Tag Archives: Gastronomy

石鰈, 美食, 観光, 魚, 魚海の幸, Fish, Flatfish, Flounder, Gastronomes, Gastronomy, Japan, Japanese Gastronomy, Shizuoka, Shizuoka Cuisine, Stone Flounder, Tourism

Japanese Fish Species 5: Stone Flounder-Ishigarei-石鰈

April 20, 2012 dragonlife 2 Comments

Ishigarei, イシガレイ、石鰈 in Japanese, is another popular flatfish/flounder in this country. For the specialists the Englidh name is Stone flounder, and its Latin name Kareus bicoloratus. Interestingly enough these fishes are commonly called flatfishes in English, wheeras the Jaapnese write them as “leaf Fishes”!

In Japan, depending upon the region it will be called other names, such as Ishimochi, Ishimochigarei or Shirogarei.
Their season is mainly in Summer in Hokkaido and Eastern Japan, although they might appear a lot earlier in Shizuoka.

Ishigarei is considered the best of all flounders in this country. People generally avoid to catch them during the female egg incubation, but the same egg-bearing fish are a delicacy in Tokyo.

Always choose “lively” specimens when buying them as the taste will soon deteriorate if the fish is not dressed quickly first.
If an angler-friend of yours calls on the phone with one of them, don’t discuus and buy the fish!

Stone flounders make for such superlative sashimi that it becomes a bit of a waste to consume it in another way.

But who would pass such a Japanese-style carpaccio?

Or an Italian Carpaccio?

Sushi lovers will appreciate it as a sushi nigiri!

A truly extravagant sushi nigiri display. Eat it quickly!

Alright, you were not lucky enough to get it absolutely fresh.
In this case simmer it the Japanese way as Ishigarei Ni (Ni stands for simmer) with soy sauce, sake, mirin and ginger!

Or do it the Italian way with olive oil and dry tomatoes!

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES

Green Tea Club by Satoshi Nihonyanagi in Shizuoka!, Mind Some by Tina in Taiwan, Le Manger by Camille Oger (French), The Indian Tourist, Masala Herb by Helene Dsouza in Goa, India, Mummy I Can Cook! by Shu Han in London, Pierre.Cuisine, Francescannotwrite, My White Kitchen, 47 Japanese Farms Through The Eyes of Its Rural Communities, Foodhoe, Chucks Eats, Things that Fizz & Stuff, Five Euro Food by Charles,Red Shallot Kitchen by Priscilla,With a Glass, Nami | Just One Cookbook, Peach Farm Studio, Clumsyfingers by Xethia, PepperBento,Adventures in Bento Making, American Bent, Beanbento, Bento No, Bento Wo Tsukurimashou, Cooking Cute, Eula, Hapabento , Happy Bento, Jacki’s Bento Blog, Kitchen Cow, Leggo My Obento, Le Petit Journal Bento & CO (French), Lunch In A Box,
Susan at Arkonlite, Vegan Lunch Box; Tokyo Tom Baker, Daily Food Porn/Osaka, Only Nature Food Porn, Happy Little Bento, The Herbed Kitchen, J-Mama’s Kitchen, Cook, Eat, Play, Repeat, Bento Lunch Blog (German), Adventures In Bento, Anna The Red’s Bento Factory, Cooking Cute, Timeless Gourmet, Bento Bug, Ideal Meal, Bentosaurus, Mr. Foodie (London/UK), Ohayo Bento,

Must-see tasting websites:

-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen, Warren Bobrow, Cellar Tours, Ancient Fire Wines Blog
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

Bourgogne Gatsronomy, 美食, 鹿肉, 農業, French Cuisine, French gastronomy, Gastronomes, Gastronomy, Japan, Japanese Gastronomy, Shizuoka, Shizuoka agricultural products, Shizuoka Cuisine, Venison, Wine Stew

French Recipe: Okabe Venison Bourgogne Wine Stew and Penne!

April 20, 2012 dragonlife 4 Comments

My plate!

What with wild deer making themselves a real nuisance in Shizuoka Prefecture (and almost all over Japan) succulent meat is readily avalaible if you know when, where and whom to ask!
The other day my good friend Yasushi Imaizumi/今泉康さん, owner of IMAIZUMI Fashion Company and a well-known local gastronome, gave me a good 2 kg of venison from a deer that had been culled by licensed hunters in Okabe, Fuijeda City!

Being a native of Bourgogne, France, I knew the simple way to prepare it: Wine Stew/Bourguignon as for beef!
Although the meat was basically rump whereas meat on the bone would have been more proper, I still cooked it in the above manner.
This was a source of a bone of contention with the Dragon as I was for the analog recipe whereas she cooks such dishes through pressure cooking (autocuiseur/圧力鍋 !
If you are for the pressure cooker, the process is the same though the cooking will take only a few minutes but you still will need to strain and reduce the sauce.
Now, i did it the long ang and traditonal way:
-I cut the meat (about 2~3kg of it) into large chunks and marinated them overnight with a cup of whisky (you can try cognac or even vodka!), a bit of salt, plenty of pepper, bay leaves, a little sage and plenty of thyme powder (whole would have been best!).
-The next day, I took the meat out of its marinade and drained it. Some people wipe the marinade off but I don’t. The beauty of the Bourguignonne recipe is that it is wide open to priorities!
I didn’t discard the marinade!
-I cut a large carrot into big chunks, peeled a whole garlic and separated the cloves. I did not cut the latter. I peeled a large hard fresh onion. Some people would cut the onion into quarters but I wanted to keep it for the dish whereas quartered onion would have almost melted.
-I first fried cubes of baco in a little olive oil in a learge pan.
-I then fried the venison (with the bacon) all over in plenty more olive oil over a hot fire. Once the meat had completely changed color I dropped the carrot in, added some flour and cooked until the flour became a foxy color.
-I then reduced the fire to very low. I added the garlic, some tomato ketchup, the whole marinade and 2 thirds of a bottle of strong red wine (it was Italian as I didn’t have a French one!). People in Corsica also add a good portion of fresh home-made pistou/pesto, bvut I didn’t have the time or will to prepare it although I love it.
-I mixed the whole roughly and placed the onion in the middle punctured with a couple of whole cloves, put the lid on and cooked the whole on a very little fire for over 2 hours.
=I then took the venison, bacon and onion carefully out and drained the sauce.
I discarded the vegetables and reduced the sauce to a good half.
While it was reducing I cut the venison into single-bite chunks.
Once the sauce had been properly reduced I asted it and seasoned a little more and I put the venison and bacon back into the sauce and cooked it on a low fire while I was preparing some penne in plenty of salted water in which I had poured some olive oil.
I dropped the penne inside two large plates, placed plenty of venison in the middle, poure enough sauce (there was olenty left for the next two days!). On top of it all I placed the hot and (only then!) quartered onion for better effect and enjoyment. I put a finaltouch by sprinkling plenty of chopped fresh parsley all over it.

Pretty simple and open to variations!

The Dragon’s plate!

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES

Must-see tasting websites:

美食, 観光, 魚, 魚海の幸, Fish, Flatfish, Flounder, Food, Gastronomes, Gastronomy, Halibut, Japan, Japanese Gastronomy, Shizuoka, Shizuoka Cuisine, Sole, Tourism, 平目

Japanese Fish Species 4: Sole-Olive Flounder-Bastard Halibut-Tonguefish-Hirame-平目

April 20, 2012 dragonlife 4 Comments

Hirame/平目

“Hirame” could be translated in many ways depending of your country of origin: Flat Fish, Sole, Ｔurbot (although the latter should define “karei”) and what else. There are many varieties, wild or human-raised. In Japanese, the names are numerous: Hirame, Shitabirame, Ooguchikarei, Oyanirami, etc.

Actually, they can be divided into two main groups:

1)The Olive flounder or Bastard halibut (Paralichthys olivaceus; Japanese: ヒラメ/平目) is a species of large-tooth flounder native to the north-western Pacific Ocean.
It is often referred to as the Japanese flatfish or Korea(n) flatfish (광어) when mentioned in the context of those countries.
It is the most common flatfish species raised in aquaculture in Korea. They are raised in Japan and China as well.

Shitabirame/舌平目

2) Tonguefishes (shitabirame/舌平目in Japanese) are a family, Cynoglossidae, of flatfishes. They are distinguished by the presence of a long hook on the snout overhanging the mouth, and the absence of pectoral fins. Their eyes are both on the left side of their body, which also lacks a pelvic fin.

The best season is Autumn to Winter. They are still available until Spring in Shizuoka Prefecture. Wild ones come from Hokkaido and Aomori. Human-raised ones mainly hail from Oita, Ehime, Mie, and Kagoshima Prefectures.

Hirame Sashimi

The domestic wild catch is around 7,600 tonnes a year, while farmed fish amounts to around 7,100 tonnes a year. A recent increase has been observed in recent years, though. A lot are imported from Korea through Fukuoka and Shimoseki.
They are found in tropical and subtropical oceans, mainly in shallow waters and estuaries, though a few species are found in deep sea floors, and a few in rivers.

Hirame can be enjoyed in many ways:
As sashimi, cut in various thickness, according to the chef’s preference and presented artfully.

It can be enjoyed cut in small dices, as tartare, especially shitabirame/tonguefish with tomato and strawberry!

Of course, hiirame is great as sushi nigiri with all kinds of seasoning. I prefer it just seasoned with a little lemon juice or yuzu (if available) and salt (preferably “snow salt” from Okinawa!

The Japanese have a fondness for “engawa”, that is the frilled border along the fillets which are usually thrown away in other countries. The texture is different, almost crunchy.

Hirame is great marinated with konbu/seaweed as konbujime/seaweed marinated.

The same konbujime hirame can be served as oshizushi/pressed sushi topped with more seaweed!

An interesting oshizusshi combination is hirame topped with kabu/turnip and seasoned with yuzu juice and zest!

It is also very popular dried as himono/干物, especially shitabirame/tonguefish.

Naturally the Japanese all kinds of hirame cooked in the French way in a simple and succulent manner as above,

or as a beautiful gratin!

Last, but not least, how about grilled hirame with uni/sea urchin sauce?

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES

Must-see tasting websites:

美食, 酒, 観光, 農業, Gastronomes, Gastronomy, Japan, Japanese Gastronomy, sake, Sake Brewery, Shizuoka, Shizuoka agricultural products, Tourism

Shizuoka Sake Tasting: Takashima Brewery-Hakuin Masamune-Junmai Daiginjyo Yamahai

April 19, 2012 dragonlife 2 Comments

Yamahai is a traditional way of making sake which leaves a lot to nature.
It is difficult to master and most breweries avoid even mentioning the name!

But Takashima Brewery in Numazu City are extremely proud of their Yamahai and do not hesitate to advertise it clearly for all to see on their labels!

And making a top-premium Junmai Daiginjyo out of a Yamahai is not only extravagant, it is also a true tour de force!
One ought to enjoy such nectar slowly out of an high quality earthenware sake cup!

Takashima Brewery-Hakuin Masamune-Junmai Daiginjyo Yamahai-Genshu

Rice: Komachi
Milled down to: 45%
Alcohol: 16~17 degrees (genshu/no pure water added)
Yeast: Shizuoka NEW-5
Dryness: + 4
Acidity: 1.5
Bottled in February 2012

Clarity: Very clear
Color: Faint golden hue
Aroma: Assertive and fruity. Bananas, oranges
Body: Fluid and a little liquorish
Taste: Fruity attack, sweetish at first but turning quickly dry.
Strong junmai petillant.
Banana backed by dark chocolate and sweet nuts with a late appearance from oranges.
Lingers for a while warming the back of the palate and throat.
Complex. Dark chocolate asserting itself with the second sip with further attack from junmai petillant and dry almonds.
So pleasant and easy to drink.
Gets drier with food with very strong junmai petillant and oranges.

Comment: A discovery!
To turn a Yamahai in such a superlative sake is simply a mark of the extraordinary skills of Takashima Brewery!
Can be indifferently enjoyed on its own or with food, a feat not easily done with Junmai Daiginjyo!
Will definitely rate as one of best 5 sakes drunk in 2012 even by April!

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES

Must-see tasting websites:

Buri, 美食, 観光, 魚, 魚海の幸, 鰤, Fish, Food, Gastronomes, Gastronomy, Japan, Japanese Gastronomy, Shizuoka, Shizuoka Cuisine, Tourism, Yellowtail

Japanese Fish Species 3: Yellowtail-Buri-鰤

April 19, 2012 dragonlife Leave a comment

BURI-1

Buri/鰤 or Yellowtail, as Hiramasa or young Yellowtail is caught in Summer and Buri/Mature Yellowtail is caught in Winter.

How do you recognize them apart?

BURI-AGO
Buri has a “square chin” as they say in Japanese. Look at the back extremity of the mouth,

BURI-HIRAMASA-AGO
whereas it is more rounded for the hiramasa.

In Japan they are caught south of Hokkaido Island.
They come under many names: Wakashi, Inada, Warasa, Wakana, Hamachi and Mejiro.

Buri/Yellowyail is most popular when caught in rising waters in Winter when called Kan Buri/寒鰤 or “Cold Yellowtail”.

BURI-SASHIMI

Buri sashimi after light grill/Aburi/炙り

Young Yellowtails are best eaten as sahimi or

BURI-SUSHI-2

Buri Sushi

or as sushi as they are leaner then.

Older buri, containing a lot of fat, are better eaten cooked as

BURI-TERIYAKI

Buri Teriyaki,

BURI-ARA

Buri Ara with the whole head, or

BURI-MOPPONZU

Buri Mopponzu, including innards, especially liver and heart.

In the West of Japan, a New Year Meal cannot be conceived without buri!

Natural Buri catch accounts for 70,000~80,000 tonnes, while human-raised buri accounts for over 130,000 tonnes every year.
Imported buri accounts for less than 3,000 tonnes.

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES

Must-see tasting websites:

Bento, 美食, Gastronomes, Gastronomy, Japan, Japanese Gastronomy, Shizuoka, Shizuoka agricultural products, Shizuoka Cuisine, 弁当

Today’s Bento/Lunch Box (12/17): Wasabi Musubi and Kabocha Mimosa Egg Bento!

April 18, 2012 dragonlife 10 Comments

Some of my work brings me in close contact with local farmers and it certainly has its perks as you will discover in this particular bento!

First, the “wasabi musubi”!
But before explaining that particular bit let me say that the “decoration” consists of chikuwa/steamed fish paste roll, a variety of kamaboko you can buy anywhere and that the Missus filled with fresh cucumber and boiled broccoli flowers.

The wasabi leaves and stems were given to me by Mr. Mochizuki who cultivates wasabi in Utogi, its birthplace!
The Missus pickled them separately, with konbu seaweed added to the leaves.
She made musubi balls with freshly steamed rice mixed with pickled wasabi stems and enveloped them in pickled wasabi leaves!
I very much doubt you can do that outside Shizuoka Prefecture!

The side box contained two more products I obtained from local farmers!

The egg mimosa was made by mixing the boiled egg yolk with boiled kabocha from Mr. Oda’s Farm in Yaizu City!
The Missus added some mini tomatoes, salad beans and lettuce to complete the salad!

The Missus then introduced ton toro pork/very soft pork she cooked together with fresh shiitake grown organically by Mr. Nanjyo in Do, near Utogi. She used the recipe for tebasaki adding coca cola and chili pepper for a very zippy concoction! I know more but the Missus said this was how far I could reveal her secrets!

A very unusual and tasty bento!

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES

Must-see tasting websites:

Bora, 美食, 観光, 魚, 魚海の幸, 鯔, Fish, Food, Gastronomes, Gastronomy, Mullet, Recipes, sashimi, Shizuoka, Shizuoka Cuisine, sushi, Tourism

Japanese Fish Species 2: Mullet-Bora-鯔

April 18, 2012 dragonlife 2 Comments

There are at least 12 recognized kinds of mullet being caught all over the world.
The flathead mullet in particular is an important food fish for many around the world, and can be both fished and farmed. The roe of this mullet is salted, dried, and compressed to make a specialty food across the world, such as Korean myeongran jeot, Japanese karasumi, Italian botargo, and Egyptian batarekh . In Egypt, the fish itself is salted, dried, and pickled to make feseekh.

Flathead Mullet, Mugil Cephalus in Latin, or Bora/鯔/鰡 in Japanese, will reach length of over 80 cm in Japan, although the average length will more around 50 cm.

It is caught south of Hokkaido near river mouths or in bays receiving lots of river waters.
Like any othe fish, it will be called other names depending upon the region: Isegoi (Western Japan), Itanebora (Ehime Prefecture), Mabora (Hiroshima Prefecture), Tsukura (Okinawa), Kuchime, Mejiro, Hebuna, Haku, Makuchi, Kurome, or Merome.

It is a versatile fish:

Served raw as sashimi in Japanese Cuisine or,

as carpaccio in Italian style.

It is more unusual as sushi nigiri (front two) and will probably be found as such only locally.

To answer a query from a friend, it is more encountered cooked:
Deep-fried and served with a soy-based sauce is common to many asian countries.

Deep-fried before being served with a sweet and sour sauce,

or the same again with tofu is popular in Taiwan (and in Japan!).

First steamed and then served with a sauce made with sweet pickled plum and miso is supposed to be of Chinese origin, but can be found again in many Asians countries.

But for all these recipes, the most valuable (and very expensive at that!) is the roe of the female mullets!

It is served as it is, extravagantly in Japanese or Italian cuisine sashimi or carpaccio.

The combinations are infinite!

An extravagant salad of Japanese and Italian inspiration!

Grated over an extravagant pasta dish!

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES

Must-see tasting websites:

Beef, 美食, 観光, 農業, Gastronomes, Gastronomy, Japan, Japanese Gastronomy, Shizuoka, Shizuoka agricultural products, Tourism, Wagyu, 和牛

Fuji Okamura Ranch in Fujinomiya City.Fuji. Beef by Chiyoji Okamura!

April 17, 2012 dragonlife 4 Comments

Ever solid Chiyoji Okamura!

Last Friday after our superb lunch at Restaurant Bio-S, the owner Kazuhiro Matsuki/松木一浩 kindly drove me and my journalists friends, Camille Oger and Julien Morelo, through forests at the foot of Mount Fuji to Okamura Ranch.
Okamura Ranch is one of the three beef producers established at the foot of Mount Fuji (there are 13 in all the Prefecture).

View of Mount Fuji from Okamura Ranch!

Chiyoji Okamura/岡村千代次さん was born in Shiga Prefecture in 1955.
The fifth child of a large family there was little left for him back home.
Having graduated from Tokyo Agricultural University in 1978 he tried his hand at agriculture before coming to Fujinomiya City in 1990 to establish a beef producing ranch with 30 heads of cattle. He is now looking after 300+ heads throughout a year.

The meadows reserved to pregnant cows.

He basically breeds his own cows (there is not a single bull on the premises) from 2-months old calves bought from a calf breeder or breeds his own calves after having artificially inseminated his cows.
If a male is born he is castrated while females will be later inseminated.

Very healthy but a bit shy pregnant cows.

The cows are culled for meat after 24 months, a short time compared to meat cattle in Europe.
The abattoirs are located so far from the ranch that the cows never realize their fate and feel very little stress.
Interestingly enough, Mr. Okamura does not produce calves for meat.

A smiling cow!

The beef breed in Okamura Ranch is originally a hybrid of meat-producing cattle and milk-producing cattle.
The BSE problem a few years ago convinced him that the traceability of his meat was of the utmost importance.
He will always meet personally his clients, be they traders or restaurants, before he agrees to sell his meat to them.

In spite of the daily care (no holidays there) vital for the good health of his cows, Mr. Okamura and his wife seem happy enough to spend all their time on the ranch and in their enormous (by Japanese standards) house where they regularly hold bbq’s. After all the two of them look after the cows and have to assume all the roles of cattle farmers and veterinarians!

The cow sheds and the farm were all rebuilt in 2003 and Mr. Okamura’s Fujisan Beef was officially recogniszed as an independent beef brand by the Shizuoka Prefecture Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry in 2006!

Each calf lives in its own shed for maximum comfort and well-being.

The sheds are a model of cleanliness!
What with Mount Fuji and the surrounding nature, there is no pollution and the water and natural grass are of superlative quality.
As for fodder Mr. Okamura imports it all from America through a very strictly regulated route.
The used straw and droppings are recycled as natural fertilizer for neighboring farmers.

All these animals need a lot of feed, mainly consisting of cereals including corn and barley!
Mr. Okamura’s own blend of feed devised trough his years of experience and experimenting make the difference!

The sheds are regularly cleaned and provided with fresh straw for maximum hygiene.
Mrs. Okumura takes charge of feeding the calves twice a day and of all the accounts of their business while Mr. Okamura takes care of all the rest.
Quite a few students ask to work with them as interns but only a few are accepted after careful screening.

A very hungry calf!

This is all extremely hard work and I very much doubt that the Okamuras will ever get fat. They are actually extremely fit and smiling and passionate in spite of their shyness.
The result?

Superlative meat difficult to surpass!
it was interesting to note, and Mr. Matsuki concurred, that Mr. Okamura produces an extremely tender red beef without the use of fat as found in other famed beef, a feat that will ask a lot to equal indeed!

Fujisan Okamura Ranch
418-0102 Fujinomiya Shi, Hitoana, 137-318
Tel.: 0544-52-3668
Fax: 0544-52-3668
E-mail: oka5@alpha.ocn.ne.jp

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美食, 野菜, 野菜亭, 観光, 農業, Gastronomes, Gastronomy, Health, Japan, Japanese Gastronomy, Shizuoka, Shizuoka agricultural products, Shizuoka Cuisine, Tourism, Vegan, Vegetarian cuisine

Vegan Sashimi at Yasaitei in Shizuoka City (April 2012)!

April 17, 2012 dragonlife Leave a comment

Service: Excellent and very friendly
Facilities: Very clean, Beautiful washroom
Prices: reasonable
Specialties: Vegan and vegetarian Cuisine, Izakaya gastronomy, local products, oden. Good list of sake, shochu. Wines also available.

With the warm days coming quickly one is always in search of refreshing food and drinks.
Fortunately in Shizuoka City this is not a problem at all with the abundance of vegetables!

Yasaitei, like many izakayas in Japan, puts salt in front of their entrance to ward off evil spirits.
They even asked a oni/goblin to look after them!

A single look at the counter will let you know you have entered vegan and vegetarian heaven although the food is designed for all tastes and priorities!

Although you might have to check the dashi, the first snack coming with my shochu (shochu is vegan by the way!)! People with special priorities will appreciate!

Thick boiled wakame seaweed and new bamboo shoots o-hitashi/japanese-style appetizer!

The main attraction of the day: Vegan Sashimi Plate conceived with local vegetables!

The dressing is made of sesame oil, salt and red miso paste only, so no problems!
Now what did the plate consist of?

“Cindy” orange tomatoes (very sweet) and ice plant.

Small red radish and red pimento.

Juicy and mild daikon on shiso leaves.

Crunchy and juicy cucumber and mini tomatoes.

And finally chopped red onion giving support!
So tasty and healthy!

To be followed…

YASAITEI
Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Tokiwa-Cho, 1-6-2 Green Heights Wamon 1-C
Tel.: 054-2543277
Business hours: 17:30~22:00
Closed on Sundays
Reservations highly recommended
Seating: 6 at counter + 14 at tables
Set Courses: 3,000, 4,000, 5,000 yen
Individual orders (carte) welcome
Parties welcome
HOMEPAGE (Japanese)
Smoking allowed

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES

Must-see tasting websites:

美食, 観光, 魚, 魚海の幸, Fish, Gastronomes, Gastronomy, Japan, Japanese Gastronomy, Restaurants, sashimi, seafood, Shizuoka, Shizuoka City, sushi, Tourism

Sushi Design by Chef Kenta Birukawa at Sushi Ko in Shizuoka City!

April 17, 2012 dragonlife 4 Comments

Picture: Camille Oger

Service: Pro and very friendly
Facilities: Very clean. Excellent toilets
Prices: Reasonable
Strong points: Great variety of seafood from Shizuoka Prefecture and the rest of Japan. Great list of sake

The other day I had the pleasure to introduce my new friends Camille Oger and Julien Morelo to my favorite sushi restaurant, namely Sushi Ko in Aoba Park Street in Shizuoka City to show them what their Chef, Mr. Kenta Birukawa/尾留川健太さん was able of! Mind you, Mr. Birukawa is not anybody as he was elected one of the best 10 sushi designers in all Japan by his own peers last year!
Actually I was lucky to have Camille around as she is a professional journalist and her photos were of an inestimable help in the end!

Picture: Camille Oger

Chef Mirukawa is especially celebrated for his “Sushi Millefeuille”!
I asked him to devise one for us and he came with “Roses Millefeuille” made of sushi rice, cucumber, akami (tuna), avocado, sushi rice, katsuo bushi, shiso, the whole topped with three roses made of akami tuna, salmon and kampachi/amberjack!

Picture: Camille Oger

Actually, one of our two lady neighbors was celebrating her birthday! Upon seeing our Millefeuille she asked Chef Birukawa to design one as a Birthday Millefeuille!
Chef Mirukawa was only too glad to oblige!

Here is another sample of Chef Birukawa’s Millefeuille!

Picture: Camille Oger

Next we asked Chef Birukawa to prepare us a “Rainbow Roll”!
Camille did a great work taking pictures of every step!
The above picture is the first step: preparing the ingredients.

Picture: Camille Oger

Second step!

Picture: Camille Oger

Rolling the whole carefully…

Picture:Camille Oger

Rolling…

Picture: Camille Oger

Rolling…

Picture: Camille Oger

Almost there!

Picture: Camille Oger

A lot of care at the end…

Picture: Camille Oger

Rolled!
Next the cutting!

Picture: Camille Oger

Et voila!

It was not all millefeuilles and rolls. We also had a beautiful kawahagi o tsukuri/filefish sashimi plate!

You roll the thin slices of fish around a few pieces of thin leek and dip the whole in a sauce made with the raw liver of the fish!

Picture: Camille Oger

Chef Birukawa had kept a few pieces apart to make this beautiful filefish nigiri with its liver on top!

And we had its deep-fried cheeks later!

We had more sashimi including the hirame/sole above!

And also this beautiful lightly seared kinmedai/golden eyes seabream!

Special service: daikon and botarga/mullet roe/karasumi sandwich!

Among the many nigiri, I had my friends discover magurozuke/marinated tuna!

A Shizuoka specialty: Shirasu/sardine whiting!
Raw and fresh it is very difficult to eat outside Shizuoka Prefecture!

As a gunkan/mothership nigiri with chopped leeks and grated ginger!

Or as a mini nigiri!

To be continued…

SUSHI KO
420-0032 Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Ryogae-cho, 2-3-1 (Aoba Park Street)
Tel.: 054-251-9701
Business Hours： 17:00~25:00. 17:00~23:00 （Sundays）
Closed on Wednesdays
Reservations recommended
Credit cards OK
HOMEPAGE (in Japanese)
Smoking allowed. Private room can be arranged for non-smoking (4 people)

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美食, 観光, 魚, 魚海の幸, Fat Greening, Fish, Food, Gastronomes, Gastronomy, Japan, Japanese Gastronomy, Shizuoka, Shizuoka Cuisine, Tourism

Japanese Fish Species 1: Fat Greening-Ainame-鮎魚女

April 16, 2012 dragonlife Leave a comment

Ainame/鮎魚女/Hexagrammos otakii or Fat Greening is a truly Japanese seasonal fish, which has become a rarity as it lives only around the Japanese archipelago along rocky shores in water comparatively high in salt (some are also found around the Korean Peninsula).
Luckily enough it has been raised successfully in the Western part of Shizuoka Prefecture for the last few years.
Its rarity is caused by its popularity with anglers and its very fine taste.
A cousin of the rock fish, it is called many other names such as Aburako, Aburame and when young, Kujime.
The best season is in May and June. As it lay eggs in Winter, the taste loses its appeal.

It is a real morsel to be enjoyed in many ways:

As sashimi, even its skin is edible!

It makes for superb sushi nigiri!

Like any great white-fleshed fish, you must sample it in karaage/deep-fried!

The same karaage can be then marinated!

Another great way to enjoy it is to cook it as Japanese nimono, either slowly simmered or steamed and served with a soy sauce, sake and mirin sauce!

Of course it makes for a supreme delicacy “poele” in French or Italian gastronomy!

RECOMMENDED RELATED WEBSITES

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美食, Dried fish, 観光, 魚, 魚海の幸, Gastronomes, Gastronomy, Himono, Japan, Japanese Gastronomy, Shizuoka, Shizuoka Cuisine, Tourism, 干物

Japanese Gastronomy: Himono-Dried Fish-干物-Recipe

April 15, 2012 dragonlife 2 Comments

How many people outside Shizuoka Prefecture know that half (yes, half!) of all dried fish are caught and processed in our Prefecture, notably along the shores of the Izu Peninsula?
When will I convince everyone that Shizuoka Prefecture is THE true gastronomic region of Japan? LOL
To those guys living in Tokyo, may I remind them that Mount Fuji, Izu Peninsula and wasabi are all in Shizuoka Prefecture? Please someone stop me!

Houbou/竹麦魚、魴鮄/Bluefin Robbin (Red Gurnard) Himono in Mochimune, Shizuoka City.

Actually if you walk around the fishing cities of Numazu City, Yaizu City, Omaezaki City, Shimoda City, Shimizu & Yui & Mochimune in Shizuoka City you will discover all varieties of fish drying in front of shops or homes!

Saba/鯖/mackerel in Mochimune drying across the street!

Tai/鯛/Seabream form Mochimune. A bit extravagant for a dried fish.

Aji/鯵/Horse Mackerel from the Suruga Bay. You can eat them all. Great source of calcium!

BASIC RECIPE

I chose a fish called “isaki” or “Chicken Grunt” (who came up with that English name?) that is quite common on our shores.
The recipe naturally applies to loads of fish!

CLEANING THE FISH:

Using a strong short sharp knife (the Japanese use the same knife to cut and gut medium size fish), first get rid of the scales as much as possible.
Wash once under running clear cold water.
Cut along the back (not the belly! very important) from the tail to the head as shown on above picture deeply enough to reach the main bone.

Once the knife has cut all along the back and reached the head, cut the head in half along the same cutting line.
The head of a isaki being small it is quite easy. It might require some strength for bigger head fish like seabreams. Call the MOTH then! (not the moths, the “Man”! LOL).

Open the fish and continue cutting in half all the way through.

Take out innards carefully so as not having them getting in contact with the flesh!
Depending upon the season, you might be lucky to get male sperm sacks (shirako). Don’t throw that away. They are great simmered with soy sauce, mirin/sweet sake, japanese sake and chili pepper! (see pic below).

Open the fish and clean it under running clear cold water.
Take water off with some kitchen paper or a clean piece of cloth.
Sprinkle with salt and dry outside under the sun until it has reached a nice aspect. You could also smoke it.
It can be preserved insde an airtight plastic bag and frozen, although eaten quickly it will taste so much better!

The Japanese grill their himono/dried fish pasted with a little soy sauce or tare. Beautiful with beer, Good Beer and Country Boys!

Great also grilled with a little salt!

If grilled with salt don’t forget the freshly grated daikon (and lemon juice, and soy sauce…)

The male sperm sacs (shirako) make for a great snack with your beer or sake once simmered in soy sauce, mirin/sweet sake and Japanese sake (and a little chili pepper)!

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Cuttle Fish, 烏賊, 美食, 観光, 魚海の幸, Gastronomes, Gastronomy, Japan, Japanese Gastronomy, Shizuoka, Shizuoka Cuisine, Tourism

Japanese Cuttlefish/Squid Species 6: “Japanese lesser” Varieties

April 15, 2012 dragonlife 4 Comments

IKA-MONSTER
Inedible Lesser Variety!: Giant Squid

By “Japanese lesser” I mean species both more difficult to find on markets, more local and not as appreciated as the former five varieties.
Howeve these should not be looked over as they are still good enough for the finnicky Japanese and appreciated as rarities!

I kept the pictures small as this would be just too big a report!

BOZU IKA

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EZOHARI IKA

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HAKUTENKOU IKA

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HIMEKOU IKA

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KAMINARI IKA

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KO IKA

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SHINDO IKA

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SHIRIYAKE IKA

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SODE IKA

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SUJI IKA

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USUBENI IKA

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If you have any questions, don’t hesitate!

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French Gastronomy: Local products at Restaurant Bio-S in Fujinomiya City!

April 14, 2012 dragonlife 2 Comments

Service: Professional, welcoming, very attentive and smiling. Great explanations.
Facilities & Equipment: Extremely clean. Superb separate washrooms.
Prices: Reasonable considering the extravagant quality.
Strong points: Mainly local products including wild vegetables and meat. Vegetables mainly organic and grown by the staff. Menu changing for the most part every two weeks.

MAP (Japanese)

It has been a long time I have wished to visit Restaurant Bio-S in Fujinomiya City at the foot of Mount Fuji although it has been opened only 3 years!

Even in overcast weather it is such a pleasure to work or eat under the benign protection of Mount Fuji!

I finally had the occasion yesterday as I accompanied two new friends of mine, Camille Oger and Julien Morello from Antibes, France, and both journalists on a grand tour of Japan, here above standing on both sides of Mr. Kazuhiro Matsuki/松木一浩, the founder and owner of Bio Farm Matsuki, Restaurant Bio-S, Bio-Deli in Fujinomiya City and Comptoir de Bio-S in Shizuoka City!

Menu posted outside as in France.
Kazuhiro Matsuki, originally from Nagasaki, Kyushu Island, worked for two years (he speaks great French!) at Hotel Nikko, Paris, before he moved to Shizuoka Prefecture (his wife’s family lives in Shizuoka City) in Fujinomiya City to start the cultivation of organic vegetables in 2000. In 2009 he opened Restaurant Bio-s to promote organic cuisine.

Mr. Kazuhiro Matsuki and his young talented chef (also a hunter!) Mr. Yoshinori Kawasaki/川崎芳範 (born in Hyogo Prefecture!)!

The entrance!

A French 2CV Citroen!

With a plate registered in Fujisan/富士山/Mount Fuji!

Bio Farm organic vegetables on sale in the entrance hall!

Mr. Matsuki is famous all over the country, what with the many books he wrote on organic farming and cuisine!

Plenty of explanations!

The table the three of us sat at for a great degustation lunch!

Champagne!
Offered by Mr. Matsuki who wanted to thank us for coming all the way!

Of course vegetables at a premium!
Now, what did we savor?

This sage, mint and rosemary are organic and for decoration, but you are encouraged to taste them!

A finger herb croissant!

Really cute!

The legs of ham are imported from Spain but matured on site!

Mr. Matsuki cut ours in person!

Raw ham on organic greens salad!

From another angle!

Chicken and mushrooms terrine! I did require a lot of patience to take the pictures before I could jump on it!

The chicken comes from Mr. Aoki’s Farm and the mushrooms from Mr. Hasegawa’s Farm, both in Fuji City!

Home-baked walnut bread!

The first fish dish: Iwana/岩魚/Char/Charr/Salvelinus with cress sauce!

The char is bred by Mr. Iwamoto in Fujinomiya City and was lightly smoked before being sauteed/baked!

All the cress was picked in the wild along streams flowing down Mount Fuji!

The second fish dish: Bass with Japanese echalottes!

The bass was caught in Suruga Bay, Shizuoka Prefecture!

The Japanese echalottes baked to a crisp are grown organically in Bio Farm Matsuki!

Before the meat dish we enjoyed a succulent organic carrot potage!

The meat dish: Fujisan Wagyu Beef from Mr. Okamura’s Ranch and organic vegetables from Bio Farm Matsuki!

From another angle for a better view of the vegetables!

They included carrot, Red Moon potato, Broccolini, bamboo shoot, turnip, and daikon!

The piece de resistance: Fujisan Wagyu Beef which was awarded its title as Product of Shizuoka Prefecture in 2006!
No need to go to Kobe! LOL

Before tackling the dessert we refreshed ourselves with this beautiful Suruga Elegant Orange Soup!

We were first shown the main ingredients of the four desserts!

Suruga Elegant Orange Chilled Soup and Mousse topped with Hazelnut Sorbet and dark chocolate chips!

Organic Carrot Creme Brulee topped with Cardamon Sorbet!

Blanc-manger made with Fujinishiki Brewery (Fujinomoiya City) premium daiginjyo sake white lees/sakekasu/酒粕 and kiwi fruit sauce!

Shizuoka Matcha Tea Powder Mousse Cake and Kumquat Sorbet!

We just had enough space for the expresso, tea and mignardises!

Matcha Castella with azuki beans and yuzu macarons!

Before we left with Mr. Matsuki to interview Mr. Okamura in his ranch we had a small tour of the vegetables he grows for the pleasure of his customers!

Carefully nursed before being re-planted!

All lovingly cared for by Mr. Matsuki himself and his farm staff!

Onions!

The restaurant makes a very large use of leafy vegetables!

Broad beans!

I surely intend to come back soon and have a closer look at all the farm plots!

RESTAURANT BIO-S
419-0303 Fujinomiya Shi, Oshikakubo, 939-1
Tel.: 0544-67-0353
Fax: 0544-67-0098
Opening hours: 11:30~14:30, 17:00~20:00
Closed on Tuesday Night and whole Wednesdays
Reservations highly recommended!
Credit Cards OK
Parking for 8 cars
HOMEPAGE (Japanese)
Entirely non-smoking!

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美食, 蛍烏賊, 観光, 魚海の幸, Firefly squid, Gastronomes, Gastronomy, Hotaru Ika, Japan, Japanese Gastronomy, Shizuoka, Shizuoka Cuisine, squid, Tourism

Japanese Cuttlefish/Squid Species 5: Firefly Squid-Sparkling Enope Squid-Hotaru Ika-蛍烏賊

April 14, 2012 dragonlife 2 Comments

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Sparkling Enope Squid is a name difficult to remember and the translation of the Japanese name, Hotaru Ika/蛍烏賊 or Firefly Squid, certainly holds a better sound and is more adapted to reality.
It is also known as Matsui Ika in Toyama Prefecture.

The Sparkling Enope Squid is found in the Western Pacific ocean at depths of 600 to 1200 feet and exhibits bioluminescence. Each tentacle has an organ called a photophore, which produces light. By flashing these lights, the Sparkling Enope Squid can attract small fish to feed upon.

The Sparkling Enope Squid is the only species of cephalopod in which evidence of color vision has been found. While most cephalopods have only one visual pigment, firefly squid have three, along with a double-layered retina. These adaptations for color vision may have evolved to enable firefly squid to distinguish between ambient light and bioluminescence.

The Sparkling Enope Squid measures about 3 inches long at maturity and dies after one year of life.
The Sparkling Enope Squid can also light up its whole body to attract a mate. The mating season of the Sparkling Enope Squid lasts from March to June.

The fishing season lasts from Spring to Summer. The annual catch varies between 4,500 and 6,500 tonnes.