Japanese Seasonal Fish: Saba/Mackerel

February 6, 2010 dragonlife 5 Comments

Mackerel or saba is a fish eaten over the whole Northern Hemisphere and does come under many varieties and names.
In Japan it is mainly called “Saba”, “Masaba” or “Sekisaba”.
In this country it is mainly caught off Oita, Saga Prefecture, although quite a few are caught off our coasts, especially off Yaizu.
They feed on plankton mainly.

They are prepared and cooked in many guises. In France, my birthplace, they are steamed and then pickled in white wine and spices before being canned.

naturally tinned tuna is available in Japan,too!

In Northern Europe they also eaten half raw as smorgasbrod and pickled fish.

It can be appreciated as sashimi, but it must be absolutely fresh and is best served with grated fresh ginger and lemon.
As far as sushi is concerned, “masaba” variety is best

Saba Konbujime nigiri.

It is especially popular as “oshizushi” (pressed sushi).

Double oshizushi!

My preference goes for Saba konbujime.

Saba Bogata

The mackerel is kept inside a variety of wet seaweed for an hour or so before put whole on top of a long “bar” of rice, then cut to size.

Saba Heshiko Zuke.
Saba/Mackerel has been a staple fish in Japan since immemorial times.
One way to conserve it for better transport away from the shores was “Saba Heshiko zuke”, that is pickled in miso and sake white lees.

Saba/mackerel is easily grilled, either on the stick as above,

or grilled and served cut in slices.

The same grilled saba can be served as oshizushi/presed sushi!

Saba can be also served to a tatsty crispiness by deep-frying it!

Or simmered the Japanese way with miso, sake, soy sauce, ginger and mirin!

A very versatile fish!

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Vegetables Facts & Tips 10: Egg Plants/Aubergines (amended & expanded)

February 6, 2010 dragonlife 3 Comments

aubergines-1

The eggplant, aubergine, or brinjal (Solanum melongena) is a plant of the family Solanaceae (also known as the nightshades) and genus Solanum. It bears a fruit of the same name, commonly used as a vegetable in cooking. As a nightshade, it is closely related to the tomato and potato and is native to India and Sri Lanka.

That for the Wikipedia definition. The word Aubergine is mainly used in Europe. It comes in many shapes, sizes and even colours, but they share the same facts.

FACTS:
-Season: June to September in the Northern Hemisphere, but are available all year round thanks to greenhouse cultivation.
-Main beneficial elements: Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium, Vitamin C and B1, B2
-90% is water, but the skin contains a lot of polyphenols so useful against ageing and arteries cleaning!
It is also of a great help to fight diabetes.

VARIETIES:

As mentioned above, aubergines come in many varieties, but I am introducing here only the varieties and hybrids grown in Japan.

The first one I would to make known is particular to this country:

aubergines-mizu

“Mizu Nasu”, litterally “Water Aubergine”
It has the particularity that it can be eaten raw cut and served like sashimi! With miso, pickled plum flesh, wasabi or soy sauce, it opens all kinds of possibilities fro vegans, vegetarians and raw food lovers!

“Bei Nasu”
An American hybrid popular for its large round size.

“Ao nasu”, or green aubergine
Also called “Midori Nasu”. The skin is hard but will soften quickly upon cooking. Appreciated grilled.

“Shiro Nasu”, or white aubergines.
The white colour is due to the absence of Nathnin.
Will get very soft upon cooking.

“Naga Nasu”, or litterally “Long Aubergine”.
Can grow up 30 cm long. Soft flesh, it is most popular grilled.

“Kamo Nasu”
A typical variety originally grown in Kyoto. Small and round with a finely-grained texture. Very popular in higher class gastronomy.

“Zebra Nasu”
Also called Italian Aubergine. Valued for its colourand designs.
Appropriate for slow cooking as hard.

“Tozen Nasu”
Small variety.

The small size of Tozen Nasu Aubergines makes it popular for pickles inparticular.

“Batten Nasu”
From Kumamamoto Prefecture. Sweet and containing a lot of water. Can be eaten raw.

“Okita Nasu”
Another small variety.

Okita Nasu are minuscule, making them very popular for pickles!

“Aka Nasu”, or red aubergine.
Large and beautiful, with little acidity, it is one of the most popular varieties in this country, especially grilled.

“Ko Nasu”, or litterally small aubergine.
Sweet, soft skin, almost containing no seeds, it is popular for pickles. Also exist round.

“Stick Taste”
A new variety, about 10 cm long and svelte. Popular stir-fried. Will keep its colour and design even cooked.

“Thai Nasu”
Small, roundish. Hard variety with a lot of seeds. Slow cooked in curries.

TIPS:

-Choose specimens with a deep colour, bright appearance and comparatively light weight.
-To preserve them, wrap them individually in cellophane paper before storing them in the refrigerator.
-Before cooking them, cut them and leave them in clear water util usage to prevent oxydizing.
If you want to fry them, cut them first and rub them with a lttle salt to take excess water out of them.

HEALTH FACTS:

-Combined with konnyaku/Devil’s Tongue Tuber/Elephant Foot Tuber, or okra, or enoki mushrooms, or burdock root, helps combat artery hardening, cancer and high blood pressure.

-Combined wiyh carrot, or kabocha, or spinach, or pink grapefruit, helps combat cancer and colds, helps skin rejuvenation.

-Combined with wax gourd, or tomato, or cockles, or small clams, helps combat diabetes, cancer and obesity.

-Combined with miso or enoki mushrooms, helps combat cancer, helps lower blood cholesterol and stimulates blood flow.

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Oden: A Shizuoka Delicacy!

February 5, 2010 dragonlife Leave a comment

Dark Shizuoka Oden

When winter seems bent on holding us company and taking a sadistic pleasure listening to our moans, everything to warm up our bodies is welcome.
The Japanese have come up with the ideal solution: Oden (おでん)!
The beauty of it is that it is sustaining food, quite cheap fare by this country standards and very comforting.

For a closer look!

Oden has a long history. It can be traced back to Edo times when it was called Kanto-daki/関東煮, meaning Kanto region stew. At the time it was mainly made with strong soy sauce and soup stock extracted from a combination of konbu/seaweed, whale meat and beef tendons.
The whalemeat has disappeared but the broth is still made with the same soy sauce, seaweed and beef tendons in the east of Japan.
On the other hand, many contend that Oden was originally what is now commonly called misodengaku or simply dengaku. Take your pick!

Dark Shizuoka Oden again!

It can be found all over the Japanese archipelago all year round (not only in winter!) in many guises and many trends, although it can roughly be divided into three categories:
-Simmered in a light broth most popular in the Kansai Region/Western Japan.
-Served with Miso, notably in the Nagoya area.
-Cooked in a dark soup in the Kanto Region/Eastern Japan.
Many people will argue that each region, or even city, has its own original brand of oden, and they might be right as ingredients greatly vary although the three above methods prevail.
The Japanese are so entrenched in their fondness of oden that regular TV shows extol the virtues of their national comfort food with “talents” recruited in each Prefecture on a single stage!

Even darker Shizuoka Oden!

But wherever you go, look forward to sampling common ingredients:
-Eggs: they are first boiled before being skewered and left in the broth. Actually skewering oden is far from being universal. But the sticks attached to them will certainly help you when choose them out of impossibly dark soup in Shizuoka!
-Potatoes: popular almost everywhere, they are seemingly a favorite of expats.
Now, have you ever wondered how potatoes do not break up being left for ages in hot broth and roughly manipulated around?
The potatoes are first boiled to about 80% and then plunged into ice water or immediately locked in a fridge. Do not be worried when the local odenyasan/oden shop owner opens his/her fridge for more potatoes to add into the broth, but choose them with a nice color when fishing them out!
-Daikon, or Japanese long radish: these are also prepared like potatoes to ensure they do not break.
-Konnyaku: Devil’s Tongue tuber jelly: some odenya will serve it in thick triangular or rectangular pieces or as ito konnyaku/konnyaku vermicelli.
-Tofu or bean curd: it is usually of the harder kind and seared first before plunging them in the broth.

Out of the pot!

Oden is often sold from food carts, and most Japanese convenience stores now have simmering oden pots in winter containing different kinds of oden sold, with single-ingredient varieties as cheap as 50 yen.

You can of course buy any ingredients of your liking, cook them in your preferred broth at home with hot Japanese mustard and some beer or (hot) sake like many do in Japanese households.

As served in Odenya!

But the best way to enjoy oden and discover their varieties is to eat outside with a mind to have a (few) drinks on your own or with special company!

Shizuoka Aoba Koen Oden Alley!

Now Shizuoka Oden has probably become the most famous (maybe notorious?) variety in Japan.
In an era when so-called B-Gourmet, or even C-Gourmet (Japanese expressions!) have become a regular feature on TV and other media, Shizuoka is not following the norms.
Odenya there serve a dark (and even black to visitors from Kansai who favour a light dashi!) broth flavored with beef stock and strong soy sauce. Moreover all ingredients are skewered, that for “true” Shizuoka Oden. Another peculiarity is that they are served with a powdery mixture of dried ground fish (sardine, mackerel or bonito shavings) and aonori (edible seaweed). More often customers will be handed plates and allowed to take out their preferred morsels and spoon out some oden seasoning powder they will liberally sprinkle over their food. On top of this the same customers will add hot Japanese mustard from one of the pots on the table or counter.

Shizuoka Oden Pack

Visitors from other regions might entertain some reservations when witnessing Shizuokans choose with utmost care the oldest pieces, some of them eggs which have become a solid burnt brown on the outside or triangular pieces of fish paste that no one else would be able to recognize as such!

Now, if you have the occasion to stop and visit Shizuoka City (other areas in the prefecture do also have their own peculiar tidbits on offer like beef lungs in Gotenba!), go to Aoba Koen Park Street.
The whole park used to be lined with yatai/food stands serving oden and drinks from as early as 3 o’clock in the afternoon (some still do) until the wee hours of the morning.
But a new hygiene law in the 1960’s forced them into moving inside alleys and corridors between other buildings where the became Aoba Oden Alleys.
They totalled at least 36 shops at the present, all with their specialties and famous characters. Actually an official pamphlet lists more than 80 specialized odenya and more than 300 izakayas serving real Shizuoka Oden!

Shizuoka Oden Festival Poster.

Every year a Shizuoka Oden Festival is held in mid-February in the Aoba Koen and Gofuku-cho area for the pleasure all, adults and children, day or night, Japanese or expats!
The perfect comfort food with superlative Shizuoka Sake!

For people who do not have the time to visit Shizuoka, oden are sold in tins, cans, and bags on the Shizuoka JR Station platforms!

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Japanese Seasonal Fish: Sanma/Mackerel Pike

February 5, 2010 dragonlife 2 Comments

“Sanma” or Mackerel Pike usually comes on our plates with the advent of Autumn, but can be found until mid-winter in Shizuoka Prefecture
Known under other names such “Saira” or “Banjyo”, it is a fish with red meat rich with proteins.
In season, the flesh is fatty and sweet.

Its Japanese name 秋刀魚 means Autumn Sword Fish!

It is mainly caught off the north eastern shores of Japan as the fish swims down from Hokkaido.
But the more south it is caught, the less fat it will contain.
The annual catch exceeds 20,000 tonnes, although breeding is increasingly successful.
If you eat it at a sushi restaurant, you can expect its bones and head served deep-fried.

As sashimi it can be enjoyed straight with wasabi and soy sauce.
But as it is a red-flesh fish it beautifully combines with grated ginger, sliced myoga or chopped thin leeks.

As sushi it does come in many forms and can be pretty spectacular as a single sushi nigiri serving!

Another sushi nigiri sample!

In waetern Japan it is very popular as oshizushi/pressed sushi.

Another popular oshizushi version is “bo-gata/whole fish sushi”!

Bo-gata is often encountered as a sushi bento/lunch box!

As it is a very rich fish, it can be eaten simply grilled with its skin and grated daikon and lemon.

It is easy to manipulate such as the above sanma and bacon roll (later grilled)!

Of course it can be simmered Jpaanese style with soy sauce, mirin, sake and ginger!

As himono/dried fish it is practical for carrying and grilling later!

Tinned/canned it is comparatively cheap and can be accomodated in many ways, such as with kimchi!

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Daikon Couple: The Pious and The Pervert…

February 5, 2010 dragonlife 2 Comments

Just found this odd couple lying on the kitchen floor lying in unknowing bliss before being chopped into stew!
They had come form the Missus’ parents farm.

Now, why did the Missus trim that appendage?

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French Restaurants: Dinner at Pissenlit

February 4, 2010 dragonlife 2 Comments

Service: excellent and very friendly
Facilities: great washroom, great cleanliness overall
Prices: reasonable, good value.
Strong points: Interesting wine list. Great use of local products.
!

The other day, the Missus finally got her wish, dinner at Pissenlit (as for me I already had a couple!)
I already introduced this particular French restaurant time and again as one of the best in town using great ingredients, seasonal only, at really “soft” prices!

Actually we had timed this visit perfectly as the chef was going to call me as he had finally received something I’d been crying for time and time again (tell you later!)

To put things short again here what we had:

First the wine: a very well-priced honest Bourgogne Pinot Noir red by Domaine Malvoissine 2007 distributed by Louis Latour.

Very dark clean red, plenty of nose, a bit young, but just appropriate for the whole meal.

Cute gougeres to help overcome our impatience and start tasting the wine!

As the Missus also wanted to have a try I chose the new white asparaguses with cod sperm sacs sauteed meuniere with Provencale sauce. Something you won’t get outside Japan! Even the Missus who usually can’t face cod sperm sacs appreciated them!

The Missus had been waiting for that!
Cassolette de Champignons et d’Escargots de Bourgogne!
I can tell I had some of these mushrooms and snails!
They were perfect and not overwhelmed with garlic!

The Missus delved into this colourful beef cheek in cassis sauce and Shizuoka Organic vegetables. I also made sure she left me a bit!

Now I was looking forward to these little beauties: Rognons de Veau/Veal Kidneys!
The Missus was not convinced this time. Cooked to perfection, soft outside, crunchy inside flambee with cognac in cream sauce!
My Dad would cross the World for these (a specialty of my brother!)!

To ned it (and the wine with it) I had a small plate of French cheese: Cote, Camembert at Pave d’Affinois.

The Missus went for the specila strawberry short cake. A very light and tasty marvel miles ahead of what we find at cake shops!

Red Fruit Dance!

PISSENLIT
420-0839 Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Takajo, 2-3-4
Tel.: 054-270-8768
Fax: 054-627-3868
Business hours: 11:30~14:30; 17:00~22:00
Closed on Tuesdays and Sunday evening
Homepage (Japanese)
Credit Cards OK

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Gastronomic Cycling in Shizuoka (5)

February 4, 2010 dragonlife 2 Comments

It’s never been so cold in Shizuoka City, the mildest area in Japan after Okinawa, and although we don’t have snow in our city it is chilly and windy. But cycling around is certainly a great way to get warmer!

The Aoba and its prolongation the Tokiwa Park streets start from behind the Shizuoka City Hall, rebuilt after the Mayor of time, a sister idot called (I will have a few words against our mayors in this article! Soory!) Ogino decided he would build a city hall higher, even by a single metre that the Prefectural Hall standing across the street. True!

They’re everywhere, ain’t they? (like the spammers?)

Aoba Koen means Green Leaves Park. That is until another beauty of an idiot Mayor called Shingo Amano was long enough in office before a finacial scandal forced him into early retirement had all the trees uprooted and the whole park redesigned as a concrete walking area!

Nonetheless, Shizuoka People took it in their stride and made do with what was left and trued to add a touch of olour. This very popular cake shop (has branches in Tokyo and Kyoto, although it from Shizuoka City) is called “Qu’il Fait Bon!” (should have been called “Que c’est Bon!”….)

The entrance of LOFT, probably the best odds and ends shop in town.

Just loved this izakaya sign, Daikon!

Is thi fish edible? I can imagine what the French would use it for on the First of April!

Happy New Hair!

Sumarutei, one of the most conspicuous standing noodles counter shop.

Sushi Ko, my favourite Sushi Restaurant!

The greatest vegan sushi in the Prefecture!

Not a church, but a beauty salon!

Aka Kara/Red Hot! Cheap and hard on your ulcers?

Encounter of the third kind?

Pets are kings (and queens) in Japan. This shop is cafe where owners and their pets can enjoy a coffee and buy all kinds of gadgets (and clothes!) for thei dogs in particular!

Now, that wasteful idiot of (kickedout) Mayor Shingo Amano had a French (tears…) artist build that contraption which rolls over when full of water.

And how much did that cost the taxpayers?
500,000 US$ (at the time!), and to think it will probably roll away for good when we have THE earthquake we all expect!

Well, we already had a “coyote”!

Aoba Oden Row.
22 minuscule restaurants specializing in oden/Jpaanese pot au feu.
The shops were asked to move all into that alley when new hygiene rules forced them out of the Park!

View inside in daytime.
As for night time it will have to wait as I’m planning a special posting!

As far as it goes that is not too bad as a piece of art….

The local winged food connoisseur!

The local Shinto Shrine.

And its guardian lion.
Beware, or it will make minced meat of you for dinner!

SIESTA Love Hotel!

Day time and night time prices….

Do be careful, it is slippery. The city just does not the money to scrub it!

Hara Donuts! The best donuts in Shizuoka and most probably in Japan!

The healthiest donuts, anyway!

Whereas shinto shrines are open to everyone, why do the big money-spinning temples need to surround themselves with high fences or walls?

An ecological solar battery dolphin illumination objet!

A bit tacky though…

Talking of illuminations, that’s what Aoba park looks like at night. Cheap….

This is not a Love Hotel, but the Aoba Police Box!

A real musical fountain park at the Tokiwa end.

At night.

Lighting and waterworks synchronized until 9:00 p.m.
Not easy to take with a mobile phone.

The real Tokiwa Park is located behind the fountain.

If you go around, get off your bicycle and climb to the top of the Fountain.

You can enjoy the fullview over Tokiwa and Aoba Park Streets.

The Fountain stands in the middle of an amphitheater, a favourit place for lovers (and drunks!)

Good fashion are open late along Aoba Koen!

Just slong the Tokiwa Park and behind the fountain, discover Cia del Borgo, one of the top Italian restaurants in the Prefecture!

Have you ever tried Venison Ragu Tagliatelle?

Or black truffles risotto?

What’s next?
Probably a street parallel to Aoba Park Street!

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Doughnuts/Donuts: The best in Shizuoka at Hara Donuts!

February 4, 2010 dragonlife 8 Comments

It is the first time in my life I found something worthwhile writing about doughnuts or donuts as they are sometimes spelt!
I’m not going to rant about the dangers of fast food and sugar absorption, but these are the reasons why I have been avoiding the wares sold by the many famous chain shops (no names!) for so long!

There is only a single Hara Donuts Shop in The whole of Shizuoka Prefecture.
They originated from Kobe City where the original shop is still kiciking and alive. Apparently there are more in large citieslike Tokyo, Nagoya and Kobe. Look out for them!

The original recipe for Hara Donuts was created Mrs. Hara, the owner of a tofu store in Kobe City in 1968.
Now the interesting thing is that all ingredients, even including sugar are made or found in Japan!
Moreover soy milk is used instead of milk! Great for lactose allergics!
The sugar content is low and only real sugar cane sugar is used. No “Company Miracle Recipe Mixture”, preservatives, colorants and what’s not there!
Although it could be considered a chain company now, all donuts are made on site from scratch with the same selected ingredients!

Count a minimum of 10 regular donuts and at least 5 seasonal donuts everyday!
They also make great vegetable donuts!

I chose before taking them withmy coffee to the tiny cafe behind the oven room.
This one (sorry for the fuzzy pic!) is the straight Hara Donut.

This one is a seasonal spinach donut!
Very light but surprisingly fullfilling!
Well-balanced with just enough sugar!

The cafe at the back is tiny and can sit only a maximum of 12 guests.

It’s cozy and extremely clean.
The toilets, a bit small, are state-of the art! (all computer-activated!)

All non-smoking incidentally!
Coffee and tea, cold or hot and in different varieties are available.
Just order your donuts and drink together and a smiling staff will bring it onto your table! Pay at the counter first.
As for take-out, don’t be surprised if you fnd out queuing, it is popular!
Especially with ladies.
Being situated along Aoba Koen-Tokiwa Koen/Aoba-Tokiwa Street Park across Showa Street, it will give you the opportunity to stroll at leisure before reaching the place!

HARA DONUTS
420-0034 Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Tokiwa-cho, 2-4-5, Tokiwa-Cho Emple Court, 1F (along Aoba Koen?Tokiwa Koen)
Tel.: 054-2708653
Opening hours: 10:00~19:00 (or if donuts are sold out!)
HOMEPAGE

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Japanese Seasonal Fish: Shimaaji/Striped Horsemackerel

February 4, 2010 dragonlife Leave a comment

Shimaaji, or Striped Horsemackerel is one variety of Aji/Horsemackerel-Saurel.
Although the season is said to be in Summer, the taste varies little with the time of the year.
Striped Horsemackerel caught by anglers off the Izu Peninsula are said to be the best in Japan.
It is known under the other names of Ookami, Kose and Katsuoaji.

In English it called Striped Horsemackerel, Saurel or White Trevally.
White trevally, Pseudocaranx dentex, is a jack of the family Carangidae widespread in tropical and warm temperate areas between 40°N and 47°S, in the Atlantic, Mediterranean, Indian and Pacific Oceans. It has a deep body, and a greenish colour with metallic overtones and a dark spot above the gills. The fins are yellow.
In New Zealand, this trevally is known by the Māori as araara, and is generally confined to waters north of Cook Strait, although it sometimes reaches as far south as Otago in the summer.

It is a great fish to serve as sashimi, either in simple slices as above,

Or the whole fish as Tataki/tartare!

In Shizuoka, where the fish is usually served still alive, the bone and heads will served later deep-fired. Superb snack!

The fish is easy to manipulate to make beautig\ful maki with daikon as above!

The sushi nigiri will have photograpers on constant alert!

See what I mean?

Of course aji can be enjoyed grilled with a simple seasoning of soy sauce or ponzu!

Like most white-fleshed fish it can deep-fired in batter and breadcrumbs at home!

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Vegan Japanese Dessert: Sweet Potato, Apple & Gardenia Seeds Kinton

February 4, 2010 dragonlife Leave a comment

It is always a bit complicated for vegans and vegetarians alike to create desserts without using eggs or dairy products, unlessyou start using derivatives and susbstitues, which is not always a good idea.
The Japanese must be, without knowing it, the greatest creators of vegan desserts thanks to such techniques as found in the making of wagashi!

One variety of wagashi is called Kinton.
Kinton, or きんとんin Japanese is a Japanese tradtional dessert made with chestnuts/kuri/栗 and sugar.
Originally created in Gifu in the late 1870’s it is now found and available almost everywhere in Japan for the pleasure of all, vegans and vegetarians included.

Kuchinashi (Japanese) or Gardenia jasminoides (also known as Gardenia augusta) is a fragrant flowering evergreen tropical plant, a favorite in gardens worldwide. It originated in Asia and is most commonly found growing in Vietnam, Southern China, Taiwan and Japan.
The fruit is used as a yellow dye, which is used for clothes and food (including the Korean mung bean jelly called hwangpomuk).
Medicinal uses:
Gardenia jasminoides fructus (fruit) is used within Traditional Chinese Medicine to “drain fire” and thereby treat certain febrile conditions.

Kuchinashi no Mi/Gardenia fruit.

Kuchinashi no mi/Gardenia fruit, dried as found in Japanese stores.

I took the precaution to go through these preliminary explantaions before introducing the following dessert:

Sweet Potato, Apple & Gardenia Seeds Kinton!

INGREDIENTS:

-Apple: 1 large
-Sweet Potato/Satsuma Imo: 1 medium
-Lemon juice: 1/4
-Sugar: 1 tablespoon
-Gardenia seed/Kuchinashi no Mi: 1

RECIPE:

-Peel the sweet potato, cut in four legthwise and across again every 2 cm. Leave aside in clear cold water.

-Peel the apple, cut into 8 wedges and slice again every 5 mm. Drop in a stainless pot. Add lemon and sugar. Cover with lid and simmer on a low fire until softened.

-Cut the kuchinashi no mi/Gardenia seed in two and insert it in a small cooking bag (gauze as for bouquet garni).

-In a different pan, drop the sweet potato with ebnough water to boil them. Add teh kuchunashi no mi/gardenia seed. Boil until the sweet potato is soft enough to be easily skewered with a bamboo/wooden toothpick.

-Throw the water of the sweet potato out. Keep cooking the sweet potato to let their water evaporate.

-Add １/３ of the apple to the sweet potato and mix well.

-Serve the sweet potato topped with the cooked apple.

NOTES:

-Roast some some walnuts and top the dessert with them!

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Japanese Seasonal Fish: Suzuki/Seabass

February 3, 2010 dragonlife 6 Comments

Suzuki or seabass is a fish so popular with anglers all over the world that a lot of people forget it is also an extremely popular for sashimi and sushi in Japan.

“Simple” Sashimi Plate

Her the seabass was first seared before before being sliced for sashimi!

Like any other fish, it bears many names: Madaka, Hakura, Shiibasu.

In the Kanto (Eastern Japan) area, including Shizuoka Prefecture, it is called Seigo when under 25cm. At 3 years of age, when it has attained a length near 60cm, it is called Fukko or Suzuki.
In Kansai (Western Japan) it is called Seigo, Hane, and Suzuki.

A summer fish par excellence, it is caught mainly in Central and western Japan. But it is also caught in winter in Shizuoka waters.

The bigger and the older the fish, the better it is considered. After a decline in the 1980’s, catches have increased recently, reaching more than 9,300 tonnes after 2000.
It has been raised succesfully, thus replenishing stocks.
170.000 seabasses were raised in 1992!

Great as a sushi and appreciated for it natural taste. A little salt and lemon juice are enough.

As a sashimi it canbe declined in many ways such as carpaccio!

Raw, it can be combined as a simple and sublime salad with octopus for example.

Italian style as fritters combined with a salad!

Of course it is a very versatile fish you can appreciate cooked, simmered, or grilled, although it becomes fragile upon being cooked.

Grilled, Japanese style, with a aonori/seaweed coating!

Grilled on its skin and served French style!

And why not eat it simply as steamed fish?

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Vegan Japanese Cuisine: Bamboo Shoots Tips & Umeboshi

February 3, 2010 dragonlife 6 Comments

Here is anothe Japanese vegan recipe for bamboo, especially young new bamboo shoots which are around the corner.

This particular recipe is called 筍の姫皮の梅肉和え/Takenoko no Himekawa no Umeniku Shitae.

Himekawa are the very tip of young bamboo shoot, not the bamboo shoot which is found in tinned bamboo shoots, but actually the inner soft part of “leafy end” of the shoot. If you have the fresh bamboo shoot, you may of course add the tip of the bamboo shoot itself.

As for umeniku, it means the “flesh” (not the seed!) of a Japanese pickled plum.
Chose large plums. I fancy the honey pickled ones for their small amount of salt!

INGREDIENTS:

-Himekawa/Bamboo shoot inner tips
-Honey pickled umeboshi (low salt content)
-Cooking Japanese sake
-Soft taste soy sauce
-Dashi: (Check HERE for Vegan Recipe!)

All ingredient quantities are up to you! Do experiment!

RECIPE:

-Cut the tip of the bamboo shoot. Discard any leafy, hairy, hard or dark part.

-Cut the bamboo tips in short strips.

-Boil the bamboo tips in dashi and soy sauce just enough to soften them a bit more and season them.

-Mash the umeboshi/Japanese pickled plum with a knife.
Season the drainedbamboo tips with the umeboshi, cooking Japanese sake and a little soy sauce in a bowl and mix.

Serve in individual plates.
This can also be served as part of a salad or a side dish. Decorate with green shoots for better impression.
You may add spices, but you will have to be careful when experimenting!

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Cote Chalonnaise: Bourgogne Most Underrated Wines 2: Bouzeron

February 3, 2010 dragonlife 2 Comments

Visiting La Maison Des Vins in Chalon sur Saone with the Missus, my brother, Francois and the Master of the House, Jean-Charles Bezin.

SYNOPSIS:

I wrote this series of articles to help wine lovers to discover the wines of a region which have stayed ignored for too long and emnetly deserved to be explored!

Part 1: Introduction

BOUZERON

Click for bigger image and printing!

Bouzeron became the 5th Cote Chalonnaise Village/Commune in Saône-et-Loire departement. It is located nearest to Côte-d’Or. Created by a government decree on February 17th, 1998, this appellation has replaced the old regional appellation, Bourgogne Aligoté Bouzeron, introduce in 1979.
Production villages/communes : Bouzeron et Chassey-le-Camp.
In the Côte Chalonnaise, in northern Saône-et-Loire, it is separated from Santenay by the Dheune River valley. This slopy village lies very near Rully and Chassagne-Montrachet.

Domaine A & P de Villaine, Bouzeron.

Bouzeron and its Aligoté was spearheaded by the efforts of Aubert de Villaine, co-owner of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. Together with his wife Pamela de Villaine he owns Domaine A & P de Villaine in Bouzeron.
Mr Chanzy Daniel, grower/producer, one of the creators of the apppellation is the present president of the appellation Committee.
Syndicat viticole de l’appellation Bouzeron, 71150 BOUZERON.

The village, first called “Boserontis villa”, was given by King Charles le Chauve (The Bald) in 872 to the monks of Saint-Marcel-les-Chalon.

Bouzeron Vineyards (click on pic for bigger image)

Bouzeron are exclusively made (100%) with Aligote grapes.
Bouzeron is the sole Aligote village appelletion in the world!

Aligote grapes

Wine Character:
This white wine has a light golden hue with a pale green note which can becaome a light straw colour.
Its aroma reminds of acacia, white fowers and hazlenuts.
It is complemented with mineral scents (limestone) and lemon, its classical bouquet. An occasional memory of honey and hot croissant pleasantly peeks out.
Well-rounded on the palate, it reveals a solid body and a typical aligote grape lively character. Nuances vary with the terroirs.

Sommelier’s advice:

White: superb lively and rounded synthesis. This “gourmand” and delicately powerful wine offers its lemon notes to oysters with a beneficial channeling of the latter’s iodine strength thanks to a sustained minerality. It equally benefits tarama and crustaceans, steamed or in gratins. Its pronouced roundness emphazies veal and poultry in hite sauces. Mushrooms risotto will thank it thanks to its aromatic consistency.
Served as a first wine with beautiful gougères and appetizers: jambon persillé, mixed salads, quiches… it perfectly marrries with most chèvres/goat, beaufort, comté et cîteaux cheeses.

Service temperature: 10 to 11 °C as an aperitif, 11 to 12 °C on the table (meal).

Production:

Production surface: 44 ha
Yeraly average yield: 1 945 hl (count 130 bottles per hl)

RECOMMENDED WINES:

-Domaine CHANZY 2008
-Domaine A.& P.DEVILLAINE 2008
-Domaine P. GUILLOT 2007

La Maison Des Vins in Chalon sur Saone has done invaluable work since 1982 to make the wines of the region better known to the general public and connoisseurs alike.
It offers their own selection twice a year, choosing the best 122 wines of Cote Chalonnaise in one single Wine shop with the help of a blind tasting jury.
The chosen wines will be sold there at the producers’ prices (lower than anywhere else!) for the following 6 months!
The Restaurant de La Maison des Vins on the second floor (equiped with elevator and physically-impaired people facilities) will introduce you to the regional gastronomy served with the wines of the Cote Chalonnaise in a very quiet part of the city near the very wide Saone River.
Both are a must-visit before you venture through the hilly country in search for your unknown nectar!

La Maison Des Vins
Promenade Sainte Marie
711OO Chalon sur Saône
France
Téléphone : (33)03-85-41-64-00
Fax: (33)03-85-41-99-83
HOMEPAGE

The Restaurant de la Maison des Vins
Tel : (33)03-85-41-66-66
Fax : (33)03-85-43-82-25

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen, Warren Bobrow, Cellar Tours, Jefferson’s Table, Wheeling Gourmet, 5 Star Foodie, Frank Fariello, Oyster Culture, Comestilblog
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery
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Gastronomic Cycling in Shizuoka (4)

February 2, 2010 dragonlife 8 Comments

Ryogae Cho Street in Shizuoka City where Koya machi meets Edogawa Street, one of the main arteries crossing the city parrallel to the sea.
“Ryogae” means “Money Exchange” and was the hubbub of the city in Feudal Times. The street of the same name. although being comparatively narrow and parallel to a more important thoroughfare is nonetheless one of the main venues for diners and revellers.
It is a very long street, making it impossible to cover in one single article, so let’s proceed slowly!LOL

Like the entrance of any by-night street it looks pretty drab in day time.

Much the same atmosphere even halfwy up.

But it starts lightening up at dusk.

Like in any other revelling streets expect all kinds of giant signboards!
“Woody Cloud” is the name of a large cheap izakaya, not a heavy contrapption hanging over your head!

At night the (chgeap places) neons seem to attract all kinds of people.
Did you know that in Japanese moths if described as night butterflies stand for women working in bars?

Those big sign boards are a bit difficult to investigate at night at leisure.

But in daytime you are in for a filed day!

don’t be afraid of climbing stairs. You will be left in peace in daytime. After all the night butterflies are still sleeping!

I have a special fondness for the meaning of this sign: Tsuki no Oto/The Sound of the Moon!

The same night sushi restaurant ha another larger sign on theopposite wall. Aren’t these rabbits cute?

but some places are open for business at lunch and dinner.
Above is the advertised lunch sets.

At night the same sign is turned around to announce the dinner sets!

The same sushi restaurant advertizes the setsubun festival/the day when the Japanese throw beans to ward off bad spirits. Contrary to what you might think, these two are good spirits!

We are still at the same place, but as I have some reservations about the quality of their food, I will not divulge their name. Actually they are known for having sued a magazine who criticized them.
On the other hand they the best array of sushi plastic models in town!

I would steal these!

And those too!
But I’m not ready to compromise myself yet!LOL

Now, in the next building there are signs definitely needing some explanations!
You will not get shot in this bar! They just mean they sell the drinks by the shot!

Do you speak French? If you do, you are in trouble!

Take your pick!
I don’t really understand what “lavless” stands for, even after so many years in Shizuoka! “loveless”, maybe, but it doesn’t stand to reason…

Now, what kind of shop can call itself “Psyche”?

A flower shop! which stays open very late at night: a ot of flowers are needed for uncountable reasons in such a neighbourhood!

Shidax is the largest single karaoke shop chain company in Japan!
They even own a semi-professional baseball team!

Back to the signs.
I wonder where I left my wallet!

Now, that sign could get you into trouble in some countries!

Don’t they have mountain cats in America?

The back entrance of Loft, a favourite shop of the Missus! They sell all kinds of clothes, stationery and crafts.

Sawamura, a good if small art gallery with exhibitions regularly changing.

A major lottery booth.
It stands at the very corner of Ryogae Street and Aoba/Green Leaves Park Street.
We shall not proceed any further this time but go back slowly for more investigation as dusk is coming on us.

Although the place is a cheap izakaya chain restaurant, the sign gives you a good indication of Japanese food. Left is shabu shabu/Japanese meat fondue, right is nabe/Japanese pot au feu.

What kind of customers patronize this nonetheless well-known night bar?

People drink very late in Shizuoka City!

Don’t complain later!

Part of the street is slowly turning into a mini China Town.
I’d love to try those egg tarts!

Cuthroat prices competition among those Chinese restaurateurs!

The third one within to entrances. Working day and night!
They must be from the same family!

Real cheap!

The dusk is slowly shrouding the street.
Shinchikurin, one of the older izakayas reamaining in the street.

Now as far as I know, this sign hasn’t changed for the last 20 years! C’mon!

Well-known cheap izakaya with a benevolent guardian.

The same guardian keeps a watch on the ridiculously low prices!

Akachoshin/Traditional red lantern (they were a lot smaller not o long ago!) denoting an izakaya!

Shidax Karaoke at night. Cheap! (I don’t mean the prices!)

Still closed at dusk, but I have promised myself to investigate this takoyaki shop!

Cheap store speciliazing in “hostess dress” open till late at night. You never know, you might firnd some interesting garments!

Venturing into a dark side alley would be dodgy at best in many countries. In Shizuoka it would very often end up in discovering a little well-kept secret (gourmet secret!)!

Well, I’m afraid I will have to leave my bicycle somewhere as walking is more practical at night!

Next: Aoba Park Street!

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Vegan Japanese Cuisine: Simmered Bamboo Shoots

February 2, 2010 dragonlife 6 Comments

In Japan, and in Shizuoka in particular, the bamboo shoots season is about to come.
Fresh, they are so tender and provide a good bite sensation for people with vegan and vegetarian priorities.
Naturally you can buy them tinned all year round, but the quality just does not compare!
The Japanese are very found of new shoots grilled with their “skin” around them to later peel and eat them almost like corn ears!
By the way, did you know that bamboo is not a tree, but a grass?

Here is a simple vegan Japanese recipe. All ingredients hopefully can be found in Asian markets abroad:

Simmered Bamboo Shoots/Waka Take Ni/若竹煮!

INGREDIENTS:

-Bamboo shoots: 2 small, fresh if possible
-Wakame: as appropriate (can be boughtin Asian Markets in sachet/bags. Wash their salt off first and soften them if necessary)

-Ki no Me (see above): Ki no me is also also called Sansho or Japanese pepper, especially when fresh and in leaves. It is called Shishuan pepper when dried: as appropriate. If unavailable, use leafy greens or fresh spouts of any kind!

-Dashi: 2 cups/400 cc/ml (Check HERE for Vegan Recipe!)

-Salt: 1/2～teaspoon
-Soft taste soy sauce: 2 tablespoons
-Japanese sake: 1 tablepoon (if unavailable, experiment with white wine!)
-Mirin/sweet sake: 50 cc/ml

RECIPE:

-Peel bamboo shoots if necessary. Cut them along their lengths into 6 radial trips.

-Wash wakame in clear cold water and cut into bite size.

-Pour the dashi, soy sauce, sake, salt and mirin in a pan. Simmer the bamboo shoots and wakame in the mixture for 20 minutes on a medium fire, taking care not to overboil it.

-Serve hot or chilled with its soup decorated with some frsh ki no me or other greens

NOTES:

This is the “soft style” recipe. You may vary the amount of salt and add spices.

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SHIZUOKA GOURMET

Monthly Archives: February 2010

Japanese Seasonal Fish: Saba/Mackerel

Vegetables Facts & Tips 10: Egg Plants/Aubergines (amended & expanded)

Oden: A Shizuoka Delicacy!

Japanese Seasonal Fish: Sanma/Mackerel Pike

Daikon Couple: The Pious and The Pervert…

French Restaurants: Dinner at Pissenlit

Gastronomic Cycling in Shizuoka (5)

Doughnuts/Donuts: The best in Shizuoka at Hara Donuts!

Japanese Seasonal Fish: Shimaaji/Striped Horsemackerel

Vegan Japanese Dessert: Sweet Potato, Apple & Gardenia Seeds Kinton

Japanese Seasonal Fish: Suzuki/Seabass

Vegan Japanese Cuisine: Bamboo Shoots Tips & Umeboshi

Cote Chalonnaise: Bourgogne Most Underrated Wines 2: Bouzeron

Gastronomic Cycling in Shizuoka (4)

Vegan Japanese Cuisine: Simmered Bamboo Shoots