought, too, that an exclusive focus on the brewing of beers with distinct character and strong personality was a mistake. Our dispense of beer at The Taproom at appropriate temperatures (generally 8 – 12 C), rather than at icy-cold industrial levels was often snickered at and provoked numerous comment about our “luke-warm” beer. I could go on.

Our sole mission was and is the delivery to discerning drinkers of a broad variety of beers that shimmer with character and shine with distinction. Fortunately for us, there is in Japan an abundance of sensistive, open-minded and discerning drinkers. It has been sheer joy to brew beer for such a fine group. To those who didn’t get it, and perhaps sitll don’t, we say, good naturedly: Zamamiro! (loosely translated as, “Hey, I told you so!”).

*Batch # 1000 Ale (Zamamiro! Ale) (ABV 7.8%):

The concept here is a strong, golden ale that enjoys a clean, crisp and easy smoothness while still packing a powerful flavor and alcohol punch. The brewing inspiration is very Belgian — we use only base malts and unmalted wheat, we jack up the gravity (to 1.074) with lots of sugar (sudakito), keep the hop BUs at a reasonable level (35), and accentuate aroma by dry-hopping with earthy, herbal hop varieties (Santiam and Glacier). The only thing Belgian we don’t do is ferment with a phenolic-producing Belgian yeast strain (we use our house ale yeast instead). The result, we think, is a beer that combines supreme drinkability with quiet audacity.

Batch # 1000 Ale is now being served on draught at both of our Taprooms as well as at other fine Baird Beer retailing pubs and restaurants throughout Japan. 633 ml bottles also are available for purchase at Baird Beer retailing liquor stores in Japan and via our online estore.

Please note: The Nakameguro Taproom will be closed for business Tuesday, September 16 due to a special event. It will re-open for normal business hours on Wednesday, September 17.

Cheers!

Bryan Baird
Baird Brewing Company
Numazu, Japan
HOMEPAGE

Gastronomic Destinations : Hokkaido (4)


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In spite of all those oysters in Sapporo devoured in Sapporo, our next destination on the following day was Otaru City and its fish market. The latter is located just left of the JR Station exit. Small in scale, itis still a must-see in that citiy as it will offer sights of seafood consumed all over Japan!

OTARU SANKAKU FISH MARKET


Go down the steep narrow alley between the various booths.

Bear in mind that Hokkaido is also famed for its summer vegetables, especially tomatoes, and wild mushrooms!

Fresh and dried fish are ready for consumption or will be sent all over Japan as every stand benefits from a home-delivery system!

Even the numerous Russian tourists buy those crabs!

Salmon, the King of fish!

An Otaru delicacy: “Sankaku/Sand Borer Fish”. A beauty, raw, dried or cooked!

We arrived pretty early in the morning and for once, to get a break from all that fish, looked around for some meat.
Although Hokkaido is celebrated for its beef and mutton, we decided to try chicken instead:

NEW NARUTO


New Naruto is a minuscule place seating less than 20 people.
It is constantly crowded. Either you come early or wait, knowing they might run out of meat, in which case they momentarily close the place!

The prices are simply ridiculous low by any standards. The portions are Gargantuan (thanks to the Russian tourists?) like the above half chicken,

or fried pieces of chicken. We had ordered two of each for the four of us with a couple of beers. We could not finish them all and gave the leftovers to some happy youngsters next door who were waiting for their orders!

New Naruto
Otaru City, Hanaen 1 Chome, 10-10
Tel.: 0134-328003

There is one more in town just in case at
Otaru City, Ironai 1 chome, 1
Tel.: 0134-241233

OTARU MASASUSHI

That particular night, which was our last one in Hokkaido, we decided to have a last try at the local fish.
We found a very reasonable, if a bit modest, sushi restaurant we can safely recommend to all:
Otaru Masasushi

Not only their fish is of good and reasonable, but they also have the merit to serve a couple of local sake.
I found Onikoroshi (Kill the Devil) by Tanaka Brewery (Otaru City) quite amenable with the sushi offering.

If you are not sure what to order, just ask for the Special Set/”Moriawase”.
It comes first with ika somen/thin strips of raw cuttle fish you eat with a sauce you prepare yourself with soy sauce, one raw egg yolk and raw urchin. Just challenge it!

The second dish consists of a plate of sushi (the uni gunkan is not featured as I was no patient enough to wait for it for the pic!) and Japanese soup and pickles!

Otaru Masazushi
Otaru City, Hanaen, 1-1-1 (Sushi Toori/Sushi Street)
Tel.: 0134-220011
Fax: 0134-22-8118
Closed on Wednesdays
HOMEPAGE (Japanese)

I sincerely hope you will find this small series of articles useful if you the chance to visit Hokkaido!

Gastronomic Destinations: Hokkaido (3)


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After that great night at Kita DanDan Auberge in Abashiri City, we drove all day to Wakkanai City at the northenest tip of Japan and took a ferry to spend two days and nights in Rishiri Island. Unfortunately, the weather did not greet us and the constant rain limited our activities. A pity as this island has a lot to offer. Consult these Pages 1, 2 for references!

So, on the fourth, day, we took the ferry back to wakkanai and boarded on a local train to Sapporo City, six hours away. Hokkaido is a big island and travelling the slow way by train will allow you to admire some great views and intriguing sites!

We had in mind the place to help us forget the msfortune of the last two days:
HIRAKU, a Japanese style Oyster and Seafood Bar! A bit of a misnomer as it is a full-fledged Izakaya! They specialize in oyster cuisines and offer no less than 32 preparations!
Looking at the menu was a bit of headache as obviously even the four of us would not have been able to taste everything!
Anyway, we did manage to sample a lot and will describe them succintly in the order we ate them!

-See picture at top: Cold steamed oysters served in Japanese fahion with grated daikon and ponzu dressing.

-“Steak-style Kaki”. The oysters are sauteed like a steak with mushrooms and veg with a steak sauce.

-“Fry-Kaki”. The oysters are dipped in batter and breadcrumbs before deep-fried. They must be served at once to be truly appreciated and they were!

-“Shyoyaki yamame”. We kept our eyes open for other morsels naturally. Yamamame is a small Japanese trout variety. You eat it all, head and tail!

-“Escargot fuu Kaki”. French snail-style oyster oysters. Need I explain? Quite tasty, actually!

-Kaki Haru maki”. Deep-fried oyster Imperial rolls. Both crunchy and juicy. A great snack!

They are also very good at preparing meat as demonstrated by this suteed duck breast!

-Kaki Chiizu”. Oysters steamed inside cheese. Frankly speaking, I don’t have a clue how they make them. I know they do use processed cheese. A great snack again!

-“Kimuchi Nabe”. Oysters cooked on a hot plate with kimchee. We are not so far from Korea after all!

-Some sushi rolls to satisfy our need for carbohydrates! LOL,

-“Kaki Tenpura”. This is the first time ever I ate oysters as tenpura! Not easy to make, I’m sure! Delicious!

-“O soba”. As the place is also renown for its buckwheat noodles, we had a serving to end the meal. A complimentary dessert was served at the end of the meal.

Staff at Hiraku are particularly attentive, friendly and fast. A plus in this kind of big izakaya.
Another plus is their drinks memu, with all the items to satisfy evey taste, including some local sake and French wines. A great place for small groups!

HIRAKU

060-0061 Sapporo City, Chuo Ku, Dai Ichi Jyo Nishi, 5 Chome, 17-2, President Matsui Bldg. 100-1202
Tel.: 011-272-6866
Fax: (011)272-6895
Reservations telelephone: (011)241-6165
Opening hours: 17:00~23:00
Closed on Sundays & National Holidays
Cards OK
Homepage (Japanese)

Shizuoka Izakaya: Waga


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Waga is your typical new wave izakaya. Opened a little more than two years ago by the very young at heart (a fan of the Beatles,Queen and Led Zeppelin among others) Shuhei Ichikawa it seems very popular as I managed to enter it only at the third try and this somewhat late at night. In any case if you plan to patronize the place before 9:00 p.m., you had better reserve in advance!

The staff in their late 20’s (30’s?) are a smiling hard-working bunch, but nonetheless extremely welcoming and attentive.
Now as any good izakaya, Waga always has at least a couple of remarkable jizake on offer, although they do change regularly.

The first I ordered was a Hakuin Masamune Junmai by Takashima Brewery in Namazu, a real beauty!
It just drank like wine! Pity I could not stay too long this time, or I might have contributed to the bottle death!

Actually you had better keep your eyes wide open! Not many izakaya offer French Pernod and Ricard, and Portuguese Porto wines!

Now the first indication of a good izakaya, and especially in Shizuoka Prefeture, is its sashimi offering. If you ask for “moriawase/plate”, you will get a good idea of the establishment.
Now, the “Katsuo Tataki/Bonito slightly cooked”, “Kanpachi/Yellowtail” and “Maguro/Tuna” were simply of the higher level that would put a few vaunted Tokyo places at shame, but at very kind prices!

As I said, my friend and I were in a bit of a hurry, but we opted for dishes representative of the establishment. The seasonal dish was “Jukusei Tsurushi Buta Saute to Kisetsu no Kinoko Ankake/Sauteed matured Pork (with tofu) and seasonal mushrooms in sweet and sour sauce”. A hearty dish which should satisfy a big appetite!

Talking of solid appetites the “Karaage/Deep-fried Chicken)” was not only succulent but absolutely enormous. You would problems closing your hand around any of them!

When it comes to sake I’m a big drinker. I asked for the other Shizuoka Sake available, Takasago karakuchi Junmai by Fuji Takasago Brewery in Fujinomiya City. Very dry indeed, but so easy and pleasant to drink!

“Tamagoyaki/Japanese Omelette” is also another preriquisite at any good izakaya, and the one concocted by Waga is also a beauty. We certainly did not need any dessert!

Blimey! There is no way we could sample all the offerings. Which means I will have to come back in a hurry!

Waga
420-0839 Shizuoka Shi, Aoi Ku, Takajo Machi, 2-1-20, Kuroyanagi Bldg., 1F
Tel. & Fax: 054-271-7121
Opening hours: 17:30~23:30 (Monday to Thursday), 17:30~26:00 (Friday, Saturday and day before any National Holiday).
Closed on Sundays and National Holidays.
Set menus and parties possible.
Reservations recommended.
HOMEPAGE (Japanese)

Gastronomic Destinations: Hokkaido (2)


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After our remarkable cruise along the World Natural Heritage of Shiretoko Peninsula, we leisurely drove away from the centre of Abashiri into the neighbouring forested hills in search of the Hotsprings Auberge/Inn called “Auberge Kita no Dandan”/”Warmth of the North Inn”.

It is surrounded with a pristine forest of white birches and fir trees (I was told there are plenty of wild mushrooms to pick inside!). It was built about two years ago with the view to offer guests a traditional glimpse of Japan. It is replete with antiques and local crafts of every possible kind.

The bedrooms are quaint and delightful combination of tradition and state-of-the-art equipment.
The place itself is worth hours of exploration. They even leave cold snack and food all night in the “lounge” for hungry night owls!

Each room has its own individual bathroom, but you may also use a private hotspring bath. or even better take a dip 24 hours a day in the “Rotenburo/Open air bath”! This alone is worth the visit!
But,…
Now, you might have wondered why it bears the French appelation of “Auberge”?
Fairly simple: all the food is of French concept with whenever possible local Japanese ingredients accompanied by a short but well-balanced French wine list! (and local sake, and so on!)

We had reserved our dinner and breakfast on the Internet. In any case the deal includes them and eating out would have been a bit problematic. We certainly did not regret it!

The four of us opted for local sake as aperitif to accompany the amuse-bouches/starters (see above pics): Taitetsu no Kura, honjozo, and Kita no Katsu, futsuhu, both sake from Hokkaido.

From the wine list we started with a refreshing Kuentz Riesling 2005 from Bas Alsace.
Only then could we seriously commence the feast:

“Ao Soi to Mizutako no Arai, O Tsukuri Fuu”: a sashimi salad consisting of “blue soi”, a fish caught off Hokkaido island and mizutako octopus, a small variety with vegetables grown in the Auuberge garden.

“Ke gani no reisei kappriini/Cold Cappellini with spider Crab”. Alright this is not French, but Italian in concept and taste. Absolutely succulent crab legs (enormous!).

“Taihei no nama Ham maki/Braised Raw Ham Roll”. Someone will say it’s Italian again! And I don’t mind as long as I can get my hands on that morsel again!

“Yaki Nasu to Masu Yamato Mushi/Grilled Aubergine/Egg plnt and Trout Steamed in Tradtional Japanese manner/: this both Japanese and Italian in concept. After peeling off its skin the grilled aubergine is rolled into a paste of trout before being steamed and served hot with a slightly sweet translucent sauce.

“Hotate no Poare/sauteed scallops”: I won a little contest on that one. I was the only one to understand that fresh cream and sieved seaweed has been included in the sauce!

I don’t have to explain that the wine had disappeared by then! We contued with a Cote du Rhone, 2006, Parallele 45 distributed by Paul Jaboulet. Just what we needed for the meat!

“Shari Machi, Tamura san ga sodateta Sanrokuton/Sanroku pork from pig raised by Mr. Tamura in Shari Village (nearby village)”. It almost looked like a big sushi on a ball of vegetables. It melted inside the mouth!

“Kasupe Hoppe Moromi Yaki/Kasupe Fish Cheek grilled with a moromi coating”. Kasupe is a local fish big enough to have its cheeks grilled. A discovery!

“Gohan.Kaori no Mono.Shirumono/mixed rice, soba buckwheat noodles in light soup with a piece of grilled herring”. No need to say this was a turn around to Japanese cuisine! Surprisingly good herring with soba. A common dish in Kyoto, this is the first time I really appreciated it!

Now I defy Rowena, Bentoist and Tom to describe our dessert:
Wild Wasabi Sherbet and Creme Brulee accented with String Beans (first boiled and and sieved!)

Alright, we also had coffee, mignardises and a nightcap!

The next morning, the breakfast was served on plates course by course. But I forgot to bring the camera (mobile phone)! Sorry guys as this was the best-ever hotel breakfast!

Auberge Kita No Dandan
093-0045 Hokkaido, Abashiri Shi, Oomagari, 39-17 (3 minutes by car from Abashiri JR Station)
Tel.: 0152-45-5963
Fax: 0152-45-5995
Credit Cards OK
HOMEPAGE

Gastronomic Destinations: Hokkaido (1)


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Every year, preferably end of August and beginning of September I embark on a gastronomic tour away from Shizuoka Prefecture. Last year I went home in Bogurgogne, France and immersed myself in my birth place wine and home-made food.
This year, travelling abroad having momentarily become too an expensive proposition, we (the Missus and I) decided to visit a favourite destination of ours, namely Hokkaido.

Having disembarked at Memanbetsu Airport (leaving from Haneda) near Shiretoko Peninsula, one the three Japanese World Natural Heritage, we rallied Abashiri City by rented car and stayed ther overnight in an unremarkable hotel.

The next day, we boarded a ferry on a three-hour trip till the very tip of Shiretoko Peninsula. This is a rare place of Japan where you can admire a pristine untouched nature and would recommend anyone to visit it if you come to Japan!

Some of the best Japanese sea salmon is caught there by local fishermen who actually unload their catch onto our ferry every day for quick delivery to Abashiri, the nearest harbour and market of note. You can be assured that it comes fresh onto your plate!

IKYUYA


By the time we were back in Abashiri we were starving. We just had time to admire the local scenery before we (after some driving around) found one of our destinations, Ikyuya, located in a small city called Shari (some of the place names in Hokkaido can become a real puzzle as they are mostly very local names written in Kanji that fit the pronunciation instead of the meaning!).
We (the Missus) had chosen this establishment as a representative of the local cuisine favoured by local people.

THe Missus oredered the “Oyako Don”/”Father-Mother and Son-Daughter Bowl”.
In Shizuoka it means chicken omelette (the Hen and the Egg!) spread on a bowl of rice. In Hokkaido, it stands for Shake sahimi”/salmon sashimi and “Ikura”/salmon roe spread over a bowl of rice. It must have been good as for once silence reigns around the table!

Our two friends (which included our gracious driver) opted for “Uni don”/sea urchin spread over a bowl of rice,

“Uni to Ikura Don”/sea urchin and salmon roe spread over a bowl of rice.
Extravagance at a very reasonable rice, absolutely fresh and sweet seafood away from metropolises, what more can you ask?

As for myself, I chose the “Ebi Frai Teishoku”/fried prawns set lunch as I felt in need of hot food on a rainy day. The Missus could not stop ogling at the enormous prawns! LOL.
We certainly felt revived for the rest of our trip!

Ikyuya
Hokkaido, Shari Cho, Utoro Higashi, 13 (2 minutes walk from Utoro Hotsprings Bus Terminal)
Tel.: 0152-242557
Opening hours: 11:00~18:00 (might get closed in the afternoon on busy days. Come early!)

Bryan Baird’s Newsletter


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Baird Beer & Taproom Events Bulletin 2008 #19
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Dear Taproom Friend & Baird Beer Enthusiast:

The sublimity of beer resides not just in the drinking but also in the historical, cultural and social tales it tells. Japan Tale Ale is our conception of a beer that tells, in its liquid way, a story of Japan. Today’s release of Japan Tale Ale 2008 represents the second installment in what promises to be a long and interesting story.

Japan Tale Ale 2008 (ABV 6.1%):

Brewed with a host of indigenous Japanese ingredients (umalted wheat, rice, sudakito sugar and plums), Japan Tale Ale is lightly hopped, highly attenuated, pleasantly tart and extremely refreshing. It almost drinks like a beer version of a well-made Ume Sour (a popular drink served in traditional Japanese pubs that is made with distilled shochu and plums and served carbonated on ice). It is now available on draught at both of our Taprooms and at other fine Baird Beer retailing pubs and restaurants. 633 ml bottles also will be available for purchase at Baird Beer retailing liquor shops throughout Japan and via our own estore.

Please mark your calendar for this Saturday, September 6. Beginning at 7:00 pm the Fishmarket Taproom will be hosting a live acoustic music show by the blues-inspired singer, Mexico. A 500 yen music charge will be collected at the door. Please plan to join us.

Cheers!

Bryan Baird

Baird Brewing Company
Numazu, Japan

French Cuisine: Lunch at Les Cinqs


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Yesterday, Sunday would not usually sees me going for lunch anywhere, but the torrential rains having cancelled all possibilities of sport, I was not going to sulk at home and spend a miserable day in a stuffy apartment.
So, under the inefficient protection of my biggest umbrella, I walked/paddled to the bus stop (I do not drive anyway, and a bicycle ride would have turned into a filthy nightmare). I shall refrain from relating the hazards of waiting for commuters’ transport under a deluge along a crowded road and stick to the real venture of the day, namely my lunch!

Les Cinqs offers two different lunch courses 3,150 yen and 5.250 yen (I opted for the latter) with a succinct but sufficient list of wines served by the glass. Of course you may order a full bottle if you wish to.
Noticing Japanese wines on the said list, I decided to have a go for them as I entirely trusted the restaurant. They were actually priced higher than their French counterparts…
The first to come was a “Kooshu wine” Gris de Gris from Yamanashi Prefefecture concocted by Chateau Mercian in 2007. Of a very rich oaken colour, restrained aroma, it tasted very dry but fruity with a shortish tail.

A plate of amuse bouche consisting of scrumptious, if minuscule, duck liver paste gougeres.

The first hors d’oeuvres was a cold Edamame Mousse with Tomato Sauce. Succulent, refreshing and elegant, it actually a more hearty fare than one would believe.
Having chosen a table by the bay window and somewhat isolated from the other guests, I did not bother too much about my manners and ate at my own (fast) pace. Interestingly enough, only one other table had ordered wine. All the other customers were on cold water or its mineral equivalent. I wonder sometimes why people visit higher class restaurants…

The second hors d’oeuvres was “Aji/Saurel” and “Maru Okura/a round okura variety” Tartare with its greens and flowers salad organically grown by Mr. Matsuki at Bio Farm in Shibakawa Cho and other farmers in Yaizu City. The fish came from Chiba Prefecture as it is a bit out season down here. It certainly would have bettered a lot of offerings served at (good) sushi restaurants!

It was about time to order a second glass and I persevered with Japanese wine, namely a Merlot grown in Nagano Prefecture by the same company in 2006. Of a rich dark colour and pungy aroma, it showed a lot of red fruit with a dry shortish tail. I shall have to revise my thinking about Japanese wine to the chagrin of my Burgundian ancestors…


The fish was a surprise indeed, and that single dish would have earned Chuckeats and Luxeat‘s praises! Pan-fried “kuro mutsu/Scombrops gilberti (Jordan and Snyder) (I do not know the English name)

on a bed of “kushinsai/a Chinese vegetable increasingly grown in Japan/

accompanied with a square piece of grilled watermelon “ridden” by a couple of white aubergine tenpura, the whole accented with a Balsamico and sweet basil sauce.
An exquisite salty and sweet marriage!

The second glass having disappeared, I came back nearer to my roots and ordered a glass of Beaujolais Villages, Jean-Claude Lapalu, Cuvee Vieilles Vignes, “Le Petit Vernay”, 2006. A honest wine of rich red colour and powerful aroma, it did taste rich but dry with plenty of red fruit.
It proved a good choice with the meat:

The pork is local and has been named “LBY Ton”. You will not find it outside Japan, but if you do venture here, you will find it both tender and solid and certainly more satisfying in spite of its very rural image. It was served with large Shishito/Japanese Japalenos from Kyoto, courgettes and three kinds of fried potatoes from Yaizu City and seasoned with a great madeira and porto sauce, contributing the right sweet amount to the spicy approach for the pork.

The dessert, Gateau au chocolat with a lukewarm Creme Anglaise/Custard, was absolutely delicious in its simplicity. A dessert that would have had Nicholas Sarkozy run all the way from the G8 summit in Hokkaido where he had had such a hard time, teetollar as he is, pretending to appreciate the art behind a sake cup!

As a good French man (who am i kidding?), I could not help having a last toast to him and our Europeans bigwigs with a Fonseca Porto 1997!

But like Mr. Sarkozy, I do have a sweet tooth and accompanied it with some succulent mignardises!

LES CINQS
Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Shichiken-cho, 17-14, Amble Court 1F (along north side of Aoba Park beyond Aoba Park Police Box)
Tel.: 054-251-7728
Cards OK (from end of September)
Reservations recommended

Le Cafe-Labo: Classic Cakes (7)


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It’s pears season and Le Cafe-Labo in Shizuoka City has come up with another creation: Pear Mousse!
A cake of just the right size which should tempt Banu with some iced coffee!
A little small but more filling than you might expect.

For once I shall explain from bottom to top:
-A very thin sponge cake slice imbibed with pear liqueur
-Peaar Mousse with some pear liqueur poached pear to be discovered inside
-A thin layer of caramel sauce
-Small pear wedges poached in pear liqueur, Creme Chantilly, redcurrants, chocolate chip and mini mint leaves.

I must admit I ate it far too fast!
Taste Memory Girl and Rowena will scream at the sacrilege! LOL

LE CAFE-LABO
424-0886 Shizuoka City, Shimizu Ku, Kusanagi, 46
Tel.: 054-3441661
Also available at Isetan Dept. Store, Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Shichiken-Cho

Shizuoka Umeshu: Masu Ichi Brewery


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Every year more local breweries are offering “umeshu” eminently popular in summer when it is most appreciated poured over a few ice cubes!

Masu-Ichi Brewery in Shizuoka City has just entered the fray with concoction called “Denjiro”, which actually is the master brewer/toji’s trade name as he is the second apprentice of Denbei Kawamura, the man who created the Shizuoka Yeast.

It contains less alcohol, 7~8 degrees, as compared to the more usual 15 degrees, making it very easy to drink by ladies and younger people in particular.

Masu Ichi Brewery: “Denjiro”, “Tsuka/Plum Aroma” Umeshu

Alcohol: 7~8 degrees
Plums, sake, sugar.
Bottled: July 11th, 2008

Clarity: very clear
Colour: light red/pink
Aroma: light, dry, plums
Body: velvety
Taste: Shortish tail. Plum taste discreet, not overwhelming. Elegant. Dry.

Overall: Makes for a great light aperitif in hot summers!

French Cuisine: Les Cinqs


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LES CINQS: Grand opening on August 23rd!

At long last, my favourite French Chef in Shizuoka, Tetsuya Sugimoto, is back with us after more than three months of inactivity! Mr. Sugimoto decided to close his highly popular restaurant “Sugimoto” last May after 8 years at the helm, deciding it was time to tackle the next challenge.
The new venture is certainly of a different scale!
He associated himself with Mr. Hideya Nakamura, the owner of Les Cinqs and Mr. Makoto Toi, its General Manager. Tetsuya Sugimoto will have then his hands free to lead a team of four in the kitchen while three more staff will look after the guests and patrons.


Located along Aoba Koen/Park within walking distance from the large Tokiwa Park Fountain the concept of the new restaurant is multi-faceted to cater for different kinds of customers:
At a private counter seating six (above pic) and in two private rooms seating six and four (can be joined to seat 10, below pic) will be served upon reservation a full dinner course for 10,000 yen.

Lunch courses served between 11:30 and 15:00 (last orders at 14:00) will start from 3,000 yen. The restaurant will accept special orders upon reservation according to predeterminate budgets.

Dinner will be served from 18:00 to 23:00 (last orders at 21:00). After 21:00 guests may come just for wine and hors d’oeuvres.

An A La Carte Menu will be available in the main dining room seating twenty-four with Starters/hors d’oeuvres from 1,000 yen up, main dishes from 2,500 yen up and desserts.
Actually from what I have seen, I would recommend taking a seat in the dining room by the large bay windows, unless you prefer the extravagant privacy of the counter!

The wine list is still in process, but I already know the cellar will shelter more than a hundred kinds of mainly French wines!
Yes, there will be some great Shizuoka Sake in the fridge, too!
As for the food, expect my first report by mid September (sorry, I’ll be away for a while!)

LES CINQS
Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Shichiken-cho, 17-14, Amble Court 1F (along north side of Aoba Park beyond Aoba Park Police Box)
Tel.: 054-251-7728
Cards OK (from end of September)
Reservations recommended

Gastronomic Destinations: France (2)


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Saint-Martin du Mont: Restaurant L’Auberge du Moulin

If you want to get yourself lost in some unknown confines of Bourgogne/Burgundy, live the slow life and savour real traditional food at ridiculously low prices, I would strongly recommend you to discover the minuscule city of Saint-Martin du Mont lost in the middle of Bresse east of Louhans, a region which has given its name to the most famous cicken in the World.


If you opt for a set course you have a choice between three dishes for 15 Euros or four dishes from 20 Euros. Children can have their own menu for 8 Euros!


Wines at the Auberge du Moulin are mainly from the Cote Chalonnaise, probably the best value when it comes to Bourgogne wines. We were quite a few for lunch on a Saturday and we opted for a succulent Givry !er Cru (my own village!), La Renarde, Clos du Cellier aux Moines, Red, 2004.
The perfect wine to go with some really hearty food we ordered:


“Jambon persille au vin de Chablis”/Ham in its own jelly containing parsley and Chablis wine. The Chef, Jean-Jacques Martineau who practically works on his own in his kitchen, makes his own ham from local pigs! A typical Burgundian hors d’oeuvres ( a main dish in many homes!)!


“Terrine au poivre vert”/Green pepper terrine. When you see such a big hors d’oeuvres sitting on the table in front of you, you start wandering if you will be able to go through the whole meal!


“Oeufs Meurette”/Poached eggs served in red wine and mushrooms sauce a garlicked toast. Break the eggs in the sauce first! Another typical Burgundian dish!


“Meli-melo d’escargots et moules, sauce au Roquefort”/Marriage of snails and mussles in Roquefort blue cheese sauce. When sea meets land under the benediction of a ewe!


“Rognons de veau”/Veal Kidneys. Tender and juicy in the perfect cognac and cream sauce. An acquired taste? I did not personally oredered it, but I certainly would not mind!


“Cuisses de Grenouilles”/Froglegs. Another Burgundian specialty with a little accent from the South. Sauteed in olive oil, you eat them with your fingers!


“Cassolette de Saint-Jacques au Noilly Prat”/Scallops in Noilly Prat and cream sauce with a crawfish! Another meeting between land (river, actually!) and sea!


“Salade bressane”/Bresse salad. A very local (we are in the heart of Bresse) hors d’oeuvres which makes for a real meal at home: Ggeens, bacon, poached egg, chicken liver and garlicked toast.


“Nous v’la Bien-Quasi de porc mitonne avec un duo de champignons bolets at cepes dans un veloute de cidre legerement creme, accompagne de pommes de terre vapeur”/pork stewed with mushrooms, cider, cream and accompanied with steamed potatoes.
We could not resist the “Cocottes bressanes”/Bresse pots. This is a traditional way of cooking which dates back to many centuries ago!


“Dix sept a point-Jambon de porc fume par nos soins et cuit dans du vin de la cote chalonnaise avec lardons et champignons, accompagne de pommes de terre vapeur”/home-smoked ham and cooked in cote chalonnaise wine with bacon and mushrooms, served with steamed potatoes.


“Travers de porc laque/lacquered pork”. A dish that would tempt the likes of Foodhoe and Gaijin Tonic!


“Profiteroles au chocolat”, a dessert that would start Bill cooking!


Absolutely enormous “Creme brulee flambee!”


“Baba au rhum”. This was my dessert! I had almost to be towed out, as full as I was!

L’Auberge du Moulin
71580, SAINT MARTIN DU MONT, France
TEL 0385740233

Local Agricultural Products: Agriroad Miwa


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11 years ago, farmers’ wives living in Miwa and in the vicinity of the Abe River in Shizuoka City founded Agriroad (Agricultural Road) Miwa with the help of JA.
A good friend of mine who lives nearby had told me many a time about it and had strongly recommended me to visit it, but it seemed I needed something special prod me into action.

Actually, the opportunity that finally triggered me into cycling all the way on a blistering hot Wednesday morning was a round orange zucchini I discovered last week at Bu-Ichi, a favourite izakaya of mine. When the Oyakata/Chef-owner mentioned it had been grown in Miwa, I had no recourse but to check for myself!
So, I arrived in JA Agriroad Miwa at exactly 9:30, its opening hour (I did not know…).
It is a small establishment by all accounts, but before I talked to anyone I had a look at the wares on sale.

All vegetables are not only grown in the vicinity, making them easily traceable, but all labels featured the name of its grower and the date of harvest!
The place was crowded with local people, but also a few obvious “strangers” (not mentioning the barging expat!) were seen coming in cars apparently knowing well what they intended to buy. I found out later that some of were clever owners of restaurants downtown (a good 10 km away, mind you!).

The quality would have been enough to warrant regular visits and the originality (Shizuoka goya, for example) of some vegetables should attract many a food critique.
But the prices! Absolutely ridiculously low! How do they make business?
Try to decipher the prices on the following pictures:


Most of them are 100 yen (less than 1$ in Japan!) or 150 yen (less than 1 Euro!)!
Even recipes to prepare and serve them are provided for all interested!


Naturally the green tea for which Shizuoka Prefecture (70% of the total national output!) is so famous is purely local!


Great fresh eggs with not only names but also pictures of the farmers!


Even the flowers are local!


That is when I noticed one of the employees (actually they work in shifts on a association basis) cooking “Kin Tsuba” cakes (their name comes from the shape of a samurai sword guard). They are made of a batter containing “yomogi”, a plant common all over Japan and “Anko”/Japanese azuki beans sweatmeats. The lady answered to the name of Natsuko Koyanagi (Small Willow). We quickly started chatting and the “interview” became a real pleasure with lthe dear ady needing no prodding into answering my questions. I actually obtained more than I bargained for!
The cakes were not on sale as they had all been ordered early in the morning. The poor lady had to refuse them to all local customers who seemed to have a developped a particular liking for them! I felt a bit embarrassed (and pleased) when she offered me one when no one was looking!
Hot and freshly cooked, it ate like a delicious pancake!
This was when I mentioned that round orange zucchini that Rowena would like so much to find about.
She knew the lady who grew them and so generously offered to drive me to her place as soon as she had fished cooking all those cakes!

I certainly had a great time visiting her friend’s plots after I had been invited to refeshments in her home!
Unfortunately, this was the end of the season for zucchini/courgettes and the treasures I had been looking for were all gone!
But when I mentioned all those flowers that seemed to go to waste, I asked the two ladies if they knew how to cook them. They did not! Taste Memory Girl will never believe me!
At last I could give something back! I told them at least three ways to cook them, and Mrs. Koyanagi started picking them up in earnest!

Unfortunately again, I could not stay too long with them as work was waiting for me, but you can expect more articles as I plan to cycle there regularly!
Problem is that they might ask me to contribute to their recipes. LOL.

〒421-2114 Shizuoka Shi, Aoi Ku, Abeguchishinden, 537-1.
Tel.: 054-296-7878.
Fax: 054-296-7878
Business hours: 09:30~15:30 (from 08:30 on Saturday, Sunday and Holidays)

Gastronomic Destinations: France (1)


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(Cote Chalonnaise Vineyard/Givry)

Chalon Sur Saone: Restaurant L’Essentiel

Chalon sur Saone in Bourgogne/Burgundy, France, has given its name to the Appelation Cote Chalonnaise, which, cent for cent, has become better value than some overblown Bourgogne vintages. Actually, the city itself stands a good 10 km away from the first vineyards. That might explain why Chalon Sur Saone was rarely mentioned in gastronomic guides until recently.
It certainly was a pity as the very central position of the city gave it the best access to all food ingredients that have made Bourgogne so famous.

But then, about ten years ago, the trend completely changed. The reason is the Saint-Laurent Island in the very middle of the very wide Saone River within easy reach thanks to the bridge of the same name.

Its main street, Rue de Strasbourg suddenly became the place to eat and drink out because of its great tranquility away from the bustling centre. The street presently counts more than twenty restaurants of all kinds.
I’m particularly fond of L’Essntiel, which as its name indicates, serves generous plates of very traditional but precise Burgundian gastronomy. And this at very reasonable prices.
The last time I went there was in the company of five of my siblings and the Missus, which allowed to sample quite a few of their offerings made the more tempting by the genuine friendliness of the owners and staff:

Seabass on a bed of apples and pears.

“Sandre” fish with a potato “curtain”.

Veal Sweetbreads, my personal order. Enormous, but so nice and cruchy outside and so tender inside!

Beef Fillet with baked tomatoes and couscous. This pic does not justice to the real size of the fillet. It was certainly twice a big and as high at the very large tomatoes!

Roasted Duck with its liver and heart.

Escargots with echalottes and garlic confits.
Sorry, after that, I just either could not find the time to take picture,s or I wasn’t “allowed” to do so by my so-friendly siblings.
But have no worry, it will take you quite a few visits to sample everything! And do not forget the desserts!
And the wine list!

Incidentally, Chalon Sur Saone, apart of its very long history as the last port up the Saone River for the last 2,500 years is renown for one very important invention. Can you guess?
-The first-ever picture and camera you can see at the Musee Nicephore Niepce which contains more than two million pictures!

L’Essentiel
14, Rue Strasbourg
71100 Chalon sur Saône, France
Tel: (33)(0)3 85 42 95 75‎

Shizuoka Izakaya: Bu-Ichi (revisited)


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Bu-Ichi Izakaya in Shizuoka City has been a favourite of mine for as long as I can remember. Unfortunately I do not go there that often as it is reserved for my nights out with the Missus (well, too many people know me there, too!)!
Incidentally, the picture above was taken quite some time ago. The Oyakata tends to be dressed in white these days, but last night I told him I preferred him in his blue garb!
Apart of the great Shizuoka Sake list, a customer will find all the drinks he might want, including wine and Okinawa Awamori.
But the main attraction is of course the food:

Tempura and Anago/Conger Eel are two Japanese delicacies known all over the world, but when the two are combined in such delicate, crunchy, succulent manner one just shoud not bother about seasoning or even decoration!

Bu-Ichi acquired its fame because of the superlative seasonal sashimi such as “ainame/greenling or rock trout, a rarity brought all the way from Fukushima Prefecture.

Local fish is represented by “sanma/mackerel pike”. Bu-Ichi serves it in what I think the best way to savour it: thin slices with grated ginger, chopped thin leeks and myoga. The Japanese say “abura ga noote iru”, meaning they are fat. I would translate by “juicy”. The fish just melts in your mouth!

Whenever possible, Bu-Ichi serves local produce such as this beautiful round orange zucchini grown by a farmer in Miwa Cho, Shizuoka City. Which reminds me I have to interview this gentleman who has made Zucchini growing his specialty. Rowena, you would not believe it! Incidentally, have you ever thought of selling shiso in Italy? LOL

They were included in the next Tenpura order. To the Missus’ utter dismay I just ate them with my fingers without bothering about the salt and dip sauce provided!

Despite the heat of the day, we could not resist from ordering a bowl of “Gyu-suji-ni”/Beef joints simmered with miso and vegetables and served with a chopped leeks topping. Foodhoe would scream for it!

Although we did have dessert in the form of “matcha tea ice cream”, we usually have “tamagoyaki/Japanese Omelette” at the end of a dinner in a good izakaya. Big Bill should see the sheer artistry involved in making such a seemingly easy dish! And the taste! I can guarantee you you would be hard put if you had to choose between a second helping and a dessert!

Bu-Ichi
420-0032 Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Ryogae-cho, 1-6-10, Dai 2 Matsunaga Bldg. 2F
Tel.: 054-2521166
Closed on Wednesdays
Reservations advisable