Tag Archives: 日本

Shellfish Species 3: Oysters/Kaki

Oysters! One would be hard put to find a produce from the sea more internationally recognized as a gourmet’s choice! Moreover, it is the only shellfish you coul survive on if you get marrooned on a desert island! It is a complete food in irself if consumed raw.
For a long time (that is before coming to Japan), I had thought that my country, France, was the place to eat them. Well, I must admit it was a little pretentious from me, especially in the light that more than half of the oysters consumed back at home originated from Japan!

Now the Japanese has come with many ways of appreciating them:
-As in the picture above they would eat them as sashimi with a dash of wasabi and soy sauce.

-Or just a little lemon juice as in Euope, Americas or Oceania.

-Or in another japanese fashion, with ponzu and momijioroshi (succulent!)

-Or, and here Japanese and foreigners are simply crazy about them, as “kakifrai”, deep-fried oysters in batter and breadcrumbs with a nice tartare sauce!

-Or finally, and I would recommend the experience to all foreigners, as “kaki-gohan”, either with oysters steamed together with the rice, or cooked apart in light broth poured over a bowl of freshly steamed rice!

Of course, any good sushi restaurants will serve oysters as nigiri or gunkan!

In Japan, oysters come from various areas, mainly Hiroshima, Iwate and so on.
As for Shizuoka Prefecture, oysters mainly come from Hamanako inland sallted lake near Hamamatsu City.

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Shellfish Species 2: Scallops/Hotategai

hotategai.jpg

Hotategai, or Scallops, is another worldwide favourite and also a source of dispute caused by illegal poaching, international or domestic.
The season is summer and the shellfish is sometimes called Akitagai, as of Akita Prefecture.
They are caught off Hokkaido, Aomori, Iwate and Miyagi Prefectures.
The domestic production/catch is over 300.000 tonnes a year, while 400 tonnes are imported from China as whole Scallops and 700 tonnes as the muscle part only (“kaibashira”). Japanese scallops will be significantly larger than the Chinese.

Of course, they are much appreciated as sashimi, but also as sushi:
HOTATENIGIRI
(pic taken at Sushi Ko in Shizuoka City)

They are also much appreciated cooked/grilled in the shell with just a little shoyu and sake:
HOTAGE-GRILLED

Actually, a good-class sushi restaurants will serve the muscle part as sashimi or sushi, and will serve the rest of the shellfish cooked in light broth inside the shell later!

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Shellfish Species 1: Abalone/Awabi

AWABI-KURO-2
Kuro Awabi/”Black Abalone

With the weather definitely turning hotter, the first abalones or “awabi” start appearing on the markets.
The Japanese are great connoisseurs and amateurs of abalones, and they do have to import a lot to satisfy their demand!
There amany varieties of different quality avalaible inthe markets and restaurants.
Most are eaten raw, especially as sushi on nigiri!

AWABI-KURO-1
Kuro Awabi/”Black Abalone”

As for the main varieties, you can sample expensive Kuro Awabi or “Black Abalones”

AWABI-EZO-1

Another expensive variety is Ezo Awabi/”Ezo Abalone”

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Ezo Awabi as sushi.

Lesser varieties include:

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Madaka Awabi

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Madaka Awabi as sushi

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Megai Awabi

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Megai Awabi as sushi.

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Victoria Awabi imported from Australia.

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Victoria Awabi as sushi.

Do not forget that catching abalones in a ny place in Japan without a proper license is a severly punished poaching offense!

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Chicken Ham: Recipe

CHICKEN-HAM-SALAD

Following queries by Jenn and the unamed-yet friend at Food to Make you Miss your Plane about the Missus’ chicken Ham included in some of my bentoes, I decided to do some personal research (complemented by some comments from the Missus who is very cagey about her own recipes!).

CHICKEN-HAM-ROLL1

Now, the following recipe is for Chicken Ham in the shape of a “ham”.
Natyrally, you can, like the Missus keep the original shape of the chicken breast.

CHICKEN-HAM-SALAD-2

You can slice or shred the chicken as shown above in the combination chicken/avocado salad. Variations are almost endless!

Ingredients:
-One large chicken breast: 250g
-Sugar: 1 large tablespoon
-Coarse salt-black pepper mixture: 1 large tablespoon

Recipe:

CHICKEN-HAM-RECIPE-1
Get rid of all skin and fat.
“Puncure” chicken shallowly on both sides.

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Sprinkle sugar on both sides and

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throughly brush it in on both sides.

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repeat procedure with coarse salt-black pepper mixture.
Water will start oozing out.

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Tightly seal inside zip-lock type vinyl envelope and leave it 48 hours inside the fridge (Get as much air out as possible before sealing!).

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After the first 24 hours inside the fridge, throw out the water that has accumulated, reseal and put back inside the fridge.

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That’s how it looks when you take it out of the fridge after 48 hours.

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Take chicken ou, clean lightly with running water, and then let it rest in clear water for 30 minutes to get rid of the excess salt.

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Take out of water and carefully get the chicken rid of water with kitchen paper.

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“Roll” the chicken breast into a “hm” shape and secure it with a wooden toothpick 8avoid any contact with naked metal!).

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Bind the chicken with cooking thread tightly until you have attained a ham shape. Take toothpick out and discard.

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Wrap tightly into cellophane paper.

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Wrap into foil paper twice.
Note: the Missus does not wrap it into anthing and just lowly directly boil the chicken into chicken bouillon.

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In a big enough pan bring water to boil.

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Put the foil paper-wrapped chicken inside water and switch off fire.

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Cover with lid and leave it as it it is for 7~8 hours.
Take chicken out with its foil paper and let it rest inside fridge for 24 hours.
Note: The Missus will put the chicken and the whole broth inside a Tupperware box before puttin it inside the fridge.

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Get Chicken ham out. Discard foil paper and thread.

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Cut it to your liking.

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Serve.
That is when the fun starts!
Great as salads, in sandwiches and of course bentoes!

Note: The Missus sometimes, as an extra last step, smokes the whole chicken in green tea leaves!

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TAKY’S classic Cakes (9): Buche Pistache

TAKYS-PISTACCHIO2

I have just discovered another new creation by talented Takuya Hanai and served it to two of my students today. The beginning of the week is always a good time as Mr. Iwai tries his new cakes out then!
I don’t have to tell you I have to keep a constant lookout as this talented and still young patissier.

“Buche” means a French roll cake in the form and shape of a wooden log, although it would be half a log in this cake. This why it caught my eye as I tend to avoid full rounded roll cakes.

TAKYS-PISTACCHIO1

It is another marvel as you go through all kinds of textures and falvours!
From bottom to top (although you will probably appreciate it theother way round):
-Thin flat base layer of chocolate sponge cake containing dry cherries and flavoured with cherry liqueur.
-Pistacchio Mousse. very elegant, light and very feminine in concept.
-Chocolate Sponge Cake, simple and light.
-Chocolate Mousse, creamy and savoury.
-A layer of Chocolate Ganache, firm, hard and crispy enough to incite you to break through it!

To appreciate with a great coffee or English tea!

TAKY’S
420-0839 Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Takajo, 1-11-10
Tel.: 054-255-2829
Opening hours: 11:00~22:00
Closed on Sundays

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Vegetables Facts and Tips (13): Salicorne

SALICORNE-1

I decided to run this posting on this rare vegetable following a query from my dear friend Jenn.

Salicorne has a slightly salty with a fresh, not overpowering, herbal taste. It grows exceptionally well in salt marshes and can sometimes be harvested under wharves. Although salicorne is a weed and does grow by the sea, it does not look like seaweed. It is more like a sprig off a tree with small dark green fleshy branches.
Apparently they are grown or collected in France onlyalong its Westen and Northern shores.

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Salicorne has no comfortable English name. Some call it sea asparagus, and it does have a little of the sweet flavour of that vegetable. It is also known as slender glasswort, La salicorne, or criste-marine and perce-pierre in French. Its etymology is actually the Arabic word: “salcoran”. It is also thought to mean salt (sali) horn (corne) in French. So salicorne is how it is usually called in English and French.

It is exported to Canada fresh, pickled or in cans.
Human-grown as opposed to natural salicorne is better suited for cooking as it does not include all kinds of unwanted twigs and other unrelated plants when harvested in the wild.

Vegetarians and vegans can eat it fresh as it is, in salads or as pickles.

SALICORNE-3

Cooking/cuisine suggestion:
Smoked herring marinated in Salicorne cream:
Place 250 g of smoked herring in a deep oven dish. Cover fish with milk and let marinate for 2 hours. Drain and take moisture out by placing fish on kitchen paper.
Put them back inside the oven dish and cover with whote wine. Let them marinate again for 2 hours.
Drain them and cut the fish acrss into slices 2 or 3 cm thick.
Place te fish slices in a terrine dish, alternating them with thin slices of onion and carrot, a few parsley leaves, a branch of thyme and a leaf of laurel both chopped fine, some pepper and a tablespoon of finely cut wakame/Japanese seaweed. Cover with olive oile and let marinate inside fridge for 4~5 hours.
Take out a dozen sprigs of vinegared salicorne (canned), cut them finaly and mix them into a bowl of fresh cream that one can use later at will.
Place herring, onions and carrots on a dish with a little oil from the marinade.
Serve with hot boiled potatoes!

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Today’s Lunch Box/Bento (’09/32)

BENTO-09-05-11a

Today’s bento was a simple affair or quick fix: Open Muffin Sandwiches.

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The Muffins were “English” made in Japan. They had been toatsed for consistency.
As for the filling: lettuce almost everywhere, potato and green peas salad, home-made chicken ham with British chutney, French pickles, black olives, mini tomatoes, and dark cherries (imported)

Was still a bit hungry after that!

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Bryan Baird’s Newsletter (2009/12)

Baird Beer & Taproom Events Bulletin 2009 #12
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Dear Taproom Friend & Baird Beer Enthusiast:

The onset of this sultry, summer-like weather seems the perfect opportunity to release two extremely quenching Baird Beer seasonals: Saison Sayuri & European Summer Ale.

*Saison Sayuri 2009 (ABV 5.5%):

Saison is an idiosyncratic Belgian-style beer of moderate strength that tends to be spicy and highly refreshing. Sayuri, of course, is my wife and partner and matron saint of Baird Beer. Saison Sayuri is my annual birthday tribute to this lovely woman. The 2009 version is brewed with small spice-like additions of the peels and fresh juice of local daidai citrus fruit and is fermented with a combination of two highly characterful Belgian yeast strains. The result is a piquantly quenching brew that still manages a great, albeit understated, depth of character. Saison Sayuri is available on draught at our Taprooms and at other excellent Baird Beer retailing pubs in Japan. It also is being sold by fine liquor stores in Japan in 633 ml bottles.

*European Summer Ale (ABV 5.5%):

This is an English-style summer ale brewed with English malts but hopped with German and Czeh hop varieties (Hallertau Tradition, Hallertau Hersbrucker and Czeh Saaz). It is playful and zesty in the mouth and sports a wonderfully floral, herbal hop aroma. This small-batch brew is available only on hand-pump as Real Ale at our Nakameguro and Fishmarket Taprooms. Come in for a pint or three while the gettin’ is good.

Cheers,
Bryan Baird

Baird Brewing Company
Numazu, Japan
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The Japan Blog List

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Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery
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Sushi Restaurant: Sushi Ko (revisited)

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As advertised on Foodbuzz, I finally managed to drag the Missus to a belated visit of our favourite Sushi Restaurant in Shizuoka City: Sushi Ko!
I also succeeded in persuading the Missus in helping me with the pics. I hope this will become useful with friends who need information!

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As we are just in season we started with katsuo/bonito. Maybe I told you that the best bonito is caught by fishermen from Shizuoka Prefecture who bring it to the Harbours of Numazu and Yaizu!
Notice the shiso/perilla flower sprig!

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Every time, and I say every time, we visit Sushi Ko, the Missus must have deep-fried tuna served with momijioroshi (grated daikon with cayenne pepper)! Alright, it’s a great morsel, indeed!

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Kawahagi/Filefish is in season, too.
We asked Mr. Oda to serve it as to serve it as tsukuri:

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You roll a few pieces around a couple of hosonegi/thin leek and dip it in a sauce made with the fresh raw liver of the fish and some soy sauce and sake (see pic at the top)!

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The “jowls” came later deep-fried!

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I then challenged Mr. Oda to serve us one of his vegetarian sushi set:
Menegi/dwarf leek, Soba Me/Buckwheat Sprouts, Mitsuba/Trefoil, Kawaire Daikon!

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Maguro Zuke/Marinated raw tuna. Another specialty of the house!

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Kujira/Whale meat. Shizuoka Prefecture is one of the rare places where you can find it in Japan!

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Sakura Ebi/Cherry Shrimps, fresh from Yui as gunkan. Can be found in that state only in Shizuoka Prefecture!

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Pirikara Hotate Maki/Hot Scallops Roll. Another specialty of the house. American Friends, I can hear you salivating (drooling)!

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Tamagoyaki! Cute, ain’t it?

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Ikura no Mini Donburi/Mini bowl of salmon roe!

We did drink a lot, and only ate that. Mind you, we came back home full and content!

Sushi Ko
shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Ryogae-cho. 2-3-1 (Aoba Koen)
Tel.: 054-2512898
Business Hours: 17:00~25:00. 17:00~23:00 (Sundays)
Closed on Wednesdays
Reservations recommended
Credit cards OK
HOMEPAGE (Japanese)

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Vegetables Facts and Tips (9/2): Japanese Cultivated Mushrooms

mushrooms-market

Mushrooms at Supermarket in Shizuoka City

This the second part concerning edible mushrooms in general.
Instead of going through one by one, which might turn into a boring chore, let me show what is available in Japan!

I don’t intend to talk about wild mushrooms here as I would need a very thick book to post!

Japan is arguably the country cultivating the greatest number of varieties (new ones appear and disappear every year!), so I will limit myself to give information on the varieties I have found so far in Japanese supermarkets (most of them should be available in many countries.
Note that the names are in Japanese as most are marketed this way abroad.

ERINGE or ERINGI
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Very interesting mushrooms as they keep firm and lose only some of their volumes. Vegetarians can prepare them suteed like scallops!

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As sold in the supermarkets

TAMOGITAKE
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As found in the nature

efbd94efbd81efbd8defbd8fefbd87efbd89efbd94efbd81efbd8befbd85efbc92
As human-grown.

tamogitake3
As sold in the supermarkets
Very elegant small mushroom

KIKURAGE

kikurage
Called Judas Ear, as sold in the supermarkets.

BUNAPII

mushrooms-hara
As found in the supermarkets. A rcent variety!

BROWN MUSHROOM

mushrooms-brown
Brown Mushrooms are called so in Japan. Ther are a variety of Agaricus originall imported from Canada.
As found in the supermarkets.

TAMPA SHIMEJI

mushrooms-tampa
A variety of Shimeji.
As foundin the Supermarkets.

HON-SHIMEJI

mushrooms-honshimeji
“True” Shimeji as found in the supermarkets.

PORTOBELLA MUSHROOM

portobella-mushroom
A universally loved mushroom.
As found in the supermarkets.

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Before being cooked!

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As prepared by Tetsuya Sugimoto!

NAMEKO

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As found in nature.

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As sold in the supermarkets.

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Grown in earthenware bottles.

BUNA-SHIMEJI

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As found in nature.

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Human-grown ans as sold in the supermarkets.

ENOKITAKE

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As found in nature.

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As fully human-grown.

enokitakejapanesemushroom
As very youn human-grown and usually sold in the supermarkets. Very popular in soups, nabe and sukiyaki.

HIRATAKE

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Also called Oyster Mushrooms as found in nature.

hiratake1
Human-grown.

MUKITAKE

mukitake
As found in nature.

Will keep looking for more!

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JAPAN-I: The new source of information for Visitors in Japan!

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A new Website and Magazine called Japan-I was born in January this year and has been fast becoming the perquisite for newcomers and residents alike in Japan!

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The free magazine, both available in English and Chinese (180,000 copies) is available in Tokyo at main airports and stations, and will be on stands in other airports soon, including Mount Fuji Shizuoka Airport!

As for the website, it provides information in English, Korean, Mainland Chinese and Taiwan Chinese.

All articles and information are exclusively written by residents in Japan, offering veracity, authenticity and invaluable service for all!

If the tabloid is not available in your region, contact the editors at ad-info@japan-i.jp!

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Green Tea: New Green Tea being harvested and sold in Shizuoka Prefecture!

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(Courtesy of Shizuoka Shimbun)

Shizuoka Prefecture produces 50% of all green tea grown in Japan.
“Shinsha”/New Tea is being harvested in earnest and sold after a long wait!

Picture above shows tea being handpicked in Kawane, Shimada City, home of some of the best green tea in Jaapn, along the railway line used by the Oikawa Steam Locomotive, one of the very few left in Japan!

Tea is being dry-roasted (picture left bottom) , and auctioned (picture right bottom) in Shizuoka City.

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Sakura Ebi/Cherry Shrimps: Drying Season has started!

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(Courtesy of Shizuoka Shimbun)

The drying season for Sakura Ebi/Cheery Shrimps exclusively caught in ShizuokaPrefecture has started.

Above picture was taken in Shizuoka City, Shimizu Ku, Kanbara along the Fujikawa River where the shrimps are laid to dry while the weather is warm and dry before being delivered all over Japan!

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Bryan Baird’s Newsletter (2009/11)

Baird Beer & Taproom Events Bulletin 2009 #11
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Dear Taproom Friend & Baird Beer Enthusiast:

We are excited to inaugurate Golden Week with the release of three Baird spring seaonal brews: (1) Temple Garden Yuzu Ale, (2) Bureiko Jikan Strong Golden Ale and (3) Love Potion Ale.

*Temple Garden Yuzu Ale (ABV 6.5%):

Yuzu is a Japanese citron fruit the aroma of which is gorgeously spicy and the juice lemon-like tart. This sprite, yet fairly strong ale, is fruited with yuzu and hopped in a complimentary way. This is a perfect spring libation.

*Bureiko Jikan Strong Golden Ale (ABV 7.6%):

This Belgian-inspired ale, fermented with our non-Belgian house ale yeast, is wickedly strong in a wickedly stealthy sort of way. Brewed exclusively with base malts and Japanese sudakito sugar, the body is light relative to the firm bready-malty flavor. The unique hop aroma comes courtesy of a combination of Vanguard and Santiam hops. This brew is designed to facilitate the release of inhibitions (and with no recriminations, guaranteed!).

*Love Potion Ale (ABV 7.5%):

Good beer is the lubricant to many wonderful things, none more important than love. Baird Beer and The Taproom played a lubricating role in the love and recent matrimony struck between two great friends and patrons — Seiji and Naomi. Love Potion Ale, dark in color and strong in alcohol, is surprisingly sprite and wonderfully aromatic. It is at once playful and provocative yet strong and substantive — much like the love in a good relationship. Enjoy a pint in toast to Seiji and Naomi!

All three ales will be pouring from our Taproom taps beginning Saturday, May 2 (Love Potion is available exclusively on draught at the Fishmarket and Nakameguro Taprooms). Temple Garden Yuzu Ale will be available on draught and bottles at restaurants and retailers throughout Japan beginning Sunday, May 3. Bureiko Jikan Strong Golden Ale is draught-only but will be available at fine Baird Beer retailers throughout Japan beginning May 3.

Nakameguro Taproom anniversary reminder:

Nakameguro Taproom 1-Year Anniversary Celebration

The Nakameguro Taproom will be celebrating its one-year anniversary on the weekend of Saturday-Sunday, May 9-10. It will be open from noon each day offering 700 yen pint and 500 yen half-pint prices on all Baird Beer (Numazu prices), including the 1-Year Anniversary Ale (an original fruited-ale brewed with pomegranate from California), and featuring a terrific beer-inspired buffet (all-you-can-eat) for 1,500 yen per person. Sayuri and I will be there welcoming guests and celebrating the ocassion on Saturday and lingering on to tap the debut keg of Saison Sayuri 2009 on Sayuri’s birthday, Sunday, May 10.

When: Saturday – Sunday (May 9-10) (noon until midnight)
Where: Nakameguro Taproom (Nakameguro, Tokyo)
Food: Original Beer Inspired Buffet (all-you-can-eat) @ 1,500 yen per person
Beer: 700 yen pint and 500 yen half-pint prices on all Baird Beer (May 9 debut of Nakameguro 1-Year Anniversary Ale; May 10 debut of Saison Sayuri 2009)
Reservations: Not Necessary

Cheers,
Bryan Baird

Baird Brewing Company
Numazu, Japan
HOMEPAGE


The Japan Blog List

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Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery
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sake, shochu and sushi

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Today’s Lunch Box/Bento (’09/31)

bento-09-05-01a

Today’s bento was “Catch the Train Bento”!
I have to take the train to go and teach at University on Friday afternoons. Usually the Missus makes sandwiches for my trip. But she had forgotten to buy bread! Therefore I ended up with a classic trip bento!

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She steamed the rice with large fresh green peas to make big musubi/rice balls.

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As for the accompaniment, she improvised with was left inthe refrigerator:
Lettuce, mini tomatoes, French pickles, tamagoyaki containing finely chopped thin leeks, fried eringi mushrooms, boiled sweet peas intheir pods, and fried bacon and white asparagus rolls.

A quick fix, maybe, but a pretty satisfying bento!

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