Tag Archives: Cakes

French Dessert: Glace aux Mendiants/Beggars’ Ice Cream

BEGGARS

“Beggars” in French has two meanings:
1) hobo, mendicant, …
2) it is the name given to dry fruit and grains used in desserts and cakes.
It is a tradition for example to make a tart called the Beggars Tart with 7 different kinds of dry fruit and nuts in Winter.

This is why why this ice-cream is called “Beggars’ Ice Cream”!

INGREDIENTS: 4 persons

-Milk: 250 ml
-Thyme leaves: 1 tablespoon
-Sugar: 90 g
-Powder milk: 40 g
-Egg: 1
-Whole fresh cream: 120 ml

-Marrons glaces: 75 g
-Preserved orange peels: 5o g
-Unsalted pistachio: 15 g

RECIPE:

-In a large pan bring the milk to boil and let the thyme infuse into it.

-In a large bowl mix the sugar and the powder milk.

-Separate egg yolks and whites.
In a deep bowl beat the egg yolks with a whisker with a little lukewarm nilk. Add the sugar and milk powder and mix. Add the rest of the milk.
Pour back into the large pan and mix with a spatula over a medium low fire.

-When the cream has become homogeneous/smooth, take off the fire and pour back into the deep bowl. Le cool.

-When the cream has completely cooled down, add and mix in the fresh cream and leave in refrigerator for at least 20 minutes.

-Take the cream out and strain it to discard the thyme leaves.

-Switch the ice cream maker/ice cream freezer on. Pour in the cream and let it turn/work for 25 minutes. When the ice cream starts jellyfing add egg whites, marrons glaces, orange peels and pistachio.
Fill soft molds (to make ice-crams easy to unmold) with ice ceam and leave inside freezer until just before serving.

-Serve it decorated with small pieces of marrons glaces, orange peels and broken pistachio over a caramel tile!

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Japanese Soy Sauce: Varieties

SOY-2-KINDS
Japanese meal served with two kinds of soy sauce

Almost everyone knows or has heard about soy sauce (or soya sauce in Europe).
It is even used in all kinds of cuisines in the world, be they vegetarian or not.

SOY-VATS
Ancient soy vats.

Authentic soy sauces are made by mixing the grain and/or soybeans with yeast or kōji (麹, the mold Aspergillus oryzae or A. sojae) and other related microorganisms. Traditionally soy sauces were fermented under natural conditions, such as in giant urns and under the sun, which was believed to contribute to additional flavours. Today, most of the commercially-produced counterparts are instead fermented under machine-controlled environments.

Although there are many types of soy sauce, all are salty and “earthy”-tasting brownish liquids used to season food while cooking or at the table. Soy sauce has a distinct basic taste called umami by the Japanese (旨味, literally “delicious taste”). Umami was first identified as a basic taste in 1908 by Kikunae Ikeda of the Tokyo Imperial University. The free glutamates which naturally occur in soy sauce are what give it this taste quality.

SOY-3-KINDS
3 kinds of soy sauce as served in a Jpanese izkaya: だし醤油/Dashi Soy Sauce, 刺身醤油/oy Sauce for sashimi, 減塩醤油/salt-reduced soy sauce

Artificially hydrolyzed Soy sauce
Many cheaper brands of soy sauces are made from hydrolyzed soy protein instead of brewed from natural bacterial and fungal cultures. These soy sauces do not have the natural color of authentic soy sauces and are typically colored with caramel coloring, and are popular in Southeast Asia and China, and are exported to Asian markets around the globe. They are derogatorily called Chemical Soy Sauce (“化學醬油” in Chinese), but despite this name are the most widely used type because they are cheap. Similar products are also sold as “liquid aminos” in the US and Canada.

Some artificial soy sauces pose potential health risks due to their content of the chloropropanols carcinogens 3-MCPD (3-chloro-1,2-propanediol) and all artificial soy sauces came under scrutiny for possible health risks due to the unregulated 1,3-DCP (1,3-dichloro-2-propanol) which are minor byproducts of the hydrochloric acid hydrolysis.

SOY-2-KINDSa
Difference in colour between 薄口醤油/light soy sauce and 濃口醤油/strong soy sauce

Japanese soy sauce varieties

Buddhist monks introduced soy sauce into Japan in the 7th century, where it is known as “shōyu”. The Japanese word “tamari” is derived from the verb “tamaru” that signifies “to accumulate”, referring to the fact that tamari was traditionally from the liquid byproduct produced during the fermentation of miso. Japan is the leading producer of tamari.

Japanese soy sauce or shō-yu (しょうゆ, or 醤油), is traditionally divided into 5 main categories depending on differences in their ingredients and method of production. Most but not all Japanese soy sauces include wheat as a primary ingredient, which tends to give them a slightly sweeter taste than their Chinese counterparts. They also tend towards an alcoholic sherry-like flavor, due to the addition of alcohol in the product. Not all soy sauces are interchangeable.

Koikuchi (濃口, “strong flavor”)
Originating in the Kantō region, its usage eventually spread all over Japan. Over 80% of the Japanese domestic soy sauce production is of koikuchi, and can be considered the typical Japanese soy sauce. It is produced from roughly equal quantities of soybean and wheat. This variety is also called kijōyu (生醤油) or namashōyu (生しょうゆ) when it is not pasteurized.
Usukuchi (淡口, “light flavor”)
Particularly popular in the Kansai region of Japan, it is both saltier and lighter in color than koikuchi. The lighter color arises from the usage of amazake, a sweet liquid made from fermented rice, that is used in its production.
Tamari (たまり)
Produced mainly in the Chūbu region of Japan, tamari is darker in appearance and richer in flavour than koikuchi. It contains little or no wheat; wheat-free tamari is popular among people eating a wheat free diet. It is the “original” Japanese soy sauce, as its recipe is closest to the soy sauce originally introduced to Japan from China. Technically, this variety is known as miso-damari (味噌溜り), as this is the liquid that runs off miso as it matures.
Shiro (白, “white”)
A very light colored soy sauce. In contrast to “tamari” soy sauce, “shiro” soy sauce uses mostly wheat and very little soybean, lending it a light appearance and sweet taste. It is more commonly used in the Kansai region to highlight the appearances of food, for example sashimi.
Saishikomi (再仕込, “twice-brewed”)
This variety substitutes previously-made koikuchi for the brine normally used in the process. Consequently, it is much darker and more strongly flavored. This type is also known as kanro shoyu (甘露醤油) or “sweet shoyu”.

Newer varieties of Japanese soy sauce include:

Gen’en (減塩, “reduced salt”)
Low-salt soy sauces also exist, but are not considered to be a separate variety of soy sauce, since the reduction in salt content is a process performed outside of the standard manufacture of soy sauce.
Amakuchi (甘口, “sweet flavor”)
Called “Hawaiian soy sauce” in those few parts of the US familiar with it, this is a variant of “koikuchi” soy sauce.

All of these varieties are sold in the marketplace in three different grades according to how they were produced:

Honjōzō hōshiki (本醸造 方式)
Contains 100% naturally fermented product.
Shinshiki hōshiki (新式 方式)
Contains 30-50% naturally fermented product.
Tennen jōzō (天然 醸造)
Means no added ingredients except alcohol.

All the varieties and grades may be sold according to three official levels of quality:

Hyōjun (標準)
Standard pasteurized.
Tokkyū (特級)
Special quality, not pasteurized.
Tokusen (特選)
Premium quality, usually implies limited quantity.

Other terms unrelated to the three official levels of quality:

Hatsuakane (初茜)
Refers to industrial grade used for flavoring, powder.
Chōtokusen (超特選)
Used by marketers to imply the best.

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French Dessert: Tarte au Cafe/Coffee Tart

CAFE-TART

The French desserts series continue!
Notice that this tart is served with a sauce, both lukewarm!

Tart au Cafe/Coffee Tart!

INGREDIENTS: For 4 persons

-Pastry:
Flour: 125 g
Sugar: 70 g
Butter: 60 g and 20 g for the mold
Egg: 1
Salt: a pinch

-Coffee Cream:
Lukewarm strong coffee: 300 ml
Butter: 130 g
Sugar: 200 g
Eggs: 6

-Chocolate sauce:
Dark chocolate: 100 g
Sugar: 70 g

RECIPE:

-Pastry:
Mix 60 g of butter cut in small pieces with the sugar and salt. Then add the egg and mix. last, add the flour and mix.
Once the pastry has become homogeneous/smooth, wrap it in cellophane paper and leave it in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 100 degrees Celsius.
Butter the inside of a mold (24 cm diameter). Spread the pastry with a pastry roll and place inside mold.
Puncture pastry with a fork. Cover it with a sheet of baking paper. Fill it with dry beans or baking pellets and cook for 10 minutes.

-Coffee Cream:
Melt butter in the lukewarm coffee.
Beat the eggs with the sugar until the mixture whitens. Then add te butter coffee and mix.
Take the tart out of the oven. Take out beans and baking paper. Fill the tart with the coffee cream and bake at 80 degrees Celsius for 1 hour.

-Chocolate Sauce:
Cut the chocolate finely with a knife.
Heat 150 ml of water and sugar to boil.
Take off fire.
Add the chocolate and whisk it strongly until the chocolate has completely melted.

-Unmold the tart carefully after having cooled down completely.
Serve with lukewarm chocolate sauce.

NOTE:
The slow baking of the taart is necessary to preserve the smoothness of the coffee cream!

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French Dessert: Mousse Chocolat Cafe et Tuile Orange Cafe Chocolat

CAFE-MOUSSE

Back into French Desserts!
Sorry for the fuzzy pic. I only had my mobile phone ready to take pics.
The titel is a bit long and needs a translation:
Coffee-scented Chocolate mousse and its Tile made of Orange, Coffee beans and Chocolate! (Phew!)

INGREDIENTS: For 6 people

-Mousse:
Chocolate: Black and coffee scented/perfumed, 200 g
Hot strong coffee: 1 cup
Eggs: 5
Butter: 50 g
Sugar: 30 g
Salt: 1 pinch

-Tuiles/Tiles
Chocolate perfumed coffee beans: 40 g
Coffee beans: 10
Flour: 60 g
Almonds (thinly sliced): 80 g
Butter: 100g
Brown sugar: 100 g
Orange juice: 200 ml

RECIPE:

-Mousse
Melt the chocolate and butter together over a bain-marie (one bowl into another bowl half full of water to avoid direct flame/fire contact with bowl). Dissolve the sugar into the strong hot coffee.
When the chocolate has melted add the coffee. Delicately mix, neither too long, nor too strongly, or you will break the harmony of the chocolate. Let cool down to lukewarm.
Break the eggs and separate the yolks and whites into two different bowls.
Add the salt to the egg white and whisk them into a solid meringue.
Add and mix the egg yolks into the coffee/butter/chocolate mixture.
Add and delicately fold into the meringued egg whites.
Pour the mousse into individual cups/bowls and leave inside the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.

-Tuiles/Tiles
Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius
Dry fry the thinned almonds on a frypan.
Crush the 10 coffee beans and add to the orange juice. Heat to boil.
Reduce to half and then filter the juice.
Melt butter on a very low fire. Then add the sugar, flour, orange juice and the almonds.
Let the tile paste cool down completely before adding the chocolate perfumed coffee beans.
On a non-stick oven plate (if unavailable, spread a cooking paper sheet over the oven sheet) pour the paste,1 tablespoon at a time and spread with back of the spoon.
Bake the tiles. They must be a bit thick an soft unde the teeth.
Keep the tiles in a tightly closed box until you serve them with the mousse.

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Miso: The Basics

MISO-1
Three types of miso

Miso (みそ or 味噌) is a traditional Japanese seasoning produced by fermenting rice, barley and/or soybeans, with salt and a yeast called kōjikin (麹菌) in Japanese, the most typical miso being made with soybeans. The result is a thick paste used for sauces and spreads, pickling vegetables or meats, and mixing with dashi soup stock to serve as miso soup, Misoshiru (味噌汁), a Japanese culinary staple. High in protein and rich in vitamins and minerals, miso played an important nutritional role in feudal Japan. Miso is still very widely used in Japan, both in traditional and modern cooking, and has been gaining world-wide interest. Miso is typically salty, but its flavor and aroma depend on various factors in the ingredients and fermentation process. Different varieties of miso have been described as salty, sweet, earthy, fruity, and savory, and there is an extremely wide variety of miso available.

MISO-8
Miso from Nagano Prefecture on sale in Kyoto

The predecessor of miso originated in China during the 3rd century BC or earlier, and it is probable that this, together with related fermented soy-based foods, was introduced to Japan at the same time as Buddhism in the 6th century AD.This fermented food was called “Shi”.
Until the Muromachi era, miso was made without grinding the soybeans, somewhat like natto. In the Kamakura era, a common meal was made up of a bowl of rice, some dried fish, a serving of miso, and a fresh vegetable. In the Muromachi era, Buddhist monks discovered that soybeans could be ground into a paste, spawning new cooking methods where miso was used to flavor other foods.
In the Sengoku (Feudal) era, miso was useful as a military provision and precious nourishing food for soldiers.
During the Edo period miso was also called hishio and kuki.
In the modern era, the industrial method of producing miso in large quantities was established and it became rare to make miso at home, although miso made in farms has suddenly become fashinable as a health food.

MISO-2
Miso being fermented inside a large wood cask

VARIETIES (FLAVOUR)

The taste, aroma, texture, and appearance of any specific miso vary with the miso type as well as the region and season for which the miso was made. The ingredients used, temperature and duration of fermentation, salt content, variety of kōji/yeast, and fermenting vessel all contribute. The most common flavor categories of soy miso are:

Shiromiso, “white miso”
Akamiso, “red miso”

MISO-5
Kuromiso, “black miso”

Hatchomiso
White and red (shiromiso and akamiso) are the basic types of miso available in all of Japan as well as overseas. Different varieties are preferred in particular regions. For example, in the eastern Kantō region that includes Tokyo, the lighter shiromiso is popular, while in the western Kansai region encompassing Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe, darker brownish hatchomiso is preferred, and akamiso is favored in the Tokai area.

MISO-4
Akamiso and shiromiso

VARIETIES (INGREDIENTS)

The raw materials used to produce miso may include any mix of soybeans, barley, rice, buckwheat, millet, rye, wheat, hemp seed, and cycad, among others. Lately, producers in other countries have also begun selling miso made from chick peas, corn, azuki beans, amaranth, and quinoa. Fermentation time ranges from as little as five days to several years. The wide variety of Japanese miso is difficult to classify, but is commonly done by grain type, color, taste, and background.

MISO-6
Kinzanji/Kinzan Temple (金山寺味噌) miso

mugi (麦): barley
tsubu (粒): whole wheat/barley
aka (赤): red, made with rice koji and soybeans, medium flavor, most widely used in Japan
Hatchō (八丁): aged, strongest flavor, used mostly in Central Japan
shiro (白): rice, sweet white, fresh
shinshu (信州): rice, brown color
genmai (玄米): brown rice
awase (合わせ): layered, typically in supermarket
moromi (醪): chunky, healthy (kōji/yeast is unblended)
nanban (南蛮): chunky, sweet, for dipping sauce
inaka (田舎): farmstyle
taima (大麻): hemp seed
sobamugi (蕎麦): buckwheat
hadakamugi (裸麦): rye
meri (蘇鉄): made from cycad pulp, Buddhist temple diet
gokoku (五穀): “5 grains”: soy, wheat, barley, proso millet, and foxtail millet
Many regions have their own specific variation on the miso standard. For example, the soybeans used in Sendai miso are much more coarsely mashed than in normal soy miso.

Miso made with rice (including shinshu and shiro miso) is called kome (rice) miso (米味噌).

MISO-3
Miso sold in plastic container.

STORAGE AND PREPARATION

Miso typically comes as a paste in a sealed container, and should be kept refrigerated after opening. It can be eaten raw, and cooking changes its flavor and nutritional value; when used in miso soup, most cooks do not allow the miso to come to a full boil. Some people, especially those outside of Japan, go so far as to only add miso to preparations after they have cooled, to preserve the biological activity of the kōjikin/fermented yeast. Since miso and soy foods play a large role in the Japanese diet, there are a variety of cooked miso dishes as well.

MISO-7
Grilled miso seasoned rice balls and miso soup

MISO AS FOOD

Miso is a part of many Japanese-style meals. It most commonly appears as the main ingredient of miso soup, which is eaten daily by much of the Japanese population. The pairing of plain rice and miso soup is considered a fundamental unit of Japanese cuisine. This pairing is the basis of a traditional Japanese breakfast, although more and more Japanese in big towns eat European style as opposed to people living in the country.

MISO-9
Cucmber pickled in “gold miso”

Miso is used in many other types of soup and souplike dishes, including some kinds of ramen, udon, nabe, and imoni. Generally, such dishes have the title miso prepended to their name (for example, miso-udon), and have a heavier, earthier flavor and aroma compared to other Japanese soups that are not miso-based.

MISO-10
Fresh cucumber served with miso and sesame seeds

Many traditional confections use a sweet, thick miso glaze, such as mochidango. Miso glazed treats are strongly associated with Japanese festivals, although they are available year-round at supermarkets. The consistency of miso glaze ranges from thick and taffy-like to thin and drippy.

Soy miso is used to make a type of pickle called “misozuke” (味噌漬け). These pickles are typically made from cucumber, daikon, hakusai/Chinese cabbage, or eggplant/aubergine, and are sweeter and less salty than the standard Japanese salt pickle. Barley miso, or nukamiso (糠味噌), is used to make another type of pickle. Nukamiso is a fermented product, and considered a type of miso in Japanese culture and linguistics, but does not contain soy, and so is functionally quite different. Like soy miso, nukamiso is fermented using kōji mold.

Other foods with miso as an ingredient include:

dengaku (charcoal-grilled miso covered tofu)
yakimochi (charcoal-grilled miso covered mochi)
miso braised vegetables or mushrooms
marinades: fish or chicken can be marinated in miso and sake overnight to be grilled.
corn on the cob in Japan is usually coated with shiro miso, wrapped in foil and grilled.
sauces: sauces like misoyaki (a variant on teriyaki) are common.

NUTRITION AND HEALTH

The nutritional benefits of miso have been widely touted by commercial enterprises and home cooks alike. However, claims that miso is high in vitamin B12 have been contradicted in some studies. Part of the confusion may stem from the fact that some soy products are high in B vitamins (though not necessarily B12), and some, such as soy milk, may be fortified with vitamin B12. Some, especially proponents of healthy eating, suggest that miso can help treat radiation sickness, citing cases in Japan and Russia where people have been fed miso after the Chernobyl nuclear disaster and the atomic bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Also some experts suggest that miso is a source of Lactobacillus acidophilus or Lecithin which is a kind of phospholipid caused by fermentation is effective in the prevention of high blood pressure. Miso contains salt. A small amount is essential to animal life but most scientists believe an excess of it can cause a variety of health problems.

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Vegan Japanese Dessert: Tofu Puddings

TOFU-PUDDING-1a

It’s been some time since I have featured a recipe for the Tofu Tribe, (Terecita, Elin, Jenn and Jennifer !
I thought it was about time I introduced them to a very easy way to make a dessert with tofu!

TOFU PUDDING!

INGREDIENTS: for 5 ramequins

-Water: 100 ml
-Agar agar powder: 3 g
-Tofu: 400 ml
-Sugar: 30 g
-Lemon juice: 1 lemon

RECIPE:

-Heat the mashed tofu without bringing it to a boil. Add sugar and let it dissolve into the tofu. Mix if necesary.

-In a deep pan pour the water and add the agar agar. Mix well as you heat on a medium fire. Once cissolved continue mixing until the water has become transparent.

-Take off fire. Add tofu to agar agar water little by little and mix well. Add lemon juice and mix. Wait for a little while. Pour in ramequins or recipients of your choice.
Chill well before serving!

TOFU-PUDDING-1

Same recipe as above but replace water with English tea!
Vegan should make the tea with soy milk or water only!

TOFU-PUDDING-2

Same with orang juice!
In this case use 100 ml of water and 200 ml of organice orange juice!

TOFU-PUDDING-3

For this one replace orange juice with pineapple juice!

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Japanese Cuisine: Miso Soup-The Basics

MISOSOUP-1
Basic miso soup with Tofu and Wakame seaweed.

Miso soup (味噌汁, miso shiru) is a traditional Japanese soup consisting of a stock called “dashi” into which is mixed softened miso paste. Although the suspension of miso paste into dashi is the only characteristic that actually defines miso soup, many other ingredients are added depending on regional and seasonal recipes, and personal preferences.

Miso Paste:
The choice of miso paste for the soup defines a great deal of its character and flavor. Most miso pastes can be categorized into red (akamiso), white (shiromiso), or black (kuromiso), with darker pastes having a heartier, saltier flavor. There are many variations within these themes, including regional variations, such as Sendai miso; pastes designed to be used with specific misoshiru ingredients, such as yasaimiso, a white miso for use with miso-vegetable soup; and seasonal variations.

MISOSOUP-2
Miso Soup with Vegetables, tofu and pork

Stock/Dashi
The most common dashi soup stocks for miso soup are made of niboshi (dried baby sardines), kombu (dried kelp), katsuobushi (thin shavings of dried and smoked bonito, also called skipjack tuna), or hoshi-shiitake (dried shiitake mushrooms). The kombu can also be used in combination with katsuobushi or hoshi-shiitake. The kelp and/or shiitake dashi serve as a vegetarian or veagn soup stock.

Outside of Japan, American or European style miso soup is sometimes made by dissolving miso in a Western vegetable stock. The stock might include ingredients such as negi, carrot, potato and daikon radish. In some versions of the dish chicken stock, Western-style fish stock, and other non-dashi bases can even be used, but there is some debate over whether or not miso soups made using these non-traditional bases count as true misoshiru.

MISOSOUP-4
Vegetables in white miso soup.

Preparation:
Miso soup can be prepared in several ways, depending on the chef and the style of soup. Japanese recipes usually call for most vegetables and meats to be cooked in the simmering dashi, particularly mushrooms, daikon, carrots, potatoes, tofu, and fish. The miso is suspended separately in some dashi stock removed from the simmering mix, kept relatively cool (still hot, but below boiling) to keep the miso paste from cooking, which alters the flavour (cooking the miso “kills” the natural yeasts and reduces the health benefits of biologically active miso paste). When the vegetables are cooked, the stock is removed from heat, the miso suspension is added and mixed into the soup, any uncooked ingredients are added, and the dish is served.

In Japan, miso soup and white rice make up the central dishes of the traditional Japanese breakfast, and so most Japanese people drink miso soup at least once a day.

The soup is usually served in lacquer bowls with lids and drunk directly from the bowl, though the solid ingredients are eaten with chopsticks.

Instant Miso Soup:
Instant miso soup is available in single-serving packets, and generally contains dried wakame and tofu, soy beans that reconstitute rapidly on the addition of hot water. These are popular in the Japanese workplace, where miso soup can be made with lunch as easily as green tea, and using the same water. Instant miso soup, however, have up to 3 times the amount of sodium and MSG. Instant miso soup is also available in many grocery stores outside of Japan. These have a shelf life of between 3 to 12 months.

Next to come: Miso SoupRecipes and Preparation of Miso!

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Japanese Cuisine/Kaiseki 3: Bento, Lunch Box Samples

KAISEKI-2

As mentioned before, kaiseki ryori also comes under the form of bento.
The latter can be ordered in restaurants or even on the internet.

Here is a typical collection of 10 different bento/lunch boxes whose prices vary from 14 to 35 US $.
Can you recodnize the ingredients?

KAISEKI-BENTO-1
“Hanagoromo”

KAISEKI-BENTO-2
“Youseikoubai”

KAISEKI-BENTO-3
“Harugasumi”

KAISEKI-BENTO-4
“Hanakosode”

KAISEKI-BENTO-5
“Umekoshiki”

KAISEKI-BENTO-6
“Harunokoto”

KAISEKI-BENTO-7
“Akinofue”

KAISEKI-BENTO-8
“Kagamishishi”

KAISEKI-BENTO-9
“Kyoukanoko”

KAISEKI-BENTO-10
“Funabenken”

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Japanese Cuisine/Kaiseki 2: Full Course Samples

KAISEKI-1a

The second part of this series explaining the basics of kaiseki ryori features a selection of full course meal.
Let me remind the usual components of a kaiseki meal:

ORDER
Originally, kaiseki comprised a bowl of miso soup and three side dishes. It has since evolved to include an appetizer, sashimi, a simmered dish, a grilled dish, and a steamed course, in addition to other dishes at the discretion of the chef.

-Sakizuke/先付: an appetizer similar to the French amuse-bouche.
-Hassun/八寸: the second course, which sets the seasonal theme. Typically one kind of sushi and several smaller side dishes.
-Mukozuke/向付: a sliced dish of seasonal sashimi.
-Takiawase/焚き合せ: vegetables served with meat, fish or tofu; the ingredients are simmered separately.
-Futamono/蓋物: a “lidded dish”; typically a soup.
-Yakimono/焼き物: Broiled seasonal fish.
-Su-zakana/酢魚: a small dish used to clean the palate, such as vegetables in vinegar.
-Hiyashi-bachi/冷やし撥: served only in summer; chilled, lightly-cooked vegetables.
-Naka-choko/中ちょこ: another palate-cleanser; may be a light, acidic soup.
-Shiizakana/しい魚: a substantial dish, such as a hot pot.
-Goha, o-shokuji/ご飯,お食事: a rice dish made with seasonal ingredients.
-Ko no mono/この物: seasonal pickled vegetables.
-Tome-wan/留め碗: a miso-based or vegetable soup served with rice.
-Mizumono/水物: a seasonal dessert; may be fruit, confection, ice cream, or cake.

Now look at the following pictures and try to find what is featured!

KAISEKI-3
Seasonal kaiseki, spring and summer style

KAISEKI-4
Seasonal kaiseki, cold weather-style with nabe mono.

KAISEKI-5
Kaiseki, shabu shabu course style

KAISEKI-6
Kaiseki with hot dish

KAISEKI-7
Kaiseki, nabe course

KAISEKI-8
Kaiseki, bento style

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Japanese Cuisine/Kaiseki 1: Introduction

KAISEKI-1

I’ve been asked quite a few times to explain and give examples of Kaiseki (Kaiseki Ryōri), a tradional form of Japanese Cuisine.
Here is a mini series that I hope will help friends to at least understand the basics!

Kaiseki (懐石) or kaiseki ryōri (懐石料理) is a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner analogous to Western haute cuisine.

There are basically two kinds of traditional Japanese meal styles called “kaiseki” or “kaiseki ryōri.” The first, where “kaiseki” is written as 会席 (and kaiseki ryōri, 会席料理), referring to the fancy meal served at banquets. The other is written 懐石 or 懐石料理, referring to the simple meal that the host of a chanoyu/tea ceremony gathering serves to the guests, and which is also known as cha-kaiseki (茶懐石).

DISHES
In the present day, kaiseki is a type of art form that balances the taste, texture, appearance, and colors of food. To this end, only fresh seasonal ingredients are used and are prepared in ways that aim to enhance their flavor. Local ingredients are often included as well. Finished dishes are carefully presented on plates that are chosen to enhance both the appearance and the seasonal theme of the meal. Dishes are beautifully arranged and garnished, often with real leaves and flowers, as well as edible garnishes designed to resemble natural plants and animals.

ORDER
Originally, kaiseki comprised a bowl of miso soup and three side dishes. It has since evolved to include an appetizer, sashimi, a simmered dish, a grilled dish, and a steamed course, in addition to other dishes at the discretion of the chef.

-Sakizuke: an appetizer similar to the French amuse-bouche.
-Hassun: the second course, which sets the seasonal theme. Typically one kind of sushi and several smaller side dishes.
-Mukozuke: a sliced dish of seasonal sashimi.
-Takiawase: vegetables served with meat, fish or tofu; the ingredients are simmered separately.
-Futamono: a “lidded dish”; typically a soup.
-Yakimono: Broiled seasonal fish.
-Su-zakana: a small dish used to clean the palate, such as vegetables in vinegar.
-Hiyashi-bachi: served only in summer; chilled, lightly-cooked vegetables.
-Naka-choko: another palate-cleanser; may be a light, acidic soup.
-Shiizakana: a substantial dish, such as a hot pot.
-Gohan: a rice dish made with seasonal ingredients.
-Ko no mono: seasonal pickled vegetables.
-Tome-wan: a miso-based or vegetable soup served with rice.
-Mizumono: a seasonal dessert; may be fruit, confection, ice cream, or cake.

KAISEKI-2

CASUAL KAISEKI
The thing which put all menus of Kaiseki in Jubako (a nest of boxes). Shokado-bento falls under this, too.

Kaiseki is often served in ryokan/traditional inns in Japan, but it is also served in small restaurants. Kyoto is well known for its kaiseki.
Shizuoka is also renown for its kaiseki reastaurants thanks to the abundance of natural ingredients all year round.

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Japanese Cake: Matcha Sticks

MATTCHA-STICK-1

Matcha tea, or refined tea powder is quickly becoming popular all over the world.
Now, you don’t have to go all the way to Japan to find some if you live in the States! Just the excellent resource website in Los Angeles called Matcha Source!
(I do not have any interest inthe company, but I thought it deserved to be known!)

Here is another easy recipe for a cake you can use for any occasion or even as a gift:
Matcha Sticks!

INGREDIENTS: For 12 sticks
-Eggs: 2
-Sugar: 50 g
-Honey (liquid9: 20 g
-Butter: 50 g
Flour: 50 g
-Almond Powder: 50 g
-Matcha: 5 g
-Baking Powder: half a teaspoon
-Kuro mame/Black beans (feijao style/boiled): as many as you like”

RECIPE:

-Eggs must be at room temperature. Take them out of the fridge and leave them to attain room temperature if necessary.
Mix flour, almond powder, matcha and baking powder in a bowl.
Melt butter in microwave oven for a minute.

MATTCHA-STICK-2
-In another bowl, beta eggs. Add sugar, honey. Mix well with an electric whisker.

MATTCHA-STICK-3
-Progressively add flour mixture and mix well. Once all the flour has been mixed, add melted butter little by little and mix well.

MATTCHA-STICK-4
-Cover inside of an oven dish with baking paper. Pour the cake mixture in. Add the beans in parrallel rows.
Bake for 20 minutes at 170 degrees Celsius.

MATTCHA-STICK-5
-Once cooked, take out the cake together with the baking paper.
Once completely cooled down, cut and serve.

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French Cake: Croustillant Banane Mangue/Banana & Mango Pie

BANANA-MANGO

Still delving into my notes for more French desserts!
Bananas and mangoes are practically everywhere, so it should be a problem to realize this simple recipe:
Croustillant Banane Mangue/Banana & Mango Pie!

INGREDIENTS: For 4 persons

-Brick/Filo sheets: 4
-Banana: 1
-Mango: 1
-Butter: 25 g
-For the syrup:
Water: 250 ml
Sugarcane sugar/brown sugar: 3 tablespoons
Vanilla: 1 whol pod cut along its lengt
Juice of 1 orange
Juice of 1 gree lemon

-Pulp of 1 guava

RECIPE:

-In a small pan, drop all the ingredients for the syrup (Do not include the guava!) and cook on a medium fire for 10 minutes. Let cool completely and leave in a cool place.

-Peel the banana and mango and cut them in big pieces first.

-Put the banana and mango pieces into the syrup and let marinate for 30 minutes.

-Take the fruit pieces out of the syrup with a holed ladle to drain as much of the syrup as possible. Put the fruit on a piece of kitchen paper.

-Cut the fruit into small pieces.

-On a kitchen board, place a filo sheet and fold it once (double).
Put a large tablespoon of the cut fruit in the middle of the filo sheet.

-Melt the butter i a small pan.

-Fold the right third of the filo sheet onto the fruit, and fold the left third of the filo sheet on top. Delicately turn or twist each end so as to form a “papillote” (sweet wrapper) as in picture above.
Brush melted butter over the whole papillote.

-Bake at 180 degrees Celsius for 10~15 minutes.

-Serve hot with the syrup in a small pot to you have added guava pulp.

if you want to taste a wine with it, a port or banyuls or a sweet wine is best!

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French Cake by Bernard Heberle: Cassis Evolution

CASSIS-EVOLUTION

My good French friend, Bernard Heberle, a native from Alsace in France and plying his trade as a patissier in Hamamatsu City, has just sent me his last creation:

Cassis-Evolution!

In his own words:
“Une nouvelle création … ” Évolution Cassis ”
C’est un gateau a base de mascarpone avec une douceur myrtille au chocolat blanc sur un pain de Genes et une touche de gelée de cassis. Très frais et de saison, les myrtilles sont excellentes cet été , malgré la pluie incessante. ”

“A new creation…”Evolution Cassis”
It is a cake with a mascarpone base qith a sweet blueberry and white chocolate layer on a Genes bread/short cake and a touch of cassis jelly.
Very fresh and seasonal. The blueberries are excellent this summer, in spite of the unceasing rain.”

Abondance
Address: Hamamatsu Shi, Sumiyoshi, 2-14-27 (in front of Seirei Hospital)
Tel.: 053-4738400
Fax: 053-4738401
Opening hours: 10:00~20:00. Closed on Tuesdays.
Homepage

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French Dessert: Tourtelettes a la Creme d’Orange/Small Orange Cream Pies

ORANGE-CREAM

I continue with the series of desserts found in my old notes!
Oranges are coming thick and fast on the markets.
Toutelettes in French mean small covered tarts/pies
French Dessert: Toutrtelettes a la Creme d’Orange/Small Orange Cream Pies!

INGREDIENTS: For 4 persons

-Pastry:
Flour: 400 g
Softened butter: 200 g
Sugar: 2 tablespoons
Grated orange skin: 1 whole (organic if possible)
egg: 1 + 1 yolk
Salt: a pinch

-Orange Cream:
Organic oranges: 4
Hazlenuts: 10
Orange, Citrus and Grapefruit Jam (in unavailable, orange jam is fine): 1 tablespoon
Sugar: 1 tablespoon
Eggs: 3
Fresh cream: 2 tablespoons
Thickening agent (arrow root is best. If unavailable high quality cornstarch): 1 tablespoon

RECIPE:

-The evening before, prepare the pastry:
Mix flour, 1 tablespoon of sugar, salt and grated orange skin. Add butter and mix. Beat the egg and add, kneading it in as quickly as possible. If needed add a little water. Make a bowl, wrap it in cellophane paper and leave inside refrigerator.

-Next day:
Take wedges out of the oranges. Take off thin skins and discard. Drain. Chop the hazlenuts finely.
In a bowl, mix eggs and thickening agent, sugar, fresh cream, jam and hazlenuts. Carefully add the the orange wedges. Leave inside refrigerator.

Divide the pastry into two parts, one made up of two thirds, the other one of one third.
Let rest at room temperature for 1 hour.
Pre-heat oven to 180 degrees Celsius.
Make 4 circles with the first two thirds about 5 mm thick and spread them inside tart molds leaving the pastry coming over the brim.
Stab pastry with a fork.
Keep inside refrigerator for 30 more minutes.
Take out of refrigerator. Fill tarts with the orange cream up to two thirds of its depth.
Make 4 circles with other third of pastry wide enough to be slightly wider than the molds. Place one circle on top of each tart/pie and secure it by pinching both pastries together.
Make a small hole in the middle and insert a small cone of baking paper inside.
Bake for 20 minutes.
Take out of oven.
Beat the egg yolk with 2 tablespoons of water and brush the whole top of the pie. Sprinkle with a little sugar and bake again for 10 minutes.

Serve lukewarm.

To be enjoyed with a sparkling white wine or lemonade!

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French Dessert: Creme Brulee aux Myrtilles/Blueberries Creme Brulee

BLUEBERRY-BRULEE

I found a whole series of desserts in my old notes!
Blueberries are still in season.
Here is an easy and very tasty variation of a classice French dessert:
French Dessert: Creme brulee aux Myrtilles/Blueberries Creme Brulee!

INGREDIENTS: For 4 persons

-Egg yolks: 8
-Blueberries: 350 g
-Unskimmed milk: 300 ml
-Thick fresh ceam: 700 ml
-White sugar: 200 g
-Vanilla: 1 whole pod
-Sucre cassonade/brown sugar: 2 tablespoons

RECIPE:

-Pre-heat oven to 150 dgrees Celsius with a large deep oven plate filled with water up to a third of its depth.

-Make a cut along the vanilla pod and mix the inside with the milk in a deep pan. Bring slowly to boil.

-Beat the egg yolk and white sugar together in a separate bowl.

-Add the fresh cream. Mix. Add the vanilla milk and mix.

-Place the blueberries inside dessert dishes. Cover with the hot cream. Place the dishes in the bain-marie and cook for 20 minutes inside oven.

-Last and just before eating, sprinkle each dish with brown sugar and caramelize the cream under the grill.

-Serve lukewarm or cold.

If you wish to taste it with wine, a sparkling white wine would be great!

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