Tag Archives: 日本料理

Sushi and Sashimi: Eat Local!

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Saurel pike/Aji from Suruga Bay, Shizuoka Prefecture

Very few people will disagree with the notion that Japan is the ideal place to discover and savour sushi and sashimi in the whole world. Nevertheless, there are a few rules of the thumb to respect even in this gastronomic paradise.
The overriding rule is that you should try and eat only local fish or seafood.
Tsukiji might be considered a sushi paradise by Tokyoites, but the cheap prices enjoyed by tourists cannot conceal the reality: the fish and seafood are “imported” from all over Japan and beyond!
More than often, Edomae (Tokyo) sushi is nothing but a clever way to “dress up” ingredients to lure officionados (and customers) into believing they are eating top quality sushi (with the consequent prices).
Now, if you have the chance and time to explore Japan beyond Tokyo, you will discover an unfathomable treasure trove of gastronomic pleasure and knowledge!
After all, this country is a vast archipelago stretched across greatly different seas and climates, making for a diversity difficult to equal.
So, even if you cannot possibly explore all the shores of this nation, make a point to learn about the food available wherever you choose to stay.
The same goes for residents, not only for their own sake, but for that of their visitors and friends!

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Sushi set with fish all caught in Suruga Bay, Shizuoka Prefecture

You also ought to do some homework. Sushi chefs worthy of their salt will be only too happy to answer questions to genuinely interested customers and come up with revelations of their own.
As an example to illustrate the need for some basic knowledge, in Hokkaido “oyakodon” is not cooked chicken and omelette on a bowl of rice, but raw salmon and its roe spread on top the same bowl of rice!
Likewise, the same fish will more than often be sold under a myriad of names.
Many morsels will not be found anywhere else as “sakura ebi/cherry shrimps” and fresh”shirasu/sardine whiting” in Shizuoka Prefecture.
Sashimi in most cases has to be perfectly fresh as typified by “kubiore saba” in Yakushima Island where fishermen break the neck (“kubiore”) of mackerels (“saba”) to preserve their quality upon catching. The same fish will be served within a few hours, or less, on the local tables.
On the other hand, tuna sashimi is best consumed after ripening for a few days in a refrigerator.
In Hokkaido, large shrimps, especially “botan ebi” will be served only raw, whereas “kuruma ebi” will be first boiled in other regions.

If you ask for “tataki”, make sure it means the whole fish, especially “aji/mackerel pike” that will be served finely cut as tartare atop the dressed fish.

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Flying Fish/Tobiuo sashimi from Yakushima Island

On the other hand, sushi follows different rules.
Fish and seafood placed on “donburi” (bowl) are usually of the freshly brought variety but fish served as nigiri is prepared in a different way.
The greatest sushi (and this cannot be done in Tsukiji!) are made with fish which has been gutted and cleaned live within seconds, then dressed into strips/fillets left to mature in a refrigerator on clean cloth/kitchen paper. This can be done only with fish caught locally!
The same obviously goes with shellfish and other marine ceatures: One cannot sample better “uni/sea urchin” away from Hokkaido or sakura ebi from Shizuoka.

Vegan and vegetarians, upon finding a restaurant willing to satisfy their priorities should also ask for food grown locally, a search easier than one might think at first as there are many non-meat eaters in this mainly Budhist country.
The same vegetables will make for the perfect combination when associated with local fish!

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Tea as Food!

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(from top middle, clockwise: Salted Cuttle fish marinated in tea leaves and rice yeast, conger eel pike and urchin in green tea jellied fish broth, tea leaves walnut tofu curd, tuna simmered in green tea with tea leaves dumpling cake, matsutake mushroom cooked in tea leaves)

Tea is mainly known as a drink all over the World in spite of puddings and a limited variety of desserts made with red or green tea.
Shizuoka Prefecture where more than 50% of all green tea in Japan has witnessed some gastronomic research by local chefs of all leanings and events have regularly been organised to share the information and skills.

Fugetsuro is one of the restaurants in Shizuka holding such welcome events:

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Above is a view of a dinner Mr. Hitoshi Yamada, Master Chef at Fugetsuro was asked to design for some 120 guests with the overriding concept that tea must be included in all dishes.

Including the first dish described above, the menu ran as follows (I let you judge!)
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Raw fish assortment: Tuna, seabream, sole, seasoned with fresh tea, edible flowers, salt and soy sauce.

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Surugani: tea sob/buckwheat noodles, seabream cooked in whole rice, “kouyou” carrot, tea leaves.

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Oven-baked black pork seasoned with tea, five color vegetables, tea sauce.

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Tofu bean curd and whole rice Pouch, deep-fried tea leaves. Seasoned with
“macha” tea salt.

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Autumn salmon marinate in seaweed and tea, yuuba/bean curd sheet. Seasoned with golden vinegar.

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Tea rice, salmon roe, soup.

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Persimmon, grape, “macha” tea Bavarois, green tea cube jelly.

Fugetsurou
420-0852 Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Koya Machi, 11-1
Tel.: 054-2526500
Fax: 054-2528411
Homepage (Japanese)

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Japanese Izakaya: Uzu (’09/09/13)

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Vegetables Shabu shabu

Service: excellent, easy-going and very friendly
Facilities: great washroom, great cleanliness overall
Prices: very reasonable, good value.
Strong points: Very fresh local ingredients especially organic vegetables extensively used.

I said before that Uzu was bound the become an addicton!
The difference is that the Missus shares the same addiction!
Accordingly we felt it was about time we checked the menu as it always a seasonal one.

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The “0-toshi”, or a snack served automatically with the first drink order, is clearly representative of Uzu, not only as far as food is concerned, but also because all earthenware and glassware are made by local artists!
Did you notice the size of the boiled peanuts/
Yes, they are eaten boiled in Shizuoka and make for a healthier todbit than the usual roasted variety. These jumbo-sized ones are grown near Mount Fuji!

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As for the sashimi plate we chose local fish including beni matsu/salmon trout raised in Fujinomiya City at the foot of Mount Fuji, Hanadai and Hondai, both varieties of groupers.

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As for tempura,wewere told that a batch of wild mushrooms had just arrived.
No need to say we needed to be asked again.
Giant Enokitake, Shimejitake and Maitake!

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But the star of the evening was the organic (all local) vegetables sgabu shabu (you will served seaweed/konbu dashi for it if you order so!)
Frankly speaking I did not havethe time to ask about thevegetables in detail as the Missus could not wait! Jut let me say they included red sweet potato and that they were a discovery!

Looking forward to the next one!
Incidentally the Missus had beer and white wine while I sipped local sake…

UZU
Shizuoka City, Otowa-cho, 3-18
Tel.: 054-249-6262
Business hours: 17:00=23:00
Closed on Mondays and first Tuesday
Reservations recommended
Credit cards OK

HOMEPAGE (Japanese)
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Marine Life Sustainability and Stock Preservation in Japan

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Foodbuzz never asked me for such an article. I just wrote it first out of concern for some of my Foodbuzz Friends!

It was Lou-Ann‘s surprise in particular which originally prompted me into investigation to back up knowledge acquired though many years spent in this great country, Japan. It is the second time I publish this article as it has become more of actuality and new information has been made available.

I use the word “great” when applied to Japan for a simple reason:
Japan is the one country which most extensively conducts and sponsors research and development of fish stocks.
This country has also come up with some momentous discoveries related to the fishing environment:
-Japanese fishermen south of Kyushu Island discovered that planting trees on small islands increased manifold the amount of vegetal plankton carried into the surrounding sea resulting in an immediate increase of the fish population.
-Japanese researchers found out that building small pyramids on the sea floor with concrete or plastic (a beneficial dumping at last?) blocks attracted corals, sea anemones, seaweed and shellfish, thus creating a food chain for fish. Such pyramids will surely prove more beneficial to mankind than all the Egyptian pyramids put together!
They have also realised that dragging out sunk ships was not needed as the same lost vessels were populated by all kinds of marine life!
In the north of Japan crab stocks are been replenished by simply sinking giant scaffolds to the bootom of the sea, thus providing the delicious critters with the subtarreanean geography they love best!
Sakura ebi/Cherry shrimps fishermen in Yui (Shizuoka Prefecture again!) syphon the shrimp out of the nets before opening and releasing all other marine lie safely back into the sea!

The Japanese have been (unjustly) accused of emptying the seas. Actually Spain holds the world record for fish catch and consumption.
I already have written an article on whale meat. I find it galling that Japan is villified for eating whale meat by the very countries which depopulated the globe of sea-mammals in the 19th Century: US, Canada, Russia, Australia and New Zealand (alright, Great Britain for the last two maybe!) in the Pacific Ocean. US, Canada, Norway, Great Britain, France, Spain and Russia in the Atlantic Ocean. And most of them again in the Arctic and Antarctic Oceans. What do you think Commodore Perry was before he was delegated to order Japan to “open its doors”?
This country is repeatedly thrown into the same basket of evils. I was recently “told off” because the Japanese kill sharks for their fins before throwing the dead fish back into the sea. Sorry, mate, but you will have to ask the Chinese! The Japanese eat the whole fish when they catch it and make kamaboko from it!

It could go on and on, but this was never the real purpose of this article.

Now, to illustrate and justify the heading of this posting, here is a list of the fish and seafood raised in Japan as opposed to being caught in the wild:

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Blue Fin Tuna/Honmaguro

Yes, you read it, Blue Fin Tuna! After 23 years of experimentation, a Kyushu fishmonger has finally succeeded in producing the fish from natural mating inside giant offshore sea parks. The fish is already sold over the counter at supermarkets.
No later than last year the Tokai Marine University in Shimizu, Shizuoka City (I live in a great place, don’t I?) also succedein a more sientific manner the raising of the same tuna from the egg, promising that domestic Blur Fin Tuna will roam the same waters in Suruga bay as their wild cousins!
With a ban on tuna fishing in the Mediterranean Sea being pushed through legislation by the EU, Japan will find itself one day in the rich position of actually exporting tuna!

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Big-eyed Tuna/Mebachi Maguro

Human-raising Research is conducted and nearly brought to fruition.

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Albacore Tuna: Kihada Maguro

Human-raising Research is conducted and will soon be sucessful.

Note:
Indian Ocean Tuna/Indo Maguro: Human-raising Research is conducted abroad and such fish are imported to Japan.

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Yellowtail/Buri

Over 62,000 tons of human-raised fish consumed last year.

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Amberjack/Kanpachi

Over 49,000 tons of human-raised fish consumed last year.

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Striped Jack/Shima Aji

Over 3,000 tons of human-raised fish consumed last year.

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Horse Mackerel/Ma Aji

Over 3,500 tons of human-raised fish consumed last year.

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True Mackerel-Japanese Mackerel/Ma Saba

Human raising succeeded and fish are already sold over the counter.

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True Sardine-Pilchard/Ma Iwashi

Human-raising Research is being conducted and could created a real revolution as the same fish also become feed for above tuna.

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Isaki/Grouper variety-Parapristipona Trilinoatum

9 tons of human-raised fish consumed in Nagasaki Prefecture alone last year. Shizuoka is also coming up with them!

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Silver Salmon/Gin Sake

Over 8,000 tons of human-raised fish consumed last year.
Production very fast.

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Porgy/Madai

Over 71,000 tons of human-raised fish consumed last year as opposed to 15,000 tons caught at sea.
Al kinds of seabreams are actually on the line.

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Seabass/Suzuki

382 tons tons of human-raised fish consumed in Kagawa Prefecture (Shikoku) alone last year.

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Sand Borer-Sillago/Kisu

Human-raising Research is being conducted.

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Bar-tailed Flathead/Kochi

Human-raising is being conducted.

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Ainame/Alexagrammos otakii

Human-raising has succeeded and some fish is already sold over the counter.

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Kelp Bass/Kue

A success story in Shizuoka and Nagasaki Prefectures where human-raised fish are already sold over the counter.

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Globefish-Tiger Globefish/Tora Fugu

Over 5,000 tons of human-raised fish consumed last year.
Shizuoka is rapidly becoming a major producer, especially inhamana (sea) Lake in the Western part of the Prefecture.

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Large Prawn/Kuruma Ebi

Over 1,700 tons of human-raised prawns consumed last year.

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Spiny Lobster/Ise Ebi

Human-raising Research is being conducted.

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Ark Shell-Bloody Clam/Akagai

Human-raising Research is being conducted.

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Gaper/Mirugai

Human-raising Research is being conducted

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Large Cockle/Torigai

Human-raising Research is being conducted

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Hard Clam/Hamaguri

Very large amounts of half human-raised shellfish consumed last year.
All the clams picke by tourist in Hamana lake have actually been planted young there!

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Surf Clam/Hokkigai

Human-raising Research bein conducted

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Abalone/ Awabi

32 tons tons of human-raised abalones consumed in Hokkaido and Nagasaki Prefectures alone last year.
Now, knowing the price of such shellfish and the enormous consumption in other countries, it promises to become a very lucrative business!

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Scallops/Hotate

Over 270,000 tons of human-raised scallops consumed last year.
The shellffish being hermaphrodite, it will become easier and easier tomake and sell. Here in Shizuoka it has simply become ridiculaoulsy cheap!

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Oysters/Kaki

Over 220,000 tons of human-raised oysters + over 35,000 tons of the same out of the shell consumed last year as opposed to 1,600 tons of wild oysters.
Actually soon or later the catch of wild oysters will become strictly regulated as many other shellfish. Poaching both by Japanese and “foreigners” is being fought off in earnest.

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Sea Urchin/Uni

7 tons tons of human-raised sea urchin consumed in Hokkaido Prefecture alone last year.

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Conger Eel/ Ma Anago

Human-raising Research is being conducted

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Common Eel/Unagi

Over 21,000 tons of human-raised fish consumed last year as opposed to 610 tons caught in the wild.

In some places, notably Mishima City, eel restaurants refuse to serve wild eels.

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Oike Conger eel/Hamo

Human-raising Research is being conducted.

The Japanese have also starting research on different varieties of octopus/tako and squids/ika.

Probably more coming soon or later!

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Karasumi/Botarga/Boutargue Season in Shizuoka!

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(Courtesy of Shizuoka Shimbun Daily)

Karasumi, known as “boutargue” in French, or as “botarga” in Italian, is the natrally dried/preserved roe pouches of the mullet.
It is quite an expensive morsel in Japanese cuisine as well as in Europe (that is, the real one!).

Numazu City, one of the main fishing harbors in Shizuoka Prefecture, is quite renown for its karasumi.
The season for catching bora/鯔, or mullet in English, has begun and fishermen have just started drying their roe pouches/karasumi/カラスミ under the Autumn sun in this comparatively rainless time of the year.
It is grim and painstaking businees as the the roe pouches have to be carefully cleaned, got rid of any blood vesels, and sprinkled with the right quantity of salt.

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They will be served thinly cut as they are in Japanese restaurants, or used in Italian and French restaurants, especially with pasta.

This yearly catch is slowly dwindling due to high demand, so brace yourselves when you open your purse!

Note: beware of imported specimens, especially from “Asia”!

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Vegan Dressing: Shizuoka Wasabi Dressing

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Shizuoka has claimed world fame for being the first to grow wasabi in the 17th Century (in Yutogi, Shizuoka City exactly, up along the Abe River) and for producing more than 80% of the wole Japanese output, but people tend to forget that it can be accomodated in varuious manners, apart of being used a condiment for sashimi, sushi and the ubuquitous makisushi/rolled sushi!

The whole plant for instance can be made ito a pickled delicacy of its own.

One more great use has been initiated in Mishima City in eastern Shizuoka Prefecture: Wasabi Dressing!

It is not at all hot, but almost sweet and makes great accompaniment for any salads, on omelettes (Japanese or traditional) and mixed with sauces. I (and my better/worse) half are still disovering more usages!

Definitely worth a try! Moreover it contains a crowd of healthy ingredients!
Moreover, as it contains only vegetal oil, vinegar and ntural spices, it makes for the perfect vegan or vegetarian dressing!

Wasabi Dressing
Izu Kameya Co.
Mishima City, Heiseidai 5
Tel.: 0120369981
Can be bought in Sunpu Raku Ichi Shop, Asty, Shizuoka JR Station

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Italian Restaurant: Lunch at Il Paladino

PALADINO-3

Service: Excellent and very friendly
Facilities: great and very large washroom, great cleanliness overall
Prices: reasonable to expensive.
Specialty:Sicilian Cuisine. Top-class Italian wines and great collection of Grappa.
Non-smoking at tables.

The Autumn days are definitely getting shorter but we still enjoy plenty of warm fine weather making ideal for lunches taken on a terrace!
Although Il paladino’s Terrace is a bit small I would never exchange it for a seat inside!
Though I must say there is always a good chance for its seats to be available as the Japanese haven’t caught onthe habit of eating outside yet!

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Il Paladino offers great lunch courses for a bargain.
Since their ingredients are seasonal only, there is little chance for a repeat menu.
The Missus and I visited them the other Thursday, a rare day when we can go out together.
Mylady had the antipasti misto of the day, including agreat little quiche!

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As for me I started with a salad of vegetables rown locally. Very well chosen, they would please any vegan or vegetarian friend!

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The Missus, being a pasta fanatic, couldn’t resist the spaghetti of the day with calamari squid, mushrooms, greens and parmegiano.

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Veg and pasta are fine, but I needed something more solid.
I chose the grilled marlin with a parmegiano cream sauce.
Plentiful, very tasty and going so well with the home-made fogaccia bread (see pic ath top of this posting)!

Looking forward to our next dinner there!

Tratorria . Il Paladino
420-9839 Shizuoka City, Aoi-Ku, Takajo, 2-8-19
Tel.: 054-253-6537
Opening hours: 11:30~13:30, 17:00~22:00
Closed on Mondays
Credit cards OK (Dinner only)

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Organic Cafe: Giono

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Service: excellent and very friendly
Facilities: great cleanliness overall
Prices: reasonable, good value.
Strong points: Very fresh local ingredients extensively used. Seasonal ingredients only. All organic.

If you have the chance to visit Mishima City at the foot of Mount Fuji, there is a place where to enjoy a full day in an art-filled park of the highest level: Clematis no Oka/Clematis Hill.

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A free shuttle bus will take you from Mishima JR Station all the way to Nagaizumi Cho past vegetable farms and resort villas and drop you at this grand art complex in the middle of a forest.

It comprises two main parts:
-The Clematis Garden Area with an enormous (by Japanese standards) park with an infinite amount of flowers and a Museum/Park concept called the Vangi Statues Garden Art Museum, enough of a venue by itself.
-Buffet Area: not a diner-buffet area but the Bernard Buffet Museum you can either acceed to by shuttle or by walking across from the Vangi Park and a exquisite suspended bridge.
The Bernard Buffet is a major Museum in Japan with regular visiting exhibitions such as Leonard Foujita.
Check their great Homepage!

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Right in front of the Museum entrance stands an inviting cafe/restaurant/boutique.
You can choose a seat either inside the cafe or at one of the three parasol tables (choose the latter if possible).

GIONO-3

Open only for lunch in accordance to the Musuem business hours it offers an exclusively organic menu, be it vegan, vegetarian or omnivore.
Almost all vegetables are grown in neighbourhood gardens and farms.
Mishima City and its surroundings are a reference in Shizuoka Prefecture when it comes to agricultural produce of any kind, including organic and biological growing and raising.

GIONO-2

The menu is purely seasonal, and where not available locally, the ingredients, such as olive oil, are carefully chosen among products from France, Italy and other countries.
The Missus and I on that day opted for two different set-courses.
Both courses come with an appetizer. In this case, chilled vychissoise soup with olive oil and a sprinkle of fresh herbs, and a pot of organic vegetables salad.

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The Dragon (my other half) had a delicious mushroom and potato quiche. I managed to steal half of it! Beautifully light but satisfying, I must emulate it as soon as possible!

GIONO-6

The Rabbit (me!) ordered the deep-fried chicken in a batter containing 14 spices and garnished with organic fried potatoes. A lunch to convince you away from those famed/notorious diners (can you guess?)!

We were also offered a complimentary drink with the course.
Note: Lunches are served with a big bottle of water coming directly from the streams flowing down Mount Fuji!

GIONO
411-0931, Mshima City, Nagaizumi-Cho, Clematis Garden (Suruga Oka), 347-1, Bernard Buffet Museum
Tel.: 055-980-5856
Opening hours: 10:00~17:30 (lunches until 15:00). Time will change in winter.
Closed on Tuesdays or on Wednesdays if Tuesday is a National Holiday.
HOMEPAGE (English)

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Japanese Cheese: NEEDS Co. (Hokkaido)

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I have already said that the Japanese have been steadily increasing their own cheese production for the last 10 years or so with some reamarkable results.
Moreover, these cheese have slowly but steadily become available over the whole country at specialised shops and department stores.
As a futher proof I have discovered four more cheeses by a different company I hadn’t heard of before: NEEDS Co Ltd in the island of Hokkaido!
NEEDS stands for “Northern Eco Economy Developing System”.
The amusing details are that names are in English or Japanese while weights and packaging are written in French.
NEEDS Co. Ltd. is relatively new as it was founded in 2003.

CHEESE-NEEDS1

They are all made from raw cow’s milk and very safely packaged, a must in this country with very changeable climates!

CHEESE-NEEDS3

The above cheese, a hard type variety is called Kashiwa/槲 (Japanese Emperor Oak), the name of a tree found in Hokkaido.
It is a cross obtween Emmental and Gruyere, with some welcome pungency and solid taste.

CHEESE-NEEDS4

This cheese is called “Oochi no Hoppe/大地のほっぺ” meaning the “Cheek of the Large lands”!
Reblochon-style, it is quite soft and pobably will do better with some more maturing.

CHEESE-NEEDS5

The cheese above is called “Sakeru Type Mozzarella/White pepper/String/さけるタイプ・モッツアレラチーズ・ホワイトペッパーストリング”. in brief it is a string-type cheese you can tear easily. great as a snack. The pepper contained in the cheese is a good initiative. As for the name Mozzarella, it just shows that the Japanese laws are somewhat a bit lax! great snack with beer.

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As the name “Caciocavallo” indicates, the above cheese is Italian-inspired!
Softer than its Italian counterpart, it has nonetheless a solid taste with plenty of supleness, making for a great snack!

NEEDS Co. Ltd.
Hokkaido, Nakagawa Gun, Makubetsu cho, Shinwa, 162-111
Tel.: (819(0)155-57-2511

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Vegan Sashimi at Yasaitei

YASAITEI-VEGAN2

Service: excellent and very friendly
Facilities: great cleanliness overall
Prices: reasonable, good value.
Strong points: Very fresh local ingredients extensively used. Seasonal ingredients only. All-ladies staff.

I’ve been an unconditional fan of Yasatei in Shizuoka City for quite a while.
Some might say I’m attracted to the all-female staff, but they would be sorely mistaken as I take my Missus there from time to time!
The reasons are very simple:

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Yasaitei (The Vegetables Inn in Japanese) makes the extra effort(s) to serve whenever possible produce from Shizuoka Prefecture, including sake and shochu! The only place, as far as I know, which offers shochu from three different Shizuoka breweries/distilleries!
Vegan and vegetarian friends have complained to me unaccountable times that they would not be able to survive in Japan. How far from the truth they are!
Vegetables, including organic and biologically-grown, are plentiful in this country. I must gladly admit hat we are blessed with a very special situation here in Shizuoka Prefecture as this is the mildest region in Japan in spite of the snow falling around Mount Fuji. Our Prefecture has become a national reference when it comes to vegetable and fruit agricultural research (omnivores will be glad to hear that it is also at the forefront of marine life sustainibility!), notably in natural environment.

The staff at Yasaitei always keeps an extra eye and ear open for any new information concerning vegetables. Many a time I have brought them heirloom tomatoes, burdock roots, potimarrons and what else grown by lady farmers up Abe River just for the fun of it. On such occasions some surprised patrons find themselves served with an extra “service morsel” (meaning free of charge)!

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Yesterday evening, I needed a “quick fix” in between two work sessions and pedaled to their restaurant only five minutes away.
I just said, “Yasai sashimi no moriawase/Plate of vegetables sashimi, please!”
Written or not on the day’s menu, it will always be prepared with an extra care.
The set I was served consisted of the following (See above pic):
-Cucumber (kyuuri/胡瓜)-the Japanese like them young, narrow and crunchy!
-Japanese long radish (daikon/大根)-Juicy, crunchy, almost sweet (bear in mind that the extremity is astringent!).
-Perilla leaf (shiso/紫蘇) behind the daikon and sitting on a bed of sliced onion (tamanegei/たまねぎ). The onion were thinly sliced and left in cold water for a while to take away the astringency.

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-Grapara leaves (grapara/グラパラ) in the middle. I will talk about this later!
-Sweet Ameera tomatoes (ameera tomato/アメーラトマト). These tomatoes were originally grown in Shizuoka Prefecture, but are slowly expanding all over Japan. They are so sweet that they almsot taste like strawberries!
-Celery (serori/セロリー). Shizuoka Prefecture grows half of them in Japan! Fresh, juicy and crunchy!
-Myoga ginger sprouts (myouga/茗荷) just behind the celery.

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These grapara leaves are grown in Chiba Prefecture, north of Tokyo.
For people who can read Japanes, check their homepage!

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Crunchy but with a juicy and tender inside, they are sweet and taste somewhat like pineapple!

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Vegans and Vegetarians, do not worry!
Yasaitei does not serve mayonnaise with such beauties.
They will accompany this plate of super fresh vegetables with a small saucer containing sesame oil (goma abura/ゴマ油), dark miso (kuro miso/黒味噌) and natural salt (shio/塩)!

Expect more reports!

YASAITEI
Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Tokiwa-Cho, 1-6-2 Green Heights Wamon 1-C
Tel.: 054-2543277
Business hours: 17:30~22:00
Closed on Sundays
Reservations highly recommended
Seating: 6 at counter + 20 at tables
Set Courses: 3,000, 4,000, 5,000 yen
HOMEPAGE (Japanese)

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Japanese Seasonal Fish: Kawahagi/Thread-sail Filefish

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Kawahagi or Thread-sail Filefish (or simply Filefish) is an angler’s favourite in summer.
Like any other fishes, it has other names such as “Gihagi, “Hagi”, “Gyuu”, “Subuta” or “bakuchiuchi”.
It is fairly common in Central and South Japan.
It is called Leatherjacket down in Australia where it is considered a pest!

In Kansai area, it replaces Fugu/Globefish when it is out of season for its similarity as sashimi

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The skin should be rough like that of a shark and brightly coloured.
Avoid sticky skin fish.
The bigger the size, the greater the taste (anglers, enjoy!)

Savouring the full Filfish meal at Sushi Ko, Shizuoka City:

Back in June, as I had to atone for some somewhat egoistical pleasure-seeking, I took the Missus to our favourite Sushi Restaurant in Shizuoka City, namely Sushi Ko,located along Aoba Park.

Although we did order the inevitable favourites, “katsuo/bonito” sashimi, “Shirako to Ankimo/Combination of Cod Sperm sacs and Frogfish/Monkfish liver”, “Pon Kara Maguro/Deep-fried tuna cubes”, “Shishamo/Spirinchus lanceolatus”, “Hotate/Scallops”, “Maguro Zuke/Marinated Tuna sushi”, and “Amaebi nigiri to Shiraebi Gunkan/Sweet shrimp and white shrimp sushi”, the star of the day was “Kawahagi/Filefish”!

The chef took a splendid live specimen (see top pic) just caught off Mochimune coast in Shizuoka City out of the “aquarium” and proceeded to serve the complete fish in three different manners:


“O-Tsukuri”:
After having taken away the inedible skin, the chef first cut the fillets into very thin slices to be served with thin leeks and dip sauce made of ponzu mixed with the fresh liver of the same fish. As now is the best season, those comparatively thin fish come up with enormous livers!


“O nigiri”:
The chef managed to keep four slices aside to prepare nigiri with the fish flesh topped with a piece of its liver, some “momiji oroshi/grated daikon with chili pepper” and seasoned with ponzu!

SUSHI-KO-2008-10-11“Kara age”:
The “cheeks bones” with their meat were last deep-fried and served as they are with some lemon. Simple and great!
All this with one single fish!

Sushi Ko
shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Ryogae-cho. 2-3-1 (Aoba Koen)
Tel.: 054-2512898
Business Hours: 17:00~25:00. 17:00~23:00 (Sundays)
Closed on Wednesdays
Reservations recommended
Credit cards OK
HOMEPAGE (Japanese)

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Ankimo Presentations 2

ANKIMO-STEAMED
Plain steamed ankimo served with simple cold ponzu sauce

I have already introduced the recipe for preparing Ankimo/Frogfish Liver (Japanese Foie Gras) in a precedent article as well an article on various presentations.
This posting will show you other possibilities!

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The oshizushi/pressed sushi above is a beauty with fish jelly on top!

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Ankimo Gunkan Mini Seriies!

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ANKIMO-FRIED

Ankimo does not have to be on sushi.
It can be cooked for its own sake such as in Japanese style above or:

ANKIMO-PASTA

Ankimo Pasta. Japanese foie gras instead of duck/goose foie gras!

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Japanese Seasonal Fish: Salmon-Sake

SAKE-1

Salmon is a favourite almost everywhere on the Globe, but it is in Japan that you can enjoy in the most numerous manners!

Like every other fish it has many names according to season and place:
Shirozake/White Salmon, Akiaji or Akizake for Autumn Salmon, Shake in Tokyo.
In Spring it is called Tokishirazu.
I don’t have to tell you there are many, many names for it all over the world!

SAKE-SUJIKO

Its roe, before processing, is called Sujiko in Japanese, whereas the salmon roe, once treated, is called Ikura.

SAKE-ROE-SUSHI

Many Japanese appreciate the roe untreated, but more people enjoy it on top of rice as it is with some soy sauce and grated wasabi.

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It also makes for some splendid colourful creation on a plate of sushi!

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As oshizushi/pressed sushi, it can make some very interesting combinations with the salmon flesh and roe.

SAKE-GOHAN

Have you ever tasted Sake Gohan/Salmon Rice?

SAKE-OSHIZUSHI

Slightly smoked the Japanese way, It is extensively used in the making of bentoes!

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Japanese Cuisine: Seabream in Kabayaki Style

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Seabreams or groupers are aslo common almost all year long.
They make for all kinds of preparation in Japanese cuisine, either in nabe/Japanese pot au feu or grilled.
This very simple recipe is a grill in kabayaki style:

Seabream in Kabayaki Style:

INGREDIENTS: For two persons

-White-flesh fish (seabreams or groupers. Recipe can apply to almost any white flesh fish): 120g~

Marinade
-Soy sauce: 1 teaspoon
-Japanese Sake: 1 teaspoon

-Cornstarch: 2 tablespoons~
-Oil: 1 tablespoon

Sauce:
-Soy sauce: 1 tablespoon
-Japanese Sake: 1 tablespoon
-Mirin/Sweet sake: half a tablespoon
-Sugar: half a tablespoon
-White sesame seeds: 1~2 teaspoons
-Finely chopped thin leeks: 2 tablespoons

RECIPE:

TAI-KABAYAKI2

-Marinate fish soy sauce and Japanese sake for about 10 minutes.
-In a separate bowl mix soy sauce, Japanese Sake, mirin and sugar.

-Rest fish on a piece of kitchen paper to take excess marinade.
-Sprinkle both sides with cornstarch.
-Heat oil on a frypan and grill fish on both sides util “bubbles/eyes” appear on it surface.

-Once the heat has reched/cooked the core of the fish, slide fish against the side or corner of the frypan. Pour the sauce in the remaing space of the frypan. As soon as sauce starts boiling, caramelize both sides of the fish with the sauce.

-As soon as you are satisfied with the cooking of the fish, serve fish on a dish. Mix white sesame seeds with reamining sauce and pour over fish. Sprinkle with chopped thin leeks.

NOTE:

-Keep in mind that fish can break easily when you flip it over to fry it on both sides.
-Fry the skin side first.

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Japanese Cuisine: Salmon grilled with Leek Miso

SALMON-NEGI-1

Salmon is basically available all year round these days.
The Japanese prepare it in all kinds of ways.
Here is a simple recipe very popular in Japanese homes you can also enjoy as a snack with a cool beer!

Salmon grilled with leek miso:

INGREDIENTS: For 2 persons

-Salmon: 2 slices
-Miso: 1 large tablespoon
-Japanese sake: 1 tablespoon (can be reduced or increased)
-Leek: 5 cm long cut (chopped fine)
-Umeboshi/pickled Jpanes plum: 1 teaspoon (can be reduced or increased)

RECIPE:

SALMON-NEGI-2

-In a bowl mix miso, sake, leek and umeboshi. Add sake if the mixture is not smooth enough. As for miso, choose one cotaining beans.
Do not be afraid to experiment as far as ingredients and quantities are concerned.

SALMON-NEGI-3

Grill with the lower face/side up first.
Turn over as the first “bubbles” appear on its surface.
Smear the salmon with the leek miso mix and grill until “bubbles apear on the fish surface.

SALMON-NEGI-4

Serve with shiso or lettuce leaves for decoration and limes forthe final touch.

NOTES:

-Take care not to overgrill the fish.
-If you use salmon with its skin, grill skin first.

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