Tag Archives: 美食

LE CAFE-LABO: Classic Cakes (2)


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Following the greedy (LOL) comments of Taste Memory Girl and Rubber Slippers in Italy among others, I’ve decided to run a couple of series of cakes created by Shizuoka Patissiers which deserve a special mention. There are many actually, for the simple reason that our Prefecture has a sizeable population (4 million) and a mild climate propitious for lighter cakes and a larger scope of tastes.

LE CAFE-LABO is the kind of Patisserie which rests on its (deserved) laurels and always endeavours to reveal another facet of its chef’s talents.
A typical example is its new creation, Art Nouveau:

I will explain from the top this time:
-Coconuts Blanc-Mange with a couple of berries.
-Between two layers of White Chocolate Biscuit, pineapple, banana, Blueberry in fruit sauce.
-Pistachio Brule (pudding)
More of a cake for adults than children, it is particularly deliciously light and gratifying with the first heats of the year!

LE CAFE-LABO
424-0886 Shizuoka City, Shimizu Ku, Kusanagi, 46
Tel.: 054-3441661
Also available at Isetan Dept. Store, Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Shichiken-Cho

Shizuoka Beer 3/3: Izu Ale by Oratche Brewery


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This is my third tasting of the beer from this micro-brewery lost in the east of the prefecture at the foot of Mount Fuji:

Izu Ale

This particular beer is an organic beer using wheat malt.
It is unfiltered and should be kept in a cold environment because of its live yeast.

Clarity: slightly smoky (unfiltered)
Colour: golden orange
Foam: Long head, fine steady bubbles
Aroma: Oranges,yeast, bread
Taste: Dry and heady. Oranges, bread. Shortish tail. Refreshing and satisfying.

Overall: British Ale type. True Ale. My British particularly appreciated it. Can be savoured on its own or with food.

Oratche
419-0105 Tagata Gun, Tanna, 349-1
Tel.: 055-974-4192
Fax: 055-974-4191
Homepage (Japanese)

Chocolat Fin: Traditional Cakes (3)


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Before I start I must make sure that “Taste Memory Girl” is notified as she has this insatiable sweet tooth!

Talking of traditional cakes, Gateau Chocolat was conceived as far back as the 18th Century. Contrary to its name, it is not of French origin but first adorned the plates of Austrian nobility.
It has since voyaged through the times and lands and been refined in many ways.
The variety created by Chocolat Fin in Shizuoka City is typical of its French evolution in Japan.

From bottom to top (I was going to say from top to bottom as it is eaten, but after all you make it the other way!)
Chocolate Sponge Cake and Chocolate Ganache, twice.
Chocolate Sponge Cake and Milk Chocolate Butter Cream, twice.
The whole coated with Chocolate Icing.

Chocolat Fin adds a hint of liqueur while refraining on the sugar.
Each layer and every confectioner will find plenty of scope there.
Otherwise finely chopped solid chocolate or raisin (soaked in rum) bits may be added to the chocolate ganache.
The possibilities are endless!

Chocolat Fin
Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Takajo Machi, 1-3-7 (2 minutes walk from Shin Shizuoka Center)
Tel. & fax: 054-2516321
Business hours: 10:00~20:00

Also: Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Shin Shizuoka Center, Basement 1F
Tel.: 054-2215878

Italian Cuisine: Latina


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Mr. Kojima is far from being a new face in Shizuoka City. For a long time he was the chef at Ciccio Ristorante, renamed Via de Burgo since then, before he had to take a year-long holiday due to health problems. In september 2006 he came back with a vengeance with his own restaurant, Latina, south of Shizuoka City JR Station, the fastest-changing area in town.
His (forced) move could not have happened at a better time when he took over an enormous cafe to modify it in a restaurant with a minimum of work. One can sit at a table away from the kitchen or next to it, or at a long counter overlooking Mr. Kojima’s kitchen.

Not only the food is great and very reasonably-priced, but the wine list is definitely top-class.
Now, I would suggest anyone to have a word with the master of the place before choosing one’s nectar as they are not all featured on the menu. The two friends who visited the place last Friday in my company being extremely knowledgeable, I chose a Rosso di Montalcino 2006 from Toscana. A bit young I admit, but with plenty of swirling around it did pretty well with our first order.

Although the ever-changing menu is written for all to see on a blackboard above your heads, you could always get your favourite dishes by notifying Mr. Kojima a few days in advance.
In any case, the antipasto misto was a beauty including homemade ham, crostini with homemade liver paste, omelette, meat balls, ratatouille and so forth.

Alright, I should have done my homework and prepared a menu beforehand, but as my friends intend to go as far as to organize a wine-tasting dinner there, it is only postponed!
So, to follow up in accordance with the wine, we ordered roasted guinea fowl (above)

roasted quail (notice the yellow-fleshed potatoes. Not yams, but a different variety of potatoes served as wedges with their skin, perfect!),

and a soft, so tender, venison stewed in red wine!
All cooked to precision but without any ostentation. Solid, delicious, homely fare, like in the Italian country!
Rowena, don’t kill me! And don’t ask where the Missus was!

As we still had some beautiful homemade bread left in the basket, we could not resist ordering a somewhat extravagant Carbonaione 1998 to go with some cheese in lieu of dessert. Mind you, it is only the first of a few more surveys. I shall be able to tease the likes of Memory Girl and Foodhoe later!

For this time I’ll be content with teasing Gaijin Tonic when I tell him that he Master of the place came with no less than eight kinds of Grappa for after drinks (on the house!) and two homemade liqueurs with lemon and orange!

Holy macaroni! I can tell you it was about time we took our leave as two of us were working from 9:00 a.m. the next day! Look forward to the next article!

LATINA
422-8062 Shizuoka City, Suruga Ku, Inagawa, 1-1-29
Tel. & Fax: 054-289-6522
Business hours: 11:45~14:00 (Saturday, Sunday & National Holidays only)
18:00~23:00
Closed on Mondays (or Tuesday if Monday is a National Holiday)
Credit cards OK

Quatre Saisons: Traditional Cake


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Quatre Saisons is tiny (if not the smallest) cake shop fisrt established 4 years ago in Shizuoka City. It stands at the very corner of a narrow crossroads away from the bustling centre. The only reason why I know of it is because it is located along the way to the Cricket Ground I visit at least twice a week.

This Chocolat Fruit Terrine will probably tempt more the likes of Foodhoe, Gaijin Tonic and even Lojol than the ladies!
It is hearty, fulfilling and gratifying.
And ridiculously cheap (157 yen a cut!)!

It is traditional in the sense that it is very rural in concept. The fruits, cherries and blueberries, are first flambeed before being mixed more or less at random with soft chocolate and vanilla dough which is poured into a mould laid with a thin layer of sheet pastry.
One more layer of the latter will cover the terrine before being baked.

Snow sugar will be sprinkled on top as the terrine cools down.
The solid consistency will make it easy to cut into size portions although it tends to crumble down under the fork.
Lojol would probably appreciate it lukewarm with a good serving of hot English custard!

Quatre Saisons
420-0002 Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Zaimoku Cho, 8-1
Tel. & fax: 054-221-0651
Closed on Tuesdays

Chocolat Fin: A real Shizuoka Dessert!


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Chocolat Fin has the advantage to be located a few minutes away from my office, which in a sense is a bit unfair to other very good confectioneries in Shizuoka. I promise I will hunt away from my haunts from next month! My students will be the happier for it as I do have to visit cake shops at east three times a week!

Now, before I start I’d better alert all my lady friends with a sweet tooth!
I’m certain that Rowena, Memory Taste Girl, Jocelyn, Etsuko, Melinda, Deluscious Life and The Left Over Queen wil be interested to know that the present dessertis a very healthy one! Oh, I forgot that there is atleast one gentleman, Dominique, who will grace me with a professional curiosity!

Shizuoka Prefecture is the largest (about 70%) producer of green tea in Japan. Since we are in the middle of harvesting season, Chocolat Fin had the greaty idea to come up with a creation made with ma-cha tea, a superior class of tea used in tea ceremonies and restaurants. As it comes under the form of powder it is very easy to manipulate.


This Ma-cha pudding was underllined with a caramel sauce and topped with a fine layer of ma-cha jelly. The whole pudding is a perfection of balance, not too sweet, with a definite tea savour and firm enough for you to dig in with your spoon. Actually, I made a point of leaving it in the fridgefor a coupe of hours before devouring it. It almost ate like an ice-cream.

The recipe is not difficult, but the ingredients are simply first class!

Chocolat Fin
Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Takajo Machi, 1-3-7 (2 minutes walk from Shin Shizuoka Center)
Tel. & fax: 054-2516321
Business hours: 10:00~20:00

Also: Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Shin Shizuoka Center, Basement 1F
Tel.: 054-2215878

Shizuoka Izakaya: Shibata


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For once, I did not foot the bill (although I tried hard) as I was invited by Mr. Sakurai, an old friend of mine and the sire of a favourite student of mine. Therefore I must admit I do not have a clue to how much the bill amounted to, although the place is fairly reasonable.
Shibata was opened 20 years ago and has already gone through a total renewal in 2003.
It is extremely popular and busy. Reservations are a must on week-ends!
Mr. Sakurai had ordered a set menu (probably the most expensive one, judging from the quality and quantity!). We had only the drinks to worry about!

Like any worthy Izakaya in Shizuoka, Shibata features a good number of Shizuoka Jizake on its menu: Isojiman (Yaizu City), Kokkou (Fukuroi City), Shidaizumi (Fujieda City), Suginishiki (Sugii Brewery/Fujieda City), Kikuyoi (Aoshima Brewery/Fujieda City), Shosetsu (Kansawagawa Brewery,Yui Cho), Kaiun (Doi Brewery/Kakegawa City)!
Before I go through all the morsels I’d better hoot for Rowena, Gaijin Tonic, Foodhoe and Simaldeff to prepare themselves (and call their friends, LOL)!

The “snack” coming with first drinks was a proof of the quality of the establishment: boiled bamboo shoot, grilled clam, shellfish in its shell and broad beans.

But the enormous sashimi plate (for three persons) could have been enough with adequate drinks:
Sazae/Turbo shells in its shell and insides in a small plate. Maguro Chutoro/Tuna Fatty part (right). Awabi/Abalone (small on left). Bottom right, raw Sakuraebi/Sakura Shrimps from Yui Cho and Shirasu/Sardine Whiting from Mochimune. Centre, Uni/Sea Urchin in a cup. Centre left, Shime saba/pickled Mackerel. Bottom left, Aori Ika/Aori Squid and Suzuki/Seabass.

But then, dishes came down at speed (if I had a single criticism to vent, it would be that dishes come too fast!):
Ise Ebi to Kani Gusoku Ni/Spiny Lobster and crab legs in Japanese-style sweetand sour sauce. The lobster is Australian and the crab Russian, but very tasty!

Ooba no Tsutsumi mushi/Clam steamed inside a bamboo leaf. reminiscent of Vietnamese food. Both delicate and fulfilling!

Yuba Chakin

Fish and shellfish in white sauce baked inside yuba/”toofu skin”. A dish that would be appreciated anywhere as you could easily make a vegetarian version! A shame you have to open it!

The last dish before the dessert (sorry I got carried away and forgot to take a pic of the latter!) was a typical Japanese fare: Sawara no kidomeyaki/Large Mackerel variety grilled topped with garnish made with Japanese herbs and spices. and Nasu no Denraku/Egg-plant or Aubergine grilled topped with a sweet miso sauce.

Holy Macaroni! Getting up proved an almost exhausting excersise!

Shibata
420-0034 Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Tokiwa-cho, 2-5-8
Tel.: 054-251-2405
Business hours: 17:00~23:00
Closed on Sundays
Credit Cards OK

Chocolat Fin: Traditional Cakes (2)


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Chibouste or Chiboust, although a very venerable confectionery、 has been the source of much confusion as it was first a cream invented by a French Chef as defined in Wickipedia:
“Crème Chiboust, also called Crème Saint-Honoré, is a crème pâtissière (pastry cream) lightened with whipped cream or stiffly beaten egg whites, originally devised by the French pastry chef Chiboust in Paris around 1846 to fill his Gâteau Saint-Honoré”。
Now, it represents a cake itself. So far (I mean myself)、 the best and more “traditional” version I’ve ever eaten is prepared by Chocolat Fin in Shizuoka. Naturally, this is open to friendly discussion!

A shallow tartelette is first filled with baked/steamed apples and then topped a chiboust cream (as described above). Particularly bothersome as each cake has to be made individually. I have little liking fおr the cut square versions, a sure sign of sloppy work.
Once the cake has settled inside its metal mold it will sprinkled with sugar and then “brule” as to form a crisp layer of caramel.
The apples can be soaked in liqueur or perfumed with cinnamon. The Chiboust cream, too, can be enhanced with liqueur and so forth.
Frankly speaking, I have a special admiration for chefs who are ready to spend time preparing such cakes!

Chocolat Fin
Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Takajo Machi, 1-3-7 (2 minutes walk from Shin Shizuoka Center)
Tel. & fax: 054-2516321
Business hours: 10:00~20:00

Also: Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Shin Shizuoka Center, Basement 1F
Tel.: 054-2215878

Shizuoka Cheeses: O-Sashimi Cheese


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This is the second cheese variety by Fuji Milk Land Co in Fujinomiya City.
The name “O-Sashimi” means that they suggest it to be eaten like Sashimi!

Actually it is easy to cut either into thick or thin slices.
It does go well with soy sauce, and even with a little dash of wasabi.
I also found it tasty on top of a salad, on toasts and of course on pizza. Easy to eat for children, too as salt contents are low, but as an adult makes a perfect snack with beer!

Fuji Milk Land
Milk Land Co. Ltd.
Fujinomiya City, Kami Ide 3690
Tel.: 0544-54-3690

Shizuoka Agricultural Products: “Noen no Megumi” Orange Juice


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Mikkabi area near Hamamatsu City in the estern partof Shizuoka Prefecture has been renown for its oranges, especially for a variety called “Mikkabi Aoshima Mikan”

It is always a special pleasure when you can discover them in the guise of 100% juice produced by local farmers!
Tasting notes:
Natural sweetness. Solid juice (100%). Great natural orange taste.
Both refreshing and satisfying!
Great for children and adults in summer.
Would especially recommend as dessert drink for children lunch boxes!

Noen No Megumi/Mikkabi Aoshima Mikan
Okamoto Mikan “Factory” ATA
hamamatsu City, kita Ku, Mikkabi cho, 276-1
Tel.: 053-524-4155

Le CAFE-LABO: Classical Cakes (1)


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Traditional Cakes are the mainstay of confectionery/Patisserie while Classical Cakes are invented from time to time to stay before they become traditional ckaes themselves.
A typical example is “Pistache” (Pistacchio) as created by LE CAFE-LABO in Shimizu Ku.

After admiring the cake (it certainly deserves it!), you can either savour it layer by layer, one at a time, or cut through it to entertain yourself with the combination of the tastes.
And you certainly have quite a few to review:
from top to bottom:
19 Pistachio Mousse
2)Chocolate Cream
3) Chocolate Mousse
4) Raspberry Sauce
5) Chocolate Crunchy
6) Pistachio Syrup

Enjoy!

LE CAFE-LABO
424-0886 Shizuoka City, Shimizu Ku, Kusanagi, 46
Tel.: 054-3441661
Also available at Isetan Dept. Store, Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Shichiken-Cho

Shizuoka Cheeses: Asagiri Stripe Cheese


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“Stripe Cheese”, or “sakeru cheese” in Japanese, is a very popular snack in this country.
I have already described one made by Oratche in Kannami.
This one produced by Fuji Milk Land, Milk Land Co. Ltd. in Fujinomiya City on the slopes of Mount Fuji is slightly different.

I would definitely suggest friends to eat it along with a beer as it bites and chews well. The right amount (little in fact) of salt makes it safe to consume aplenty. And it’s fun to see how thin ou can stripe it down!

Fuji Milk Land
Milk Land Co. Ltd.
Fujinomiya City, Kami Ide 3690
Tel.: 0544-54-3690

Chocolat Fin: Traditional Cakes (1)


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Japan has seen for quite some time confectioners trying to recreate classics for the sake of originality, and most of the time out of sheer conceit.
Therefore, it is reassuring that some still keep making cakes as they should be, regardless of of fashion and ephemerous fads.
One such place is Chocolat Fin in Shizuoka City:

Their chou a la creme or “chou cream” for the Japanese contains only creme patissiere/custard cream with the right touch of brandy. Not an undescript puff full of whipped cream and I don’t know what.


Their eclair mocha lokks like the real article. The pastry is covered with a delicious mocha icing.

And once again a bite will reveal custard added with the right amount of mocha and a touch of brandy.

Why do people have to demonstrate their skills with unnamable contraptions?

Chocolat Fin
Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Takajo Machi, 1-3-7 (2 minutes walk from Shin Shizuoka Center)
Tel. & fax: 054-2516321
Business hours: 10:00~20:00

Also: Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Shin Shizuoka Center, Basement 1F
Tel.: 054-2215878

Shizuoka Wasabi: An encounter with a great Chef!


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I have recently had the pleasure to make a new friend, namely Dominique Corby, a great French Chef who learned his craft at the Tour d’Argent in Paris, among others, before coming to Japan to look after the kitchen of the Sakura Restaurant in the New Otani Hotel in Osaka and of the 6eme Sens in Tokyo.

Dominique is a chef always looking for fresh seasonal natural ingredients for his cuisine which is resolutely a marriage of Japanese and French culinary traditions.
As he recently wrote a post on his blog on wasabi, I took the opportunity to send him a few samples of fresh wasabi grown in Shizuoka City, Utogi, Abe River for the simple pleasure of introducing him to one our great products in Shizuoka Prefecture.

They were almost one metre-high full with stems and leaves (all edible) and freshly uprooted in the very morning (I sent them by cool box just before lunch to reach him just in Osaka just before lunch the next day).
Dominique and his staff appreciated them to the point that a dish was created for the benefit of some customers on the very day.
See above picture. Dominique described it as follows:
-“sur une feuille et tiges de Wasabi, Sawara et Agi abute, kogomi,wasabina, nobiru, mousse de lait au wasabi fraîchement râpée, petite réduction de jus de homard”
-“on a wasabi leaf and stems, sawara and aji abute (grilled large mackerel variety and saurel), kogomi (young ferns), wasabina (a kind of Japanese lettuce), nobiru ( a kind of wild garlic), freshly grated wasabi milk mousse, reduced lobster juice.

A great compliment to a great product by a great chef!

Bryan Baird’s Newsletter


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Baird Beer & Taproom Events Bulletin 2008 #11
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Dear Taproom Friend & Baird Beer Enthusiast:

The Golden Week holiday is set to begin in Japan and we are kicking it off with the release of two of our staple spring seasonal beers: Four Sisters Spring Bock and Daidai Dark Wheat Ale.

(1) Four Sisters Spring Bock (ABV 6.0%):

Baird Four Sisters Spring Bock is brewed in the spirit of a German Maibock, albeit one of the type that was brewed centuries ago in the city of Einbeck and that was noted for its generous use of malted wheat. Four Sisters Spring Bock sports a deep copper-gold color and enjoys a sweet floral nose from aroma additions of Sterling hops. In the mouth, a rich malty flavor will introduce itself before quickly giving way to an extremely smooth, dry finish in which a hint of
honeyed-malt flavor and estery alcohol character lingers.

(2) Daidai Dark Wheat Ale (ABV 5.0%):

This is a wonderfully unique fruit ale that combines the spriteness of malted wheat, the richness and depth of roasted specialty malts (caramel wheat and chocolate wheat), and the fantastically spicy-minty aroma and citrusy flavor of Japanese Daidai fruit (courtesy of additions of freshly squeezed Daidai juice and shaved peels). This original ale epitomizes our brewers’ proud commitment to creativity and innovation in the crafting of beer!

Both ales are now being served at the Fishmarket Taproom in Numazu. They will be available at fine Baird Beer retailers throughout Japan, as well as at our online store, beginning Wednesday, April 30 (bottle size 633 ml).

Crafting fine beer is a privilege and a joy. Good brewers pursue a career in this profession out of love and the promise of internal satisfaction. At times, though, external recognition is important too. The greatest form of peer recognition in craft brewing comes with the awarding of medals at the semi-annual World Beer Cup competition. Baird Brewing is thrilled to be part of a strong Japan contingent that, collectively, took home ten medals from this prestigious competition. We were awarded bronze medals for two of our beers: Big Red Machine Fall Classic Ale (unfiltered/cellared category) and Nide Beer – The Ale (cream ale/lager category). Both of these ales will be available for purchase at our online store (reserves of the Big Red Machine Fall Classic Ale are extremely limited).

It is now definite; the grand opening of our Nakameguro Taproom will occur on Saturday, May 10. Beginning May 10, the Nakameguro Taproom will be open everyday from 11:30 am to 11:30 pm. The location is the Nakameguro GT Plaza (2nd floor) situated right next to bustling Nakameguro station (Toyoko and Hibiya lines) (Tel. 03-5768-3025). Please help us to make this a smashing new contribution to the increasingly vibrant culture of craft beer in Tokyo.

Finally, a remainder: the business hours for the Fishmarket Taproom during Golden Week will be as follows:

-Open from noon to midnight on Tuesday, April 29; Open as normal (5:00 pm to
midnight) Wednesday-Friday (April 30-May 2)
-Open from noon to midnight Saturday-Tuesday (May 3-6)
-Closed for business on Wednesday, May 7

Cheers!
Bryan Baird
HOMEPAGE