Tag Archives: 美食

Chez Lui: Classic Cake (2)


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Chez Lui, although part of a Tokyo-based chain does offer some creations of their own worth trying now and then.
This particular one is called “Conversation”
Why conversation?

Obviously it was prepared in two steps:
-Cherries were mixed with marzipan inside a thin tart and baked and coled down.
-It was then topped with patterned meringue and baked again.
The end result offers good balance. It is a fulfilling cake in spite of its limited size.
Great with afternoon coffee or tea!

CHEZ LUI
Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Koyamachi, 6-7, Parco, B1
Tel.: 054-9038600
Business hours: 10:00~20:00

Shizuoka Cheese: Gigio Smoked Cheese


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The other day, as I was looking around the supermarket in Kakegawa JR Station, my eyes fell on some cheeses displayed in the refigerated area. As I know that this particular establishment sells solely Shizuoka products I decided to investigate.
I thus discovered a company called Gigio in Hamamatsu City. Upon investigation it turned out to be an Italian Restaurant whose chef makes his own cheese!

Out of its airtght packaging their smoked cheese comes with a nice dark nut colour and an appetizing aroma typical of a smoked cheese.

It also has the merit not to be encased in one of those obnoxious wax casing you have to fight your way through.
It cuts easily in spite of its tenderness, and can be served with salads or other cheese and pickles for example.
It makes for a great morsel with beer as its taste marries really well with the tangy flavour of hops.
I did not try, but next time I shall experiment with pizza or toast or even gratineed vegetables!

Gigio
Hamamatsu City, Naka Ku, Takaoka Kita, 1-48-18
Tel.: 053-4383994
HOMEPAGE (Japanese)

LE CAFE-LABO: Classic Cakes (4)


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LE CAFE-LABO in Shizuoka City, always showing a lot of research has come up with an interesting version of that Japanese favourite: Coffee Jelly!

It is a combination of unsweetened coffee jelly and sweet coffee mousse.
It has been devised so that you can mix both flavours in different amounts with every scoop of the spoon.
It was obviously done in two steps: jelly first until solidified before the mousse was poured in. A bit tricky as the square cup had to be kept secure on an inclined rack.
I wonder what Taste Memory Girl would think of that!

The top Chantilly cream (sweet) could be “kept apart” and mixed in slowly, too.
Extremely refreshing and puzzling in Summer!

LE CAFE-LABO
424-0886 Shizuoka City, Shimizu Ku, Kusanagi, 46
Tel.: 054-3441661
Also available at Isetan Dept. Store, Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Shichiken-Cho

Shizuoka Agricultural Products: Candy Tomatoes


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Shizuoka Prefecture, especially its Western half has acquired a national reputation for its great tomatoes, notably plum tomatoes and “Aamera” varieties.

The other day, as I had some time, I decided to have a look at the small supermarket inside Kakegawa City JR Station as it specializes in Shizuoka Prefecture products from sake to vegetables, jams, spices and a lot more.

I discovered a new variety of tomatoes called “Candy Tomatoes” grown by Mr. Fukuda,a grower established in Kakegawa City.
They not only make for great presentation, but they are very firm, tasty and sweet. I had some difficulty to keep some for the Missus as I wanted to eat them at once!
Problem is that the Missus wants me to get some regularly on my way back from University!

Korreshika Dokoro
Kakegawa City Station
Free dial: 0120-471056

Isojiman Brewery Sake chosen for the G8 Meeting in Hokkaido!


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(Shizuoka Shinbun, July 8th, 2008)

Shizuoka Jizake has finally made the grade!
All these bigwigs on the above pic were served Isojiman Junmai Daiginjo (Isojiman Brewery, yaizu City) at their official banquet held in Hokkaido on July 7th for the G8 Members and their guests.
For the record, they were also served (California) Winery Ridge Vineyards’ California Monte Bello (1997) with Hungarian and French wines.
Looking at the way Mr. Nicolas Sarkozy is “admiring” his cup, I doubt he had a clue about the whole thing! Well, I was not on hand to help him! LOL

I also know that the cheese was served by the only Japanese Chevalier Fromager, Ms. Keiko Kubota from Gentil Restaurant, Shizuoka City!

Three times “Hurrah” for Shizuoka!

Eel/Unagi: Mishima City Unagiya Association vote against using wild eels!


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(Shizuoka Shinbun, July 1st, 2008)

In an unprecedented move (apparently a first in whole Japan), the Mishima City Eel Restaurants/Unagiya Association has voted against serving wild eels, especially the variety known as “shirasu unagi”, to preserve and increase the present stocks which have fallen to an alarming all-time low.
Mishima City is celebrated all over the country as the “eel city” where you can eat the delicacy in all known forms.
Until now, the restaurants would have even accepted to prepare wild eels caught and brought by customers. As the decision has come into force the moment it was voted, do not expect anyone to break the rules!

This is a similar move to the self-imposed quotas decided by the Yui Sakura Shrimps Fishermen Association which led to increased stocks for the benefit of all.

Who said Japan is bent on fishing the oceans dry?

Bryan Baird’s Newsletter


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Baird Beer & Taproom Events Bulletin 2008 #15
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Dear Taproom Friend & Baird Beer Enthusiast:

The waiting is over. Today marks the 2008 release a Baird summer beer icon — Shizuoka Summer Mikan Ale. Extra maturation time in the bottles and kegs renders this 2008 version more special than ever.

A summer mikan (“natsumikan”) is an almost grapefruit-like citrus fruit that is tart and sweetly sour in flavor and gloriously aromatic. The only fruit to make it through the doors of the Baird Brewery, of course, is fresh whole fruit recently plucked from the land. Our summer mikans are Shizuoka-grown, right in the Heda orchard of our carpenter-partner-friend, Mitsuo Nagakura. The bounty of fruit is painstakingly hand-processed by the Baird Brewery team before its introduction both on the hot-side (during wort production) and the cold-side (right into the conditioning tanks along with a dosage of dry hops). The gorgeous new artwork adorning the bottles is the expertise of our wonderfully talented artist and friend, Ms. Eiko Nishida.

Shizuoka Summer Mikan Ale 2008 sports a wheat accented grist bill (German base wheat and specialty caramel wheat along with unmalted Japan wheat) that compliments our workhouse malt — Crisp floor-malted Maris Otter. The hopping is all-citrus and all-American (Centennial, Amarillo, Cascade and Ahtanum). The alcohol is moderately strong around 5.5% ABV. The quenching result is summer paradise in a glass.

Draught Shizuoka Summer Mikan Ale is now available at the Fishmarket Taproom, the Nakameguro Taproom and fine Baird Beer retailing pubs and restaurants throughout Japan. Bottles (633 ml) too are available for purchase through Baird Beer retailing liquor shops and direct from the brewery.

Lastly, please mark your calendar for the upcoming 8-year anniversary extravaganza at the Fishmarket Taproom (Saturday July 19 – Monday, July 21). Monday, July 21, of course, is a Japan national holiday. We will open each day at noon and celebrate with our annual Fruit & Beer Festival, a daily buffet of sumptuous beer-inspired specialty dishes (1,000 yen all-you-can-eat), a downstairs sidewalk barbecue to be manned by a team of passionate patron-volunteers, and casual acoustic jams. Complete event details will be announced early next week.

Cheers!

Bryan Baird

Baird Brewing Company
Numazu, Japan
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Deep-fried Chicken: “Japanese home-made style” (1?)


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(unfortunately, the Missus refused to comply to my request to the point of having a demonstration photographed. This pic of a bento concocted last February will have to suffice till I come up with a more satisfactory solution!)

Me and my big mouth! Why do I have to make promises on somebody else’s behalf when I should know better! LOL.
But a promise is a promise. Even if it took a whole evening, night (do not ask me why or how, uh!), and next (this) morning of badgering a Missus surprised (pleased by?) at the sudden attention!
I know one big guy, namely Bill, who might find himself in the exactly opposite situation. One piece of advice mate, do not give away your little (cooking) secrets all at once and you will find yourself basking in a lot of attention (why am I saying that? No way I will translate that in my Japanese blogs, or our Japanese apartment will become a unilateral point-blank shooting gallery!).
In any case, Rowena, you might need the help of the likes of Taste Memory Girl as far as some ingredients are concerned, unless you want to send a SOS all over Foodbuzz!

The recipe I managed to extract from the Missus is open to variations. Do not hesitate to do your own research and discover new ways, although I can already hear (and welcome) advice from Foodhoe and others!

Ingredients:
-chicken: thigh chicken only. Breast chicken being too lean, you will end up with dry coarse chicken. Thigh chicken contains the right amount of fat to make for juicy morsels. No skin please, as this will become a different recipe I will hopefully explain one day. Enough for at least 5 pieces a person (probably double for me!)
-Marinade: Japanese sake (cheap cooking variety). If unavailable, a strong dry white wine should do. Grated garlic. (Chinese) oyster sauce.
You will have to experiment there as far as the amounts are concerned.
Nota bene: The Missus, depending upon her “mood” will add grated ginger, reduce the oyster sauce and add rice vinegar, sesame oil or Thai Sweet Chili Sauce. Plenty of scope again to please everyone!
-Rice powder, called “yoshinko” in Japanese. I do not know the Chinese or Korean equivalent. That is where you will need a little help from your friends all over the world!
-Cornstarch (katakuriko in Japanese).

No salt or pepper needed. Oyster sauce contains enough salt as it is.

Recipe:
Marinade the chicken cut to pieces with the sake (or wine), grated garlic and oyster sauce (or whatever combination) in a Tupperware (or cellophane paper-covered bowl) in the fridge for at least a night.
“Deep-frying” is actually “shallow-frying” as the Missus uses a large teflon coated pan with just 2 or 3 millimeters of oil. Oil temperature should be around 180 degrees Celsius.
Roll the chicken pieces (do not wipe them, just shake them to get rid of excess liquid) and roll them in a equal mixture of rice powder and cornstarch.
Drop in the pieces and fry until colour start changing. Take them out and put them on sheet of kitchen paper to prevent them from absorbing oil.
Let rest for a minute or two or until you have fried everything once. Fry a second time until the chicken pieces have attained a rich brown colour. Put them on a sheet of paper chicken to absorb excess oil.
Can be served at once, or later in a bento/lunch box after having let them cool down sufficiently.
The Missus will usually serve them with lettuce to wrap chicken in and cut lemon for seasoning.
Again, “depending upon her mood”, she will serve in separate dipping dishes tartare sauce, rice vinegar, Thai Sweet Chili Sauce, or a mixture of mayonnaise and Thai Sweet Chili Sauce!

Enjoy!

Next to come will be recipes for Japanese omelette/Yakitamago as promised to Bill!

Asparaguses Season


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Although the asparaguses season is almost finished in Shizuoka, we still get plenty from other parts of the country as people here show an insatiable taste for them.
The Japanese and Sizuokaites will practically eat only the green variety although the latter does comprise a host of sub varieties. Here the trend is for large specimens like the ones grown in Shimizu Ku as demonstrated in the picture above sauteed with Chinese XO Sauce by Hana Oto Izakaya in Shizuoka City. A way that surely please the likes of Foodhoe and Bill!

Shizuoka ladies do have their own way to cook them. Everyone down here seem to sautee them and Yasatei, for all their very Japanese character, have opted for the Italian way: Akita Prefecture Asparaguses sauteed in olive oil and parmesan cheese!

Villa D’Est Quisine, on the other hand, seems to have opted for a median method of lightly frying Hokkaido asparaguses with olive oil and lean bacon.

In all cases those large green asparaguses combine a outside crunchy texture breaking easily under the teeth to reveal a tender juicy inside! Something difficult to obtain with overcooked lean samples!

HANA OTO
420-0033 Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Ryogae-cho, 3-9, Hoshi Bldg. 1F
Tel.: 054-273-8591
Business hours: 18:00~03:00 (until 05:00 on Fridays and Saturdays)
Closed on Mondays

Yasaitei
Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Tokiwa-Cho, 1-6-2 Green Heights Wamon 1-C
Tel.: 054-2543277
Business haours: 17:30~22:00
Closed on Sundays
Reservations highly recommended

Villa d’Est Quisine
420-0839 Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Takajo, 3-10-1
Tel.: 054-2514763
Business Hours: 17:00~24:00
Closed on Thursdays

Sushi Restaurant: Sushiya No Ichi


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Ken Ichikawa is a bit of character. As a youngster, he actually enjoyed prowling the roads of Shizuoka with other hot rodder friends! He even went as far as Australia for a work stint before coming back to Shizuoka City and open his restaurant.

In spite of this somewhat macho maverick reputation, his sushi are designed for everyone, but with a special thought for calories-conscious ladies who wish to cut on the rice. His offerings are definitely edomae-style sushi.

His sashimi are simply of first and foremost quality. In spite of the consequent prices, you cannot resist the maguro toro and akami (fat and lean parts)!

Shizuoka Katsuo/Bonito has to be perfect as this is THE specialty of Shizuoka Prefecture!

Do not hesitate to ask him about the fish and shellfish (and vegetables!) of the day. He will serve them raw as sashime or sushi, or cook them to perfect simplicity. Try the lightly cooked oysters and ikura/salmon roe mini-donburi!

As for myself, I never fail to ask for his ankimo/Japanese foie gras in season!

When you ask for sushi, Mr. Ichikawa will always propose diverse variations. For example, would you like your hirame/sole with lime and Okinawa snow salt instead of dipping it in the soy sauce?
Would you like the wasabi under or on top of your anago/conger eel? and so on…
Hint: just ask him to prepare two different “kan/piece” of the same fish!
There are so many morsels to try that a single article will not do him justice!
You can expect a few more postings in the near future!

Now, last but not least, Mr. Ichikawa has a great selection of Shizuoka sake, too!
Isojiman (Yaizu City), Kikuyoi (Aoshima Brewery, Fujieda City), Masu-Ichi (Shizuoka City), Shosetsu (Kasawagawa Brewery, Yui Cho) and Kokkou (Fukuroi City)!

What’s better that jizake for sushi, I’m asking you! LOL

Sushiya no Ichi
420-0034 Shizuoka Shi, Tokiwa-cho, 2-7-1
tel.: 054-2558262
fax: 054-2522604
Mobile: 09040874578
Closed on Modays
Parties possible upstairs
Credit Cards OK
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LE-CAFE LABO: Traditional Cakes (2)


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Savarin must be one of the most celebrated cakes all over the world.
Named after the unavoidable Brillat-Savarin, the great gastronome, it has appeared under many guises over the years, but the basics are still the same.

Le-Cafe labo has come with a very Japanese interpretation:
Instead of a single tier, it is built upon two tiers spong cake/gateau de Savoie intesped with custard. Only the bottom tier has been soaked not with usual rum, but with hydromel.
The offering is certainly lighter than the ones back home in France, but nonetheless delicious.
Moreover the orange toppings, one a confit slice, the other one a brulee wedge, is a great find, ensuring a slow savouring of the cake from top to bottom.

Once again, a cake great with coffee (alright, tea is fine, too! LOL)
LE CAFE-LABO
424-0886 Shizuoka City, Shimizu Ku, Kusanagi, 46
Tel.: 054-3441661
Also available at Isetan Dept. Store, Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Shichiken-Cho

Japanese Foie gras: Ankimo and its preparation


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“Ankimo” is the liver of the Frogfish (“anko”), a fish that can be found in most the Northern Hemisphere and elsewhere. Not a nicelooking fish, it is nonetheless appreciated almost everywhere.
The Japanese love it in “nabe” (Japanese-style fish pot au feu), while the French either introduce it in Bouillabaisse, or even better, baked rooled inside prime bacon.

The liver is much appreciated in some countries, especially France and Scandinavia.
In Japan they steam it in sake to make “ankimo”, which I usually introduce to neophytes as “Japanese fish foie gras”!

Pic taken at Yumeshin, Shizuoka City.
I asked for it served (it is a cold appetizer) as it is as “tsumami” (hors d’oeuvre) with “ponzu shoyu”, finely chopped thin leeks and a dash of “Momiji-oroshi” (grated daikon and chili pepper) on a shiso leaf.
It is also great in small pieces on a gunkan topped with the same as above!

As I have been asked again, here is the recipe for making “Ankimo”!
Note that sake can be replaced white wine.

Step 1:

Choose fresh ankimo. That is how it should look!

Step 2:

Take off blood vessels. Don’t worry about the nerves.

Step 3:

After taking blood vessels away it does not look pretty. Nothing to worry about actually!

Step 4:

Lightly salt all sides

Step 5:

Wrap it in cooking wrap and let rest for an hour.

Step 6:

That is how it will look after an hour.

Step 7:

Take off all water and salt with kitchen paper.
Get the teamer ready.

Step 8:

As in the picture place wrap on bamboo roll maker (use a soft plastic sheet if not available). Place the frogfish liver on third of the way as equally as possible.

Step 9:

Roll in carefully, making sure the wrap sheet does not accidentally penetrate the liver.

Step 10:

Twist both ends of the wrap sheet until there is no space left inside.

Step 11:

Cut extremities of the wrap making sure the roll does not unfold and wrap it inside another sheet.

Step 12:

Wrap inside cooking aluminum foil.

Step 13:

Twist ends to close.

Step 14-15-16:

-Put inside steamer and close.
-Cook for 30 minutes above strong heat
-Take off and let cool

Step 17:

For better consistency leave in refrigerator for a full day. Cut slices to your preferred thickness.

Step 18:

(For example) serve astride sliced cucumber, sprinkle it with a generous amount of ponzu shoyu and place half a spoon of “momiji oroshi” (grated daikon seasoned with chili pepper). Finely chopped thin leeks or shiso would make a nice finishing touch, too!

Sushi Restaurant: Ekimae Matsuno Sushi (revisited)


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It had been some time since I last visited this little favourite sushi restaurant of mine in Shizuoka City: Ekimae Matsuno Sushi.
Sunday 22nd was a bit of a horror weatherwise with downpours pelting the city the whole day, which meant all sport activities were out of question.
Sushi is is one rare cuisine you can really appreciate during the rainy season, and since this particular establishment opens for Sunday lunch, I just could not resist the opportunity.
I have many reasons to love this restaurant:

They serve Shizuoka sake. On this day I ordered Chumasa Junmai Ginjo by Yoshiya Brewery (Shizuoka City). Absolutely perfect with sushi!
Moreover, because they serve real sushi, not conveyor-belt or what else, only real sushi lovers patronize the place.

Their sashimi sets make use of seasonal fish only and most from Suruga Bay in Shizuoka Prefecture:
Left top, a triangle of 3 varieties: Madai Seabream (top angle), Suzuki/Seabass (left angle) and Onikasa/Scorpion Fish variety.
Right top: Aji/Saurel-Pike mackerel
Bottom left: Torigai/Surf Clam
Bottom right: Katsuo/Bonito

If you happen to be a regular, all kinds of tidbits come either free or at ridiculous prices:
-Konbujime Kisu/Sand borer marinated in seaeed
-Negima. Negima by definition is a piece of tuna (“maguro”) on a skewer with a piece of leek (“negi”), hence the combination of the two as negima (lee + tuna), and not the pork and leeks brochettes served at izakaya in spite of their borrowed name!
-Ni Iwashi. Sardines are season now and are very fat, making them pefect for a bit of simmering!
-Shoga Gari: Fresh ginger root pickled in umesu/plum vinegar.

Their “Tamagoyaki/Japanese Omelette is absolutely superb and I never miss an opportunity to savour it, however full I may be!

Allison and Rowena would cross the Ocean for it!

Vegetarians and even vegans would not be at a loss with gobo/burdock root and Kampyo/Gourd shavings Maki!

Can’t wait for the next visit!

Ekimae Matsuno Sushi
Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Oyuki Cho, 9-3 (just across from Shizuoka JR Station North Exit after Matsuzakaya Dept)
Tel.: 054-2510123
Business hours: 11:00~21:00
Closed on Wednesdays
Credit Cards OK
HOMEPAGE (Japanese)

Bryan Baird’s Newsletter


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Baird Beer & Taproom Events Bulletin 2008 #14
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Dear Taproom Friend & Baird Beer Enthusiast:

The Japan sky is everyday grey and heavy with rain, or so it seems, in this annual season of “Tsuyu.” Could there be a finer time to plant oneself on a comfortable stool in a friendly pub and contemplate life while enjoying a pint or two of flavorful ale? Rainy Season Black Ale and Saison Sayuri insist the answer is “no.”

(1) Rainy Season Black Ale (ABV 6.3%):

A torrential downpouring of hops define this otherwise roasty, toasty, espresso-like powerful black ale. 80 BUs of American lupulin as well as dry-hopped character from citrus-laden Anthanum, Cascade and Amarillo hops coat the tongue with a resinous stickiness that is pungently pleasurable. This is the Baird Beer antidote to the rainy season funk. We guarantee the results!

(2) Saison Sayuri (ABV 5.3%):

Saison means “season” and this family of beers is thought to have originated in Wallonia in southern Belgium. Saisons were brewed in the winter at farmhouse breweries for the summer consumption by thirsty farmhands. While there is no exact flavor profile or processing technique that define Saison stylistically, common traits exist (e.g. relatively pale in color, moderate in alcohol, refreshing in a dry or sour type of way, etc.). Often spices and ingredients uncommon to beer but
otherwise readily available on the farm are incorporated. Saisons are thus typically Belgian in their funkiness and individuality.

Saison Sayuri is like its namesake — a fascinating admixture of down-to-earth simplicity and understated complexity. This second annual version is brewed with pale base malts, unmalted wheat, a touch of chocolate wheat for color and Japanese sudakito sugar. Additions of Japanese kinkan fruit and natsumikan peels lend complexity and a sort of “je ne sais pas” character. Fermented this year with a yeast derived from the famous Saison Dupont brewery, Saison Sayuri is less phenolically sweet than last year. She remains, though, her charming and beguiling self.

Both ales are available on tap at the Fishmarket and Nakameguro Taprooms as well as other Baird Beer retailing pubs and restaurants. 633 ml bottles are available for purchase at Baird Beer retailing liquor stores as well as direct from the brewery. Get ’em while the gettin’ is good!

Cheers!
Bryan Baird

Baird Brewing Company
Numazu, Japan
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Chez Lui: Classic Cake (1)


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Here is a cake that will definitely tempt Memory Taste Girl’s appetite!
It has the added particularity that its name features my birthplace!
Chez Lui is a large “chain company” based in Tokyo and represented at Parco in Shizuoka City.
Their cakes have the merit to be made on site and some do deserve a mention!

Its name?
Bourgogne Noir Dijon.
Definitely a Japanese way of naming a cake!
It contains a lot of Cassis Liqueur which explains the mention of the Bourgogne Region and its capital, Dijon ( a bit of an oxymoron, I’m afraid). It just happens that I was born in the “City of the Dukes”!
It is mainly made up of Cassis Mousse coated with Cassis Coulis and decorated outside with white chocolate. It is furthermore topped with blueberry, blackberry, mint and chocolate.

The inside is pretty complex with a double base of almond biscuit and chocolate short cake.
A small chocolate short cake disc about two thirds of the cake in diameter has been “inserted” inside the mousse with some Creme Chantilly.

Quite sophisticated and delicious. To appreciate with coffee or liqueur!

CHEZ LUI
Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Koyamachi, 6-7, Parco, B1
Tel.: 054-9038600
Business hours: 10:00~20:00