Tag Archives: French cuisine

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French Cake by Bernard Heberle: Tarte aux Figues/Fig Tart

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FIGUES-HEBERLE

My good French friend, Bernard Heberle, a native from Alsace in France and plying his trade as a patissier in Hamamatsu City, has just sent me his last creation:

Tart aux Figues/Fig Tart!

In his own words:
“Voici une tarte de saison , la combinaison de figue et de framboise sur un fond de pâte sucrée a l’amande régulée par une douce crème pâtissière , un vrai mélange de saveur et de parfum avec une sensation croustillante et mielleuse a la fois.”

“Here is a seasonal tart. The fig and raspberry combination on an almond pâte sucrée is enhanced by a soft crème pâtissière/custard. A true mixture of savours and perfume with a crusty and honey sensation.”

Abondance
Address: Hamamatsu Shi, Sumiyoshi, 2-14-27 (in front of Seirei Hospital)
Tel.: 053-4738400
Fax: 053-4738401
Opening hours: 10:00~20:00. Closed on Tuesdays.
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French Sweets: Salted Butter & Ginger Bread Caramels

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CARAMEL

Who does not like caramels?
Of course, there are many varieties depenfing on taste, texture and countries of origin.
My preferences lean towards the soft ones with a special taste.
These two caramels make use of ingredients from two different regions: Salted butter/Beurre sale from Bretagne/Brittany or Normandie/Normandie and Ginger bread/Pain d’epices from Bourgogne/Burgundy!

INGREDIENTS: ~35 caramels

-Salted butter caramels:
Fresh cream: 500g
Sugar: 375 g
Glucose syrup: 375 g
Salted butter: 200 g

-Ginger bread Caramels:
Fresh cream: 500
Good quality ginger bread: 100 g
Sugar: 375 g
Glucose syrup: 350 g
Fresh vanilla pod: 1
Salted butter: 100 g

-Utensils:
Thermometer
Thick bottom pan (middle size)
30 cm square mold for caramels

RECIPE:

-First prepare the salted butter caramels:

Line a mold with baking paper
In a thick bottom pan mix the glucose syrup and the sugar.Heat on a medium low fire to obtain a brown caramel.
Take off fire.
Add salted butter. Mix well. Add fresh cream. Mix well.
Put the pan back on the fire.
Whisking/stirring all the time, heat the mixture up to 180 degrees Celsius.
Cook for two more minutes and pour mixture inside mold.
Cut caramels with a saw-style knife before they have completely cooled down.
Wrap them separately/individually inside small thin jam cellophane paper.

-Secondly, prepare the ginger bread caramels:

Mix the fresh cram and the (crumbled) ginger bread in a bowl.
Cut the vanilla pod legthwise and take out the seeds.
In a thick bottom pan mix the sugar, glucose syrup, vanilla seeds and the ginger bread cream.
Stirring all the time heat the mixture uo to 180 degrees Celsius.
Add butter and mix.
Cook for two more minutes and pour mixture inside mold.
Cut caramels with a saw-style knife before they have completely cooled down.
Wrap them separately/individually inside small thin jam cellophane paper.

NOTE:
To obtain soft caramels do not overcook them.

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French Restaurant: Tetsuya SUGIMOTO (the approach)

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TETSUYA-SUGIMOTO-12

Service: excellent and very friendly
Facilities: great washroom, great cleanliness overall
Prices: reasonable, good value.
Strong points: Very fresh local ingredients extensively used. Seasonal ingredients only.

Tetsuya Sugimoto, former owner of Sugimoto Restaurant, has finally come back to us after venturing into unchartered waters to open his new restaurant, Tetsuya SUGIMOTO, in shizuoka City for the great pleasure of his many fans.
I personally consider him, and many friends agree, to be the best French in town and probably in the Prefecture.
As he has only just started again, the menu is still very much under study and is bound to vastly expand. I will only feature the dishes that I and a friend of mine tasted, as well as those that my other friend Marcus took during two quick meals.
A bigger one is coming next week, so stay tuned.

My Pictures:

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Marcus’ pics:

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Tetsuya SUGIMOTO
420-0038 Shizuoka Shi, Aoi Ku, Umeya, 2-13, 1F
Tel./Fax: 054-251-3051
open for lunch and dinner
Closed on Wednesdays

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French Dessert: Glace aux Mendiants/Beggars’ Ice Cream

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BEGGARS

“Beggars” in French has two meanings:
1) hobo, mendicant, …
2) it is the name given to dry fruit and grains used in desserts and cakes.
It is a tradition for example to make a tart called the Beggars Tart with 7 different kinds of dry fruit and nuts in Winter.

This is why why this ice-cream is called “Beggars’ Ice Cream”!

INGREDIENTS: 4 persons

-Milk: 250 ml
-Thyme leaves: 1 tablespoon
-Sugar: 90 g
-Powder milk: 40 g
-Egg: 1
-Whole fresh cream: 120 ml

-Marrons glaces: 75 g
-Preserved orange peels: 5o g
-Unsalted pistachio: 15 g

RECIPE:

-In a large pan bring the milk to boil and let the thyme infuse into it.

-In a large bowl mix the sugar and the powder milk.

-Separate egg yolks and whites.
In a deep bowl beat the egg yolks with a whisker with a little lukewarm nilk. Add the sugar and milk powder and mix. Add the rest of the milk.
Pour back into the large pan and mix with a spatula over a medium low fire.

-When the cream has become homogeneous/smooth, take off the fire and pour back into the deep bowl. Le cool.

-When the cream has completely cooled down, add and mix in the fresh cream and leave in refrigerator for at least 20 minutes.

-Take the cream out and strain it to discard the thyme leaves.

-Switch the ice cream maker/ice cream freezer on. Pour in the cream and let it turn/work for 25 minutes. When the ice cream starts jellyfing add egg whites, marrons glaces, orange peels and pistachio.
Fill soft molds (to make ice-crams easy to unmold) with ice ceam and leave inside freezer until just before serving.

-Serve it decorated with small pieces of marrons glaces, orange peels and broken pistachio over a caramel tile!

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French Cuisine: Duck, Prunes & Hazlenuts Pound Cake

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DUCK-CAKE

Pound Cakes should be all cakes. The recipe can be adapted for meat eaters into an eminently presentable dish!
Duck/Magret is an exceptionally easy to adapt meat in such a case.
Here is another easy French recipe with another log name (it is becoming a habit! LOL):

Cake aux Magrets de Canard, Pruneaux et Noisettes
Duck Breast, Prunes & Hazlenuts Pound Cake!

INGREDIENTS: for 4 persons

-Eggs: 3
-Flour: 150 g
-Baking powder: 3~4 g
-Sunflower Oil: 100 ml
-Unskimmed milk: 125 ml
-Gruyere/Emmental Cheese: 100 g (grated)
-Duck breast: 150 g
-Prunes (pitted): 80 g (roughly cut)
-Hazenuts (roughly broken): 30 g
-Salt: a pinch
-Pepper: 2 pinches

RECIPE:

-Preheat oven to 6/180 degrees Celsius

-Cut the duck breast in small enough pieces with their skin on. dry fry them (no oil or fat needed) on both sides 3 minutes each.
-In a big bowl or processor, mix the eggs, flour, baking powder. . Mix well. Add sunflower oil and milk. Mix well. Add cheese. Mix again.

-Add the duck, prunse and hazlenuts.
Pour the lot into a buttered pound cake mold and bake for 45 minutes.

–NOTE:
-You could use rabbit instead of duck.
-Let cool down completely before taking it out the mold.

Drink a sweet white wine with it!

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French Cuisine: Broad Beans, Parmegiano & Basil Clafoutis

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BROAD-CLAFOUTIS

Clafoutis are not all desserts. The recipe can be easily adapted to vegetables and others. Living in Japan it is a bit reminiscent of tamagoyaki!
Here is another simple French recipe with a long name:
Clafoutis de Fevettes au Parmesan et Basilic
Broad Beans, Parmegiano & Basil Clafoutis!

INGREDIENTS: fro 4~6 persons

-Broad beans (choose them small): 500 g
-Eggs: 4
-Milk: 200 ml
-Fresh cream: 100 ml
-Grated Parmegiano Cheese: 70 g
-Flour: 2 tablespoons
-Sweet basil: a small bunch (finely chopped)
-Salt: a pinch
-Grated nutmeg: a pinch
-Freshly ground white pepper

RECIPE:

-Pre-heat oven to 160 degrees Celsius

-Drop the brad beans in a big pan of boiling salted water and cook for only a minute. Strain immediately and cool under running cold water. Drain again and put aside.

-In a large bowl break the eggs. Add milk and fresh cream. Strongly beat into an omelette.

-Add salt, flour, parmegiano, nutmeg, pepper and basil. Mix well. add brad beans.

-Butter the inside of a clafoutis dish.
Pour in the broad beans mixture.
Put inside oven immediately and bake for 35 minutes.

-Serve hot or cold with a roquette salad.

-Best appreciated with sparkling rose wine!

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French Cuisine: Lukewarm Carrots Salad with Orange Flower Vinaigrette

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CARROTS

As a kid, I was not a fan of cooked carrots, whereas I could have never enough of grated carrot salad.
Age helping, my palate is finally accepting cooked carrots, especially new ones or the red Kyoto variety.
Here is a simple French recipe for new carrots with a very long name:
Salade de carottes fanes tiedes, vinaigrette a la Fleur d’Oranger
In English: Young carrots with part of their leaf stems, served lukewarm with a Orang Flower Vinaigrette!

INGREDIENTS: For 4 persons

-Carrots (young, small, with their leaves): a “bunch (at least 12 of them)
-Eggs (absolutely fresh!): 4
-Olive Oil (EV): 3 tablespoons
-Lemon juice and zeste (grated skin) from 1 whole lemon (organic if possible)
-Eau de Fleur d’Oranger/Orange Flower Water: 3 tablespoons
-Fine salt and ground pepper

RECIPE:

-Heat 1 litre of water to boil in the bottom of your steamer.

-Cut the leaves off the carrots leaving at least 2 cm of the stems on.
Quickly grate the skin off down to root point.
Make an incision all along their length.
Clean under clear cold running water.

-Place the carrots in the basket of your steamer. As soon as the water starts boiling, put the basket on top. Close your steamer and cook for 8~12 minutes.

-During that time heat some water to boil in another pan.
As soon as it starts boiling , carefully drop the eggs in the water (use a large strainer) and boil for 12 minutes.

-Clean and dry the lemon. cut the yellow part of the skin and chop finely. Pres the juice out into a glass.

-Cool the eggs under cold running water. Tap the eggs onto your kitchen board. Take off the shells.

-Mix in a bowl the lemon juice, olive oil, orange flower water, chopped lemon skin/zeste, salt and pepper. Place the warm/lukewarm carrots on 4 individual plates. Pour the vinaigrette on them. Last grate one boiled egg over each plate. Serve at once.

An Alsace type white wine would be best!

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French Dessert: Tarte au Cafe/Coffee Tart

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CAFE-TART

The French desserts series continue!
Notice that this tart is served with a sauce, both lukewarm!

Tart au Cafe/Coffee Tart!

INGREDIENTS: For 4 persons

-Pastry:
Flour: 125 g
Sugar: 70 g
Butter: 60 g and 20 g for the mold
Egg: 1
Salt: a pinch

-Coffee Cream:
Lukewarm strong coffee: 300 ml
Butter: 130 g
Sugar: 200 g
Eggs: 6

-Chocolate sauce:
Dark chocolate: 100 g
Sugar: 70 g

RECIPE:

-Pastry:
Mix 60 g of butter cut in small pieces with the sugar and salt. Then add the egg and mix. last, add the flour and mix.
Once the pastry has become homogeneous/smooth, wrap it in cellophane paper and leave it in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 100 degrees Celsius.
Butter the inside of a mold (24 cm diameter). Spread the pastry with a pastry roll and place inside mold.
Puncture pastry with a fork. Cover it with a sheet of baking paper. Fill it with dry beans or baking pellets and cook for 10 minutes.

-Coffee Cream:
Melt butter in the lukewarm coffee.
Beat the eggs with the sugar until the mixture whitens. Then add te butter coffee and mix.
Take the tart out of the oven. Take out beans and baking paper. Fill the tart with the coffee cream and bake at 80 degrees Celsius for 1 hour.

-Chocolate Sauce:
Cut the chocolate finely with a knife.
Heat 150 ml of water and sugar to boil.
Take off fire.
Add the chocolate and whisk it strongly until the chocolate has completely melted.

-Unmold the tart carefully after having cooled down completely.
Serve with lukewarm chocolate sauce.

NOTE:
The slow baking of the taart is necessary to preserve the smoothness of the coffee cream!

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French Dessert: Mousse Chocolat Cafe et Tuile Orange Cafe Chocolat

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CAFE-MOUSSE

Back into French Desserts!
Sorry for the fuzzy pic. I only had my mobile phone ready to take pics.
The titel is a bit long and needs a translation:
Coffee-scented Chocolate mousse and its Tile made of Orange, Coffee beans and Chocolate! (Phew!)

INGREDIENTS: For 6 people

-Mousse:
Chocolate: Black and coffee scented/perfumed, 200 g
Hot strong coffee: 1 cup
Eggs: 5
Butter: 50 g
Sugar: 30 g
Salt: 1 pinch

-Tuiles/Tiles
Chocolate perfumed coffee beans: 40 g
Coffee beans: 10
Flour: 60 g
Almonds (thinly sliced): 80 g
Butter: 100g
Brown sugar: 100 g
Orange juice: 200 ml

RECIPE:

-Mousse
Melt the chocolate and butter together over a bain-marie (one bowl into another bowl half full of water to avoid direct flame/fire contact with bowl). Dissolve the sugar into the strong hot coffee.
When the chocolate has melted add the coffee. Delicately mix, neither too long, nor too strongly, or you will break the harmony of the chocolate. Let cool down to lukewarm.
Break the eggs and separate the yolks and whites into two different bowls.
Add the salt to the egg white and whisk them into a solid meringue.
Add and mix the egg yolks into the coffee/butter/chocolate mixture.
Add and delicately fold into the meringued egg whites.
Pour the mousse into individual cups/bowls and leave inside the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.

-Tuiles/Tiles
Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius
Dry fry the thinned almonds on a frypan.
Crush the 10 coffee beans and add to the orange juice. Heat to boil.
Reduce to half and then filter the juice.
Melt butter on a very low fire. Then add the sugar, flour, orange juice and the almonds.
Let the tile paste cool down completely before adding the chocolate perfumed coffee beans.
On a non-stick oven plate (if unavailable, spread a cooking paper sheet over the oven sheet) pour the paste,1 tablespoon at a time and spread with back of the spoon.
Bake the tiles. They must be a bit thick an soft unde the teeth.
Keep the tiles in a tightly closed box until you serve them with the mousse.

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Vegan French Cuisine: Green Peas & Mint Chutney

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PEAS-MINT

I’ve said before that the French are also fond of vegetarian and vegan cuisine and are always ready to adapt their traditional rcipes to different priorities.

Here is a French-style chutney that even my Indian friends will appreciate:
Green Peas & Mint Chutney!

INGREDIENTS: for 4~6 persons

-Fresh green peas: 300 g
-Small new onions: 2, thinly sliced
-Olive oil (EV): 2 tablespoons
-Brown sugar (light brown variety if possible): 1 tablespoon
-Freshly grated ginger: 1 teaspoon
-Mint: 3 large sprigs, finely cut (reserve a few leaves for decoration)
-Green lemon juice: 1
-Salt & pepper to taste

RECIPE:

-Cook the gree peas (out of their pods!) in a pan full of boiling salted water for 4~5 minutes. Try and preserve some firmness. Cool completely.

-At the same time cook the onions in the oive oil for 2~3 minutes, taking car not to “colour” them.
Add grated ginger, sugar, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Let simmer for 2~3 minutes.

-Mash the green peas (keep some whole for better effect the you will add at the end) and add to the onions. Let simmer for 2^3 more minutes. Lats add the finely cut mint and transfer the chutney into a bowl.
Serve cool or slgtly chilled.

NOTE:
You can mash all the green peas, but keeping a few whole added with a few mint leaves will look great!

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Cheese Plate at Gentil (7)

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GENTIL-09-08-04

This article is again dedicated to Cheese Monger as he is interested in what we can expect here in Japan!

I don’t need to introduce Gentil and Ms. Keiko Kubota in Japan who is THE authority on cheese in Japan!

Look at picture above to find out what I sampled last Wednesday:

Left top: Chaource (Cow, France)
Left bottom: Bon de Sologne (Cow, France)

Centre under muscat raisins: Merois (Goat, France)
Centre bittom: Tsuki no Monogatari/Moon Story (Raw Cow milk, Japan, Hokkaido)

Right top: Mimolette, 2 months old (Cow, France)
Right bottom: Bleu d’Auvergne (Cow, France)

Another great plate, I can assure you!

Restaurant Gentil
Address:420-0031 Shizuoka Shi, Gofuku-cho, 2-9-1, Gennan Kairaku building, 2F
Tel.: 054-2547655 (Reservations advisable)
Fax: 054-2210509
Opening hours: 12:00~14:00, 18:00~last orders for meals at 21:30. Bar time 18:00~23:30. Closed on Mondays.
Credit cards OK
Homepage (Japanese)

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French Cuisine: Beignets de Sole au Parmesan & Mayonnaise verte/Sole fritters with Parmegiano and Green Mayonnaise

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SOLE-VERTE

A lot of people have this cringe/hate about mayonnaise.
Why?
Because they usually eat redy-made, meaning a sweet and cloy product akin to fast/junk food.
Make it yourself then! I can assure you your world will change (alright, I’m exagerating!LOL)!
Sole is in season. Parmegiano is a favourite. Why not indulge in the following dish (long title, sorry!):
French Cusine: Beignets de Sole au Parmesan & Mayonnaise verte/Sole fritters with Parmegiano and Green Mayonnaise!

INGREDIENTS: For 4 persons

-Sole filets: 500 g
-Bredcrumbs: 100 g
-Grated Parmegiano: 50 g
-Flour: 50 g
-Eggs: 2 (beaten in omelette)

Oil for deep-frying

-Mayonnaise:
Sunflower oil: 300 ml
Spinach: 25 g
Egg: 1
White wine vinegar: 2 teaspoons
Mixed fresh herbs (Chervil, Tarragon, ciboulette): 25 g
Salt and Pepper to taste

RECIPE:

-Prepare the mayonnaise:
First drop the spinach in boiling water. Let cook for a few seconds only. Take out. Drain well and process with herbs into a puree.
Put aside.
In a food processor drop the whole egg with the vinegar and salt.
Mix at slow speed.
Then pour the oil slowly incresing the mixer/processor’s speed along.
When the mayonnaise is ready, Drop the spinach and herbs puree in andmix quickly. Keep in a cool place

-Heat the dep-fry oil.
Cut the sole fillets in 2cm long pieces.
In three separate dishes place 1) the flour, 2) the beaten eggs, 3) the parmegiano and bredcrumbs mixed together.
Rool the fish in 1) the folur, 2) the beaten eggs and 39 into the Pamegiano/breadcrumbs mixture.

-Drop the fish into the oil and lt fry for 1 minute.
Take out and place on kitchen paper to take off excess oil.

-Serve hot with the green mayonnaise.

What wine with it: dry solid white wine!

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French Cake: Croustillant Banane Mangue/Banana & Mango Pie

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BANANA-MANGO

Still delving into my notes for more French desserts!
Bananas and mangoes are practically everywhere, so it should be a problem to realize this simple recipe:
Croustillant Banane Mangue/Banana & Mango Pie!

INGREDIENTS: For 4 persons

-Brick/Filo sheets: 4
-Banana: 1
-Mango: 1
-Butter: 25 g
-For the syrup:
Water: 250 ml
Sugarcane sugar/brown sugar: 3 tablespoons
Vanilla: 1 whol pod cut along its lengt
Juice of 1 orange
Juice of 1 gree lemon

-Pulp of 1 guava

RECIPE:

-In a small pan, drop all the ingredients for the syrup (Do not include the guava!) and cook on a medium fire for 10 minutes. Let cool completely and leave in a cool place.

-Peel the banana and mango and cut them in big pieces first.

-Put the banana and mango pieces into the syrup and let marinate for 30 minutes.

-Take the fruit pieces out of the syrup with a holed ladle to drain as much of the syrup as possible. Put the fruit on a piece of kitchen paper.

-Cut the fruit into small pieces.

-On a kitchen board, place a filo sheet and fold it once (double).
Put a large tablespoon of the cut fruit in the middle of the filo sheet.

-Melt the butter i a small pan.

-Fold the right third of the filo sheet onto the fruit, and fold the left third of the filo sheet on top. Delicately turn or twist each end so as to form a “papillote” (sweet wrapper) as in picture above.
Brush melted butter over the whole papillote.

-Bake at 180 degrees Celsius for 10~15 minutes.

-Serve hot with the syrup in a small pot to you have added guava pulp.

if you want to taste a wine with it, a port or banyuls or a sweet wine is best!

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Vegetarian French Cuisine: Terrine Bayadere de Poivrons/Pimento and Cheese Terrine

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POIVRONS

Soft Pimentoes or Poivrons in France are eaten from Spring to Fall, especially in the South.
Incidentally it is the vegetable richest in Vitamin C.
Bear in mind that the skin and seeds are difficult to digest.

Here is a fairly simple recipe for vegetarians I just found in my books:
Terrine Bayadere de Poivrons/Pimento and Cheese Terrine!

INGREDIENTS: For 4 persons

-Green pimentoes: 2 large ones
-Red pimentoes: 2 large ones
-Yellow Pimentoes: 3 large ones
-Fresh Goat Cottage Cheese (Petit Billy style)/ You may replace with any soft fresh cheese of your choice
Balsamico Vinegar: 3 tablespoons
-Herb-scented (taragon, etc…) olive oil (EV): 80 ml
-Red Chili Pepper (Espelette in France): 1 teaspoon
-Garlic: half a clove
-Ciboulette (or very thin leeks. If unavailable, flat parsley or fresh coriander): a few sprigs
-Fine salt: to taste

UTENSILS:
4 deep transparent glasses as shown on picture above.

RECIPE:

-Wash the pimentoes and grill, one colour at a time, inside a plate under the grill of an oven.

-Take out the pimentoes, once their skin has “cracked away” and wrap (colour separated!) inside foil paper or inside plastic pouches for 15 minutes
Use three plates for grilling. Deglaze each plate with one tablespoon of balsamico vinegar. Sieve the juice one by one into three small bowls or back into their plates, and keep for later process.

-Mix the cheese with half of the red chili pepper, fine salt and crushed/finely chopped garlic and 30 ml of olive oil.

-Peel and take seeds off pimentoes by colour.
Process (three different times) into puree with their deglazed juice and some olive oil. Season with red chili pepper and salt each of the purees.

-In each glass pour one pimento puree of your choice. Add one layer of cheese, then one layer of another pimento pure, and again one layer of cheese and the final layerof pimento puree.
Wrap with cellophane paper and leave in the refrigrerator for 6 hours.

-Before serving add chopped leeks or herbs.
Serve with a spoon and small toasts of your favourite bread!

Dry white wine is best with such a dish!

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French Cake by Bernard Heberle: Cassis Evolution

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CASSIS-EVOLUTION

My good French friend, Bernard Heberle, a native from Alsace in France and plying his trade as a patissier in Hamamatsu City, has just sent me his last creation:

Cassis-Evolution!

In his own words:
“Une nouvelle création … ” Évolution Cassis ”
C’est un gateau a base de mascarpone avec une douceur myrtille au chocolat blanc sur un pain de Genes et une touche de gelée de cassis. Très frais et de saison, les myrtilles sont excellentes cet été , malgré la pluie incessante. ”

“A new creation…”Evolution Cassis”
It is a cake with a mascarpone base qith a sweet blueberry and white chocolate layer on a Genes bread/short cake and a touch of cassis jelly.
Very fresh and seasonal. The blueberries are excellent this summer, in spite of the unceasing rain.”

Abondance
Address: Hamamatsu Shi, Sumiyoshi, 2-14-27 (in front of Seirei Hospital)
Tel.: 053-4738400
Fax: 053-4738401
Opening hours: 10:00~20:00. Closed on Tuesdays.
Homepage

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